JohnVT
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Good deal?
JohnVT replied to edvanp's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Replace the timing belt tensioner right away if it wasn't done with the belt change. -
The ignition coil I purchased from an aftermarket auto parts store has the same manufacturer and part number as the original that was on the car, and seems to be working fine. I had problems with aftermarket spark plug wires and spark plugs - use Subaru OEM wires from the dealer (also some online sources, search these fora) and NGK spark plugs. Good luck.
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Hi - will check fuel, ignition, compression after the snowstorm tomorrow... (didn't get to do that yet, 2 feet of snow to clean up) If I have to pull valves, does anyone know a good machine shop in the Burlington, Vermont area? How much to machine heads, valves, replace valves?? can someone point me to a good procedure to check, change valves, and while I'm there, probably the headgaskets... OR if I decide to have this done, how much to replace valves, what else needs to be done. Has new t-belt, sprockets, water pump, oil seals, ... What should that cost?? Any experience to share with mechanics in this part of Vermont?? 97OBW 2.5 DOHC - EJ25 thanks
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ok, how do I check the compression with no start? I have a compression guage, but I think it needs to be running? what do I need? I thought it was turning ok, so changed everything ($$$$$$$) as I described before, but now still whining when trying to start, and no ignition. but did sound like a backfire, so now of course, sounds like a bad valve. so is this a pull it out? guess I'll pull the HG too now... and the ECU has been complaining about the rear O2 sensor for a while too... hope that didn't mask something else. thanks.
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Too much oil?
JohnVT replied to mtbe's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Right - ALWAYS check the oil immediately after an oil change. It's just as likely to have no oil as too much. A friend lost an engine at a 'fast-lube' joint with no oil. Shop blamed it on the auto fill mechanism. He eventually got something out of them, but it was painful. -
thanks - got everything except the water pump from the dealer, at list. wouldn't do better, but it's here, and I need to finish today. and these parts aren't available from other sources around here. how risky is it to leave the original water pump in at 150K? I can get a new one from an aftermarket auto parts store, but don't know the quality... what is the failure mechanism? Leak coolant (bearings), or worse - tear up the t-belt? John
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I took the front off today (weather was sunny and 30F!!). The belt and pulleys look new. The belt was changed at 90K, 60K ago. The top right cam was about 4-5 teeth out of time with everything else. Everything else was lined up. I think the tensioner went out, but it looks like I was very lucky. SO - I could change the belt, tensioner and tension pulley, and the oil seals (again, there's still some seapage). BUT at 150K miles even though everything still looks new and firm, I guess I shouldn't take a chance of putting it back together with old parts... My local dealer will sell me parts at LIST for about $700. He doesn't have the water pump in stock... For the reasons as stated here many times, I could buy from other auto parts stores, but am very wary of that now. SO I guess I'll get everything but the water pump and put it all back together tomorrow. Fingers crossed, but I think this is lowest risk. Since it died on a busy street my wife really would prefer that that doesn't happen again!! So, new exhaust, another new timing belt et al, and it needs at least one O2 sensor... hope it lasts now. John
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Thanks Skip - I did change the t-belt at 90K. Used a chain wrench on the crank pulley with the old belt to protect the pulley. I used the engine in gear (5-speed) to tighten the bolt to 125. I'm not sure which method I'll use this time. The chain wrench scared me a little, thought it would be too easy to mess up the pulley, but it did work. But then, the kamikaze method sounds more dangerous to me. Of course, it's cold here, and the garage still needs some work to get the car inside... guess I wasn't prepared for a major problem in the winter! Supposed to get above freezing by next weekend though - HEAT WAVE! SO, I'll patch up some rust holes in my 85 Saab so I can get it inspected Monday so at least I'll get another car on the road soon. (Been putting that off til warmer weather too, since I missed my chance in the fall...) Gee I need a new car..................