86subieXT

Adjust distributor timing back. If timing is good Meter the MAF Sensor. Meter the Thermoswitch sensor. check for any oil in intake pipes. Gap plugs down.

Im starting find alot of oil in the intercooler and even some spitting from the BPV. It's causing lots of missfiring and other problems. By my calculation i believe its coming from the turbo. Im posting this to get some info on rebuilding the stock turbo. My other option is to make a hybrid using another IHI VJ-11 turbo from a Mazda 626. mostly the same except for up pipe flange. Or a newer TD04 Whats my best option here?

When I do open it up and it misses I hear backfires from the exhaust. Klein really makes me thinks it's ignition not fuel related. But what I don't understand is why only at WOT.

Thought I had fixed the problem with the MAF and tps rebuild but it's back. The car feels likes and sounds like its missing at wot. Especially bad on the highway at 80-100 kmph. When I ease the pedal the car will excelerate but if I step on it I won't go anywhere. I have some what of an idea why this is happening but it dosent make much sense. Anyone have an idea of there own?

yes, 35-40psi. when it hesitates it feels like the car is missing. fuel pressure drops i let off, it comes back. fuel pump was replaced. problem still continues. Im guessing its not getting a proper reading from one the the MPFI components.

MAF cleaned out, TPS installed to specifications. no codes, but still struggles only upon wot.

yes, 4 wire were variable resistors. Ill check the adjustment upon re installation.

just pulled apart the TPS to clean and meter it. ive never seen a TPS like this before Here it is no throttle Here it is WOT And here is is everywhere in between How is this TPS only operating through continuity?

TPS is a likely candidate for this problem. I will test that competent tonight. Also plan on sweeping through the MAF and confirming proper readings to the FSM. Thanks for your input. very good forum here.

this problem happens every tank.

good info there for tuning. Now what can you tell me about hesitation under load? some sensor or operation is cutting out when the car is under load at operating temp.

Wow, sounds like you have a project on your hands. I personally am fighting to keep my ea82t engine running good. My intention is to tune it properly. Methanol injection forge boost controller and bps TMIC have been added. What do you recommend. [/img]

I was thinking what portion of the fuel injection system would cause that. MAF or TPS.

Those are all common things that ive checked or wouldnt apply since the problem is intermittent. Happens often at operating temps. runs better cold. Also worse with more load on the engine.

Yea i know. i could do it on a standalone but the whole purpose of the idea was to do it with a factory MPFI Well while i have your attention. does anyone know what causes loss of acceleration and hesitation? thermo switch was replaced, no codes at idle.

No one thinks there are any advantages to MAP?

Need a hand with an old EA82t that's past 100,000kms and starting to run into trouble. I had an idea to replace the older fappy paddle MAF for some newer MAP style technology. The subarus maf puts in 7 volts and reads the remaining resistance to calculate fuel tables. I may be wrong? Map work the same put off manifold pressure and less voltage. It would be nice to have the voltage from the MAF work with the 3v necessary for the MAP. The the 3v MAP sensor fry with 7v? or is there may be a 7v MAP sensor. i doubt it. What do you think is another alternative?

Hey, just read through this thread and have a few questions. sorry for bringing it back from the dead. I have an 88 XT 5 spd and want to put a EJ20t into it. Am i able to use the EA tranny? will it bolt up to the bell housing and crossmember?

sorry you confused my with that last paragraph. that diagram was from the service manual.

so now that i have the timing like in the picture, does my distributor need to be rotated 180*? i can barely move the thing its so stiff, let alone pull it off. i ordered a cap and rotor for it. it was looking a bit used. still thinking about the fuel pump and how it is linked to ignition timing.

I think its too late. going to set this car on fire. reset TDC and it ran excactly the same. re checked compression. going to get another cap and rotor. then set it a flame.

okay i lined the flywheel to the 0 to match it with line. In this picture it shows the right side to have the dot on the bottom right and the right side shows the dot to be upper left on my engine is opposite right now. right side is upper left left side is bottom right. does that make any sense? flywheel is off 180* or timing is.

Oh lovely, its seems whoever replaced the heads on this engine never installed the timing plate. i cant check timing with a timing light. ill have to reset engine to TDC and guess on dizzy placement. ive done it many times on honda's. whats the best way to get crankshaft to TDC on a flat 4?

I think you nailed the problem somewhere in there! when for a drive this morning with the new pump and the gauge and saw that the pressure would bounce constanlty up and down. while it was bogging. but iit wasnt bogging, i think it was actually missing. and if it missises and the dizzy controls the operation of the fuel pump then it was cause that pressure to vary like it was. Man, i hope that was a brainstorm moment. i guess i can get a timing light on it and see if its good. what is this nugget on the cap you speak of?

ill try a manual 12v source to the pump to make sure its not loosing any reading from the dizzy