Daskuppler

I completely replaced