sifu
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Posts posted by sifu
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such a great idea. I'd been thinking of a small spacer like this. I've read elsewhere that 5mm is max size spacer without needing new studs
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A friend of mine bought them, blew them out in under 10k miles and they never rode very well. I've had the same experience with Gabriels. For $100 more you can get a set of KYBs and they'll last 5x longer.
I'll second this- Bought a gabrial rear vs. a kyb rear on ebay just to see. The construction is clearly better on kyb. Also, the KYB is harder to compress and rebounds faster..if that makes a difference. Observing the difference from a top brand to a 2nd shelf strut, I would seriously hesitate going to the bargain bin struts. Besides, if you keep an eye out NOS KYBs can go for 40-70 on ebay. GL
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is that brownish?!? the world needs more brown imprezas lol right on nice rigs
It is brownish. It's Plasti Dip! The attempt was copper, as I'm from Arizona, the copper state. I'm thinking of putting a coat of gloss over it some time soon...
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Here is the new lifted subie with Forester XT 04 struts all around.
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yes, unfortunately she was totaled by a guest driver a few years back. Currently I'm riding a lifted 02 wrx.
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Oh, and in case anyone has similar problems, here is the much delayed update:
Well, figured I should update, even if it's months late.
Got all CELs off her for under a $50 bucks! BWAHAHHAHHA! Got a lot of help from you guys, and a little luck.
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Fixed code p0325 by replacing the knock sensor for 15 bucks on ebay.
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Fixed code p1400 with this http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2310341 ..I ended up running a new wire from the computer under passenger carpet to behind the charcoal box in the rear.
3- Fixed p420 (temporarily). The catalytic converter is bad, but I can still get it to go for 100 miles or so before it turns on again, and got it past emissions.
The 2 others were associated/repeated codes.
With the brakes done, it has been a super reliable ride for the old lady, and I think I'm going to tackle the rust and try to plasti dip it! Will update it. -
Thanks for the advice. I got the CELs off months ago, and this car has been AWESOME! Why should I be suprised? It's a subie
So now it's time for phase 2----(What Fubaru said)I'm in AZ. so, not too worried about rust spreading, and I've been told the car is safe. Going to fiberglass the holes, and paint over the car. Hope to add before and after pics.
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Aside from the picutred rust, and as naive as it might sound, rust doesn't look too bad under the carriage or behind the panels.
I will try to post some more pictures. I really don't want to drop the tank.
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That little bit of rust is nothing compared to what we deal with up north.
on the CEL codes - start with the first one, address that issue, then reset, see if any of the others come back. If they do, start again with the first code, and repeat until all codes stay cleared. It is not unusual for only 1 problem to throw multiple codes.
UPDATE:
Fought the rust to redo the brakes. Now to the CELs. I've been doing some research and so far addressed one code.
PO325- Knock Sensor ( I hopefully addressed this today)http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2204739
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I still have 3 to go. I noticed a hole in the gas tank. Fortunately, when you fill it up, the gas nozzle extends past the hole.
PO183- Fuel Temp Sensor
PO463-Fuel Level Sensor
PO1400-Fuel tank pressure control solenoid failure or short. I noticed there is a hole in the gas line. Fortunately, when you fill it up, the gas nozzle extends past the hole.
PO420-Cat or o2 sensor-Anyone want to weigh in on this?
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Thanks. Now it's let the DIY repairs commence. I need to burn through 5 CELs too. They can't be too bad. The car purrs like a kitten...I mean street cat.
I'll post up the progress.
On a humorous note, this girlfriend of mine is trying to learn to drive. She crashed my old 97 obs. So there is no doubt she is a horrible driver. Today, she cut a guy off(accidentally) and it wasn't that big of a deal, except Rambo with a nose ring flipped out, sped up on the shoulder, and rubbed the fender. Now the turn signal is hanging and the fender has a nice fat dent.
What a wongleflute.
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Good advice. I'll give that DIY rust repair job a go on top of the other things. I think she made out pretty well..She paid only $950...I hope there won't be any major problems that need to be uncovered.
That's a $2,500 - $3,500 vehicle.***qualifying statements coming$2,500 it would sell very quickly.
$3,500 it would sell over a longer period of time or right around early tax season when folks are temporarily rich and need a car immediately due to wrecking in the snow.
*** Areas matter - south east you're looking lower end, in Subaru rich areas you're looking at higher end or even surpassing $3,500...although a lot of the higher priced Subaru areas (Denver, Northwest) don't have rust so this one would stand out as a blemish.
Dealer prices can command higher prices, some of them smoke crack.
I see your concern, but I have a hard time calling that "ripped off" when the rust hole is that huge. Did anyone look at that car before purchase?
