Padawan

Thanks for your reply! I'm at home now, eating dinner. I took som pics as mentioned, but i see now they're not that good. I'll use my first picture: The top an bottom ones are plugged, the middle one is currently going to the distributor. I have never done anything to this setup. It ran fine before with this setup too. I'll read myself up a little on the vacuum system components so i can make me more understood:o

I think i found the problem:/ The diaphragm in the vac advance was bad. I could suck right through it. Can I plug the output on the carb temporarely the see if it fixed my first problem? ( I will order a new vacuum advance unit of course) But I wonder why the engine accelerated fine w/o vac advance all the time i drove it this way. In my VW bug, the engine woldn't accelerate w/o vacuum advance. I've also taken some pics of the vac hose routing that I will upload as soon as i get home. ( no computer in my garage) F. ex. the hose to the vac advance is going from the second-from-top outlet on the front end of the carb through a pipe on the underside of the intake. I hope you understood that:D

We have strict emissions testing every 2nd year, but since my car doesn't have a catalythic converter, it might pass with a weber. Weber kits are easy to get here. Pic I took this morning:

The timing advance and the other connections on the carb are all connected. I dont remember how, but these 2 lines is the only ones that are plugged. If anyone could provide me a vacuum line schematic, it will be much appreciated:) I have read your weber swap guide, and I've considered it;) The car ran fine before, i haven't touched the carb setup since i bought it

My soob is one of few that is still not rusted around here:) But anyways i have checked the linkages and the all seem fine. But i have a spare carb laying around, so i could swap it if i dont find a vacuum leak.

I've sprayed alle the vac lines going off the intake and the carb where they connect or split, but i will check them more closely tomorrow, and the other things you mentioned. Thanks for your help! I revved the engine by turning the throttle on the carb, and I could feel that it went all the way back, but it would still stay at 2000rpm for a few seconds. O.T. i found 2 lines plugged with screws going off the front of the carb (towards the rad), they were all rotted, so i changed them, but it didnt do any difference. What did they do?

I've tried to find a vacuum leak today without luck:( I checked the throttle shaft for ply, but it was not loose, the shaft itself is not sticking, it returns as it should. I've also tried spaying it with carb cleaner to be sure. But the problem seems to be worse now, it can suddenly stay at 2000rpm for a good while, and then return to idle. The problem seems to be worse when the engine has warmed up:-\ I have the Haynes repair manual, but it does'nt contain a schematic for the vacuum system for the ea82, I'm shure it has been posted several times here, but I can't fint it. If anyone can provide me a link, it will be much appreciated:D

It's a non-turbo engine with about 110k miles on it. Thanks I'll check for leaks tomorrow:)

Hello I bought my first subie this fall, an -85 gl sedan, they're starting to get rare here in Norway because they have all rusted away. Anyways, recently it has developed a problem. When i rev it over 2000 rpm, it stays on 2000rpm for a second or two before it goes down again, the throttle cable is not sticking...