gsac132

I've got a 99 forester with a 2.5 sohc that started acting up. It started sputtering and popping while I was driving it and no codes showed up. When it does it I can mash the peddle to the floor and it takes off. So I guessed and put a new fuel pump in her, but the same condition is still present. Funny thing is it's idling fine and when you give it some throttle it responds. It's only when I'm driving at lower Rpm between 1500 and 3000.

I have a 2000 forester with a automatic transmission. I hear a loud clicking noise when I'm accelerating from a stop light and when I'm going up a hill. I jacked up the car to examine the drive train and discovered a bad wheel bearing on the driver side and a torn boot on the passenger side what concerns me is the clicking noise. It's coming from the axle where it attaches to the transmission. When I gripped the axle and turned it I could feel it clicking has anyone had a similar issue. I was also wondering should I replace he axle with used or new axle I seen OEM where over 300 apiece. Any advice?

I've replaced my 1999 foresters bearings and my 2000 forester I got bearings with seals from eBay for 80-100bucks but I did all the work myself I only did the one that was making the noise. They are a split bearing or a 2 piece bearing there's lots of great videos on you tube just do a search. Also an easy way to tell what's going on with your fantom noises is jack up one side of your car get the wheels of the ground grab the wheel and see if you can move it side to side a bad bearing will cause your wheel to move side to side and cause a clunking and a humming noise. Some machine shops in your area could or should be able to disassemble the bearings and seals and press it all back together for less than 75-100bucks there's 3 seals that go in the hub and the new bearing needs to be packed with bearing grease most reasons for new bearings failing is that they are not properly packed with grease when being assembled and it causes premature bearing failure and you stuck doing it again I've done both front and back wheels the back is way more difficult because I've never been able to remove the long lateral link bolt I've had to cut the bolt with a saws all and replace the bushings the bolt runs about 22 bucks and the 2 bushings cost 30 bucks each I'm sorry to here of your trouble I sympathize with you but I've got a lot of experience with this repair

Are you losing coolant out of the overflow? Or is it filling up to the bottle

Are you losing coolant out of the overflow? Or is it filling up to the bottle

I have a 99 Subaru Forester and I've noticed a squealing noise from the tank. I am sure it's the fuel pump, my question is about replacement should I get a Subaru pump or are aftermarket pumps ok. How difficult is taking the tank down? And is there anything I should know before taking on the repair myself?

sorry dude i saw the exact same thing on my 2000 forerster 2.5 turned out to be bad head gaske. does the overflow tank keep filling up to the top too because mine did

i know thats the easiest but i cant find any junk yards around that have them

ok thats a mistake that ive made i torqued it on the ground

ok everybody,lets see if we cant puit this failure to bed,ive replaced my wheel bearing twice and it seems as though its about to fail again.So rather than blame subaru or the bearing manufacturer im going to blame myself due to ignorance on my part. so question number 1 is about the seals. there are 3 seals the one seal is obvious.i know it goes on the inner cv shaft side aginst the shoulder then there's another seal it will fit on either side when i first did the job due to a bad bearing there was a seal on the hub.but that same seal will fit on the cv side or the inner end on top of the first seal of the hub.there is also what looks like a dust seal so which side does it go on question number 2.ive also read the torque on the cv shaft nut has a range of 135-165 ft lbs. what is the recommened torque. im thinking one of these two reasons can be causing the failure. I,m driving a 99 forester.

I'm a novice never done anything on airbag systems before is there any way to access a video or some kind of manual that shows a procedure to do this repair

Recently our 99 forester lost the horn before that the cruise stopped working and prior to that the air bag light came on. Could this be connected to a bad clock spring and if so how hard is it to change?

My 99 subaru forester has a air bag light on is this a stealership trip or is there a way to diagnosis it

I went back inthere and replaced the seals and no more leaks as of now,timing belt was done 40,000 ago so i left it alone looked to be in good condition i now have a p0420 code to diagnose

do you think trying seafoam is worth a shot

do you think both cats or just the one

i have just finished rebuilding and installing new heads on my 99 forester s.o.h.c 2.5 because it had a bad miss after a timing belt change found 4 bent exhaust valves the car ran with these 4 bent valves for 40,000 plus miles.After the job was finshed the car ran like new,then 3-4 days later the C.E.L. comes on.So off to the parts store to use there scanner to check the code its p0420 catalytic converter below threshold bank 1 the same side of the engine i had the 4 bent valves.Ive read so much about this code its makin me crazy Id like to start simple and move my way foward to fix it hoping i didnt ruin the converter driving the car that long with the engine misfiring and after a lot of money into rebuilding the heads i dont want to ruin anything else by ignoring the code other than the code it runs great but i think the gas mileage could be better

My 99 forester just had head gaskets replaced and now there's an oil leak coming from the crankshaft seal on the front of the engine.How difficult is this to change and what other things should I be looking for?its a 2.5 s.o.h.c engine

My 99 forester just had head gaskets replaced and now there's an oil leak coming from the crankshaft seal on the front of the engine.How difficult is this to change and what other things should I be looking for?its a 2.5 s.o.h.c engine

I have a 99 subaru forester sohc 2.5l the heads need rebuilt or replaced ive been assigned the task of running them down because he cant find them when incall ed some of the online cylinder head shops they bsay they need a casting number.Does anyone know where its located.also ive been told that the right cylinder head is known for cracking any one else here that.also what all shiould be done to the engine before reinstalliung it i would love to here from some experts that have done this repair before

Yes it powered up

I just purchased my second Suby.It has a check engine light on and when I went to pull the code the scanner could not communicate with the scanner,What's the best way to address this issue,should I wire a new plug on it?I really don't know what to do I never had one that didn't work.what would you do?

My 99 forester is wearing out the inside tread on both wheels.I just got back from a repair shop that told me that my steering components look ok (inner/outer tie rods and ball joints)he mentioned that there is not much adjustment for camber problems and said might be time for some new springs and struts.does anyone agree with him or do you think that there might be another issue causing the tire wear

i was under the impression that the universal was not able to be removed that the end piece was a machined piece.i know that you could just cut it off(bad u joint) and weld the good one on and rebalance it.i just wonder if its just cheaper and easier to get a used one.i spoke with a drive shaft shop and was told he could not get a new u joint that thety stopped making them in 1996