JohnVT

right - so why build an obvious (to the designer) place for salt to sit in such a critical spot (fuel) that isn't so obvious to the user until it's too late? just wondering but back to my question, should I buy just the pipe? will I need to replace more than that? how much will the parts cost? thanks!!

It looks pretty easy to keep clean once you know that it needs to be cleaned - just a water hose into the top of the shield in the right rear wheel well. Of course, if the damage is already done...

How common is this leak? I discovered a little puddle of gas this morning near the right rear wheel, and noticed the pipe appears to have rusted under the "PROTECTIVE" shield, which was full of dirt and probably salt - 6+ winters in Vermont! Didn't notice this spot that should have been cleaned regularly! This is a really bad design, especially for the "salt belt". Is this usually just the filler tube replacement? or do I probably need more parts? How much do they cost? Appears to be available at the dealer only? thanks for help and advice! John

Hi - on my 97 Legacy Outback the OBDII connector is behind a cover low in the dashboard, below the steering wheel, near the driver's door. This is a US car, but should be in the same place if Subaru equipped all cars with this diagnostic plug... good luck

Hi - just to ask for clarification? 97 OBW 130K miles. Just changed knock sensor (solved that code a couple of months ago), new NGK plugs, new wires, new ignition coil, new PCV valve, new fuel filter, new air filter. Has been running rough again, about two months since all of that. Today, with a cold engine, headed immediately to the interstate, and got a flashing CEL, rough running, then steady. Code is P0302. When I get home I'll check the plugs, wires again... Should I swap them around? Can the O2 sensor cause this, without throwing its own code? What else should I look at? THANKS.

so I've changed the PCV, air and fuel filters, plugs, wires, ignition coil - and cleaned the intake twice with sea foam. but the car is still missing some, when warm and doing a slight climb, usually in 5th. sometimes downshifting helps, but not always. guess I should change the O2 sensor? anything else. I have checked vacuum hoses, don't see anything there. thanks

see http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23344 I used the vacuum port at the bottom of the throttle body, just above the intake manifold. Just stuck a hose in the can and sucked in some... Seemed to work; my wife's been using the car today and says it's much better. NOW, I just need to take the front off again and change the oil pump o-ring, and change the struts!!

thanks. I sucked in about a third, but let it run. Lots of smoke, but realized I should have let it sit. SO did it again, and let it sit 5 minutes. Still lots of smoke, so hopefully did some good! Put the rest in the tank. Will see what happens when my wife uses it today!! (and maybe buy another can for my old Saabs! - but that would probably make the oil leaks worse...)

thanks - this is the first time I noticed someone say to put the Seafoam in the fuel tank. Others have mentioned using a vacuum line - a ported line on the throttle body, or a vacuum line at the top of the intake manifold (just under the throttle body). Is one method better? Should I do both? Is there a consensus??!!

hello, this time it's a P0302 "Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected". We also bought some Seafoam. Any other diagnostic help would be greatly appreciated! thanks, John

Hello - not sure if this is a new or related problem!! 2 months since this thread, and now the CEL came back on! Going to get the code at lunch today, but have a couple of observations/questions. Last week the car seemed to miss some on hills, but when we turned the A/C off that stopped, and since it's late in the summer, I just let it go. This weekend, when we left my father-in-law alone with the car!, he said it 'jumped suddenly, somewhat violently', and the CEL came back on. He tried to reset it (by pulling the battery) but it won't reset. Which is good, I'll go get the code now. Can a seizing A/C compressor cause this? Didn't hear any belts squeal. Any hints before I come back with the code? thanks, John

ok - I thought the ad is just a play on 'leaving the competition in the dust'?? and I do like the music. but if it DOES bring images of something worse to some people, that's not good. Of course, every ad may remind SOMEBODY of something it shouldn't. that being said, the car, and the others in this class, do not seem to be practical. If it's marketed to YOUNG growing families, then perhaps you can fit kids in it until they are 3 feet tall?? And someone mentioned you can't fit a car seat in the middle of the second seat, and still fold down the back to access the third seat. my father in law has a OBW, and really wanted to get a B9 based on pre-availability ads he saw. So he went to the dealer in the first week they had one on the lot, and immediately decided to not get one - based on SPACE and the automatic tranny. We simply can't FIT in the two back seats. My youngest is 13, and growing, and the rest of us are 'average size' adults... Guess we're NOT the target audience. SO, if we want to all (seven of us) go someplace in one vehicle, it's a minivan.

and don't forget the oil pump seals, they often leak more than the cam seals, (and maybe the oil pump too) while you've got it apart.

on my 97 OBW, I ended up moving the clutch cylinder and throttle body to reach putting the new one in. Perhaps even that isn't necessary if you use a magnet in a socket with a long extension. It's just hard to see under the intake manifold and several wires running there... Also, it wasn't obvious to me, but the clip to disconnect the wire connector is on the opposite side of the connector than I was looking! It's easy to remove once you find it! (I don't remember exactly what it looks like, or I would give a better description.) And, as mentioned in other threads, don't tighten the bolt too much. I think the spec is 16 inch-pounds.

Finally changed the knock sensor Saturday. AND the CEL has been off all weekend! and the car is not missing anymore, at least noticeably. Of course, at 124K changing wires, coil, etc. wasn't a bad idea, but this did teach me to go read the code FIRST!! Now I've read on this board that the O2 sensor(s) can get 'lazy'?? Don't think I want to go tell father-in-law he needs to spend another $100-200 on parts yet! thanks for all the help.

I finally got the code at Advance Auto Parts. It's a P0325. Since I've changed plugs, wires, coil, fuel filter, air filter - it's time to change the knock sensor. Thanks for all the help.

Thanks - I found it! And when I call it IAC and look in Haynes, I find a lot there too!! Looks like that's working. Off to Auto Zone (finally) for codes and NGK plugs. (gee, I was on Oahu last October. It's as hot in VT right now as it was there then, but I want to go back...)

thanks for your help. Can you be more specific about which is the AIC?

thanks. The engine is still missing, although according to my wife, who drives it the most, it's not consistent. I'm just wondering what else can cause missing. I will change the plugs this weekend, BUT I bought Bosch Platinums for it, and now am wondering if that's a good idea. I've seen opinions that I shouldn't use them...? And the clerk at the auto parts store where I bought the plug wires and ignition coil said it's a BIG mistake to use Bosch, but he didn't have the NGKs he said I should use. I don't know what brand plugs are in it now, but my father-in-law insists he changed them when we replaced the timing belt a few months ago (ok, just BEFORE winter in VT!).

I (well, my father in law) have a 97 OBW with 125000 miles. The Check Engine Light came on last week, so we changed the air filter (looked like it's been a while), fuel filter (never changed before), and PCV valve (also never changed). This didn't change the CEL, so I changed the plug wires, and finally today the ignition coil. The plugs were changed a few months ago. What else can cause this engine (phase i 2.5), to misfire? Are Bosch Platinum bad for this engine?

although left rear strut appears ok, that is it bounces, then stops, it SOUNDS like it has a leak, and when it's below freezing, apparently this strut freezes - and this week it's staying below zero in Vermont! So the back seat passengers are very uncomfortable, and roads have lots of potholes from plows, and frost heaves. I want to do this myself, is the only special tool I need a spring compressor? If I do go to a mechanic, how much should I expect to pay to do the rears? or all four? I called Sears, since I don't have an indoor place to work, and they quoted $730 for all four, including alignment. This seems really high... This is a 97 OBW with almost 120K miles