ststephen

Ok, well I got it, the pin was a "zig-zag" style pin and apparently it BROKE in there. I was able to get most of it out with the diagonal cutters as Skip said. From there I got the tranny stub out (which still had some pin in it). Then I got the rest of th pin...whew. Now, should I put the stub in the tranny then whack the pin in, or should I put the pin in first? Thanks!

MAN! I cannot beleive how hard this pin is to get out. I have the axle on my workbench, just taking HORRIFIC size blows to it and it hasn't moved for a while. I cannot imagine this is normal.

I found that a size 6 metric bolt is the perfect diameter, however, I bend them after a few millimeters of movement. Guess I will just buy a bunch of them. Thanks!

Ok, got the new axle and it did NOT come with the tranny stub, so I still need to get the spring pin out, and I am having troubles with that. It is 2/3 of the way out and I cannot get it to go any further. The hole apears to be 15/64", just under a 1/4". So I have tried using a 1/4" bolt and many other items of that size to push out the old pin, but no luck. GEEZ! This is a bummer, the punches I have all are bottomed out at his point. HELP!

I am NOT for sure on this, but sounds like one of your rotors is warped. This would cause the unusual wear you mention (and the heat) and would be due to the heat damage they mentioned. I would do new rotors and new pads. Does the car shimmy when braking? This is another tell-tale sign of a warped rotor.

There is a big hole in the tranny! No really it appears that as I took somethin out that I did need to.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=1054&sort=7&size=medium&cat=500&page=1 This picture shows a short stubby thing coming out of the tranny, my short stubby thing came out with my axle. Any help appreciated! Thanks again! My karma owes...

OMG! ROTFLMAO! Ok, so I have been trying to get the pin all the way out, so after your post Skip, I went and pulled the axle out. Now, do I need to keep that pin? Any other parts I need to keep? Thanks a bunch everybody!

Cool, got it! Thanks! Another problem..... Okay, the outer part of the drive axle is out, now for the inner. I wish I would have thought to make the spring pin more accessable as it is in the worst possible position. Any ideas on getting the spring pin in a better position? I guess if the car were in neutral and both wheels of the ground, I could spin the axle? True or false? Thanks again!

Ok, I am changing out the halfshaft (driver's side) on my 92 Legacy. I got the axle nut off no problem. Then I loosened the castle nut on the steering (tie-rod) knuckle but left the nut on as Haynes said. Used a puller (or whatever that thing is called) to separate the joint from the knuckle. Now the trouble starts...I went to take the castle nut off and it wont come off, the "bolt" it is on spins but the castle nut does not. ANY ideas? Thanks a bunch!

Well, I have no idea why the change happened, but as far as coolers go, I use big ones and I don't tow anything. These say they don't overcool (and I have heard that overcooling is a BIT of a myth). http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=MDITP&Category_Code=Coolers Hust my $0.02

For each 10 degrees (F) you lower your ATF temp, you about double the life of your tranny. I put auxil. tranny coolers on all my cars...$50 is sure cheap vs. a new tranny. Just my recommendation....

Ok, I am going to give it a stab this weekend as both of my other cars are running now! I have a 24" breaker bar and the 36mm socket from working on my VeeDub. I also have a large torque wrench so I should be set. Oh, yes, and since I am married, I have patience. Thanks all! Also got the Subaru Legacy Haynes Manual today...but I don't think I will remove as much as they say I should!

Well, that was sure a mixed bag! Well, anyway, I do have the 36mm socket, a breaker bar and a good torque wrench. I may just try it as the sound annoys me when turning. Thanks all! Any other hints?

Well, that is all I needed, was a little encouragement! Thanks all! And jclay: I know what you are talking about, I had the same thing with a 73 VW Superbeetle, I messed with it for hours, but finally got the sucker to break. When in doubt, buy some pipe and make a cheater bar. That is what we finally did....Any idea on the size of the castle nut? Thanks!

Ok, the driver side CV on my 92 Legacy is going, not gone yet. Has anybaody done the replacement themselves? My Subaru guy only charges about $200 to do the work, but since money is tight, I tought I would see how easy or difficult this repair is. I have looked at the manuals and I am guessing it is a bit out of my league, but maybe not. Thanks, Take care....