dickdirty

switched mains to 130/140 because that was the smallest they had at baxters still dieseling, gonna try to tweak the carb around with the smaller jets and see what happens

new wagon, it's a little green but it has a/c!!

some cool r2 pics here http://ninjagarage.blogspot.com/search/label/SUBARU?updated-max=2011-04-09T00:02:00%2B09:00&max-results=20&start=20&by-date=false

there is actually no black smoke. just really bad gas mileage

the jets are way to big main jets were 179/225

i figured it was a jet problem, not exactly sure what size is in there but i have a feeling they are too big. my mpg has gone down significantly from 23ish to about 12. if i rejet it do i need to replace the main jets idle jets air corrector jets and emulsion tubes? if i pull the jets out is there a way to tell what size they are currently?

not sure how old the pump is but i did a valve adjustment about a month or two ago

i have the timing at 9 right now, and it's still dieseling (it usually runs forward for a few revolutions then goes backwards till it shuts itself off) running some seafoam through it right now. starting to get really frustrated because i feel like i have pretty much adjusted everything also my oil light is starting to flicker while it's idling (wondering it the engine running backwards is messing up my oil pump)

ok i seemed to have got the thing running smoothly, but i am still getting backwards engine run on at shutoff

My friend gave me a motorcraft/holley/weber 5200 (basically a weber carb made by holley) and so I rebuilt it and thought I'd try it on my 78 wagon. When I originally put it on the carb at full throttle would flood the engine especially when cold and I was getting engine run on/ dieseling. And it is actually dieseling backwards. I adjusted the float and got it to run leaner and it's not flooding anymore, running pretty good actually except for now I am getting some intake backfire which stops once warmed up and it is still dieseling. My timing is at 12 right now I need help! this is my first time working with a carbon and I have no idea what i'm doing

loooking for... ignition lock cylinder with key and bezel blue drivers seat (just the butt) drivers side chrome rocker trim blue stage 2 dash with no cracks 1 drivers rear black door panel or all 4 blue lower door panels

i just stacked 6 nickels together as a .5 inch spacer and i have about .25 inch clearance on back and front.

ok i seriously just slammed my palm into my forehead as i just read the sticker on the hood of my car 8 degrees plus or minus 2, disconnect the vacuum hoses going into the distributor before timing it with this timing now i am getting even less top end power and it's backfiring when i step on it in third. fml.

Does that mean I just press the popcorn button? It always burns when I do that.

Intake is .010 Exhaust is .014 I just used a ratchet to slowly turn the motor to adjust each one after I stared at the order they were going in for a few revolutions I quickly realized the inner ones were exhaust Car is running way smother since the adjustment but I finally got a timing light on it and realized it was at 20 not sure what the timing is supposed to be set at but I slowed it down to 8and now its running like crap. Like it gets really bogged down when the secondaries open up. Still need to make sure the mechanical timing advance is working and maybe gap my points

TThey don't clear in the back either but I think if I got a half inch spacer it might work. Came across these on ebay and it looks like I might not even have to drill tthem http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-WHEEL-SPACERS-1-2-FOR-FORD-DODGE-5X5-5-OR-6-LUG-TOYOTA-CHEVY-6X5-5-TRUCK-XL-/140824659359?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20c9cdc59f&vxp=mtr#ht_1867wt_1397

Before I got the timing light I just fudged around with the distributor till it was running good, now months later when I hit it with the timing light it said it was at 22 degrees so I retarded it down to 8 degrees and now it is running like crap. What is the factory timing for the ea71

thanks

which valves are the intake and which are the exhaust?

yeah i just tried to put the front one on and it was fine with the parking brake engaged but as soon as i took it off the mechanism for the parking brake cable was barely scraping against the inner lip of the wheel. i think i can space it or maybe try to bend the arm that holds the cable for the parking brake. haven't tried the back ones yet

thanks buddy

the wheels don't have tires on them right now and i was more concerned about the tire rubbing. the wheels are wider than my current steel wheels as well. i was going to get new tires for these alloys but if it is futile i won't bother

by old wagon i meant gen 1, this is what the old thread says... "these will fit any 4 lug subaru 1980 and up to 1994. they however will not fit on 70s subes without rubbing."

just got a set of these. one of the center caps is missing which is annoying. i came across this old thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=57832 and read that the wheels will not fit on the old wagons... wondering if this is a problem that can be remedied, or am i out of luck?

i want it. http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/3146690090.html