Rust repair - don't even bother doing it cheap, quick, or improperly, it'll return in a year or two and get worse. The metal needs cut out and replaced. At a body shop it's going to cost sick amounts of money - that would literally be like $1,000+ to repair at a shop properly....highly cost prohibitive.
If you can do it yourself and don't need a show room look - it's actually not too bad and costs little in materials/parts. More info and a picture of really bad one I did earlier this year (also a 99):
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/45485-rear-wheel-panel-rust.html
It's close to show the imperfections really well - i just cut it all out, welded in new metal, filled, painted with NAPA $20 paint, bought some online 2 stage clear coat for $20, quick and easy. I didn't worry about it being smooth or factory painting. So yeah it looks rough but it also doesn't look bad from a distance and it's done right at least. Car wasn't worth tons of time/money but it's worth not having rust again in a year.
I hate to say it bu the body metal, while annoying is just a sign of the underneath probably. It's not threatening or dangerous, but that rust is going to suck to work on, future jobs will have hte possibility of being a debacle - axle nuts, ball joints, tie rods, the strut top mount bolts are going to round off without careful attention - suspension bolts/nuts, timing cover bolts, all the hose clamps will never be reusable, they're just going to twist off, exhaust manifold nuts will never come off the studs - they are now bolts (but that's like every car, literally in the rust belt), brake caliper slide pins are likely to be rusty, none of the exhaust will be easy to work with and the front flange and maybe somewhere else is more than likely going to break at some point, those things do all the time.
you should go ahead and do the brakes right right now - get all new caliper hardware - slide pins, boots, and pad clips - they are always rusty and cause the pads to hang, just be done with it now and have the brakes be easy maintenance over the rest of the life of the car. Rockauto is a great source for cheap brake parts - almost doesn't make sense to skip that step.
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While out of state, my fiance purchased a 99 outback sport for xxxx. Since it runs, I told her to go for it at their crazy low asking price. Now I've seen it, I want to pass it on to the old pros here.
Vehicle is in AZ, was back East. I don't have a lot of experience with rust, but the car definitely does.
The question is:
How much is it worth knowing only the following:
Pros:
Starts up, runs clean. Everything works as it should.
Tires in good shape. Clean interior. Clean title, 2 owners.
Overall, looks like its in nice shape
Cons:
Needs break pads, possibly rotors.
Rust bucket (see pics)
Check engine light
185k miles.
I really got on here for advice on how bad the rust is (cosmetic, structural), what I should do to thoroughly check it out (pull up carpet? Anything easier?) ... what I should do to repair it (fiberglass/bondo or metalworker?)
I tried snapping the worst of the rust.
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Yes. Thanksfully the tires fit. They still sit a bit too close to the well, but no big deal on rubbing. I think I'm safe!
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I just got back from wrenching on a 99 forester at the yard. 3 hours later I'm comparing them to my 02 wrx hatchback. At best there is a 1mm difference in bolt spacing. It seems barely noticeable. I can post pictures later..
I figured I'd post on here for advice before moving forward or calling an audible. Anyone have any experience with this? The pictures from this link tell a different tale.
http://www.rs25.com/forums/f138/148612-diy-subaru-truck-3.html
What's going on?
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what car are you working on? I too am wondering if older outback legacy stuff goes with newer 02 impreza/ wrx stuff.
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I really like the way the lifted imprezas look. Besides being AWD, why don't more people lift / rally other cars?
For instance, an old 944 porsche can be had for 1500 bucks. Why not put a 2-3 inch lift with A/T tires on this hog? I think would be very cool. Anyone know the reason nobody is doing this?
check out the porsche rally 955.
But I can think of many cars that would look cool with some bigger tires and a subtle lift.
Thanks
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Thanks. I actually went with the $50 rustoleum paint job. I know it would turn out a lot better the second time around, but I'm not sure I will ever try to paint anything on my own again.
I had them mix a custom burnt orange.
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Yeah thanks. Pretty close. Forester 99 struts and springs.
205 70 15 tires
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good luck!
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whoa this looks awesome. Nice clean look
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My idiot ASIAN girlfriend rolled my beloved Subaru on the freeway. Liability only. Thank god she didn't kill us. Now I have a totaled 97 subaru outback impreza sport. looking at $200-300 to get it out of the yard. What should I do with it? I put some forester struts, new (1000 mile yoko 70 215 15) and outback stuff under the carriage to give it a few inches lift. Motor has 100000 miles.
The car was in my family and driven responsibly until it got rolled over twice. Now it's pretty totaled, I have some pics, thinking of going to the yard \ to decide what I should do.
Any advice?
Anything anyone can use? Let me know asap.
Thanks.
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yes, this is a good call. It most definitely requires a washer. But from my experience with and without one on the forester struts, it's more than just a minor rattle over a pothole...it sounds like the car will fall apart.
Adjustable trailing arms??
in Suspension
Posted
hey monstaru, how are those trailing arms holding up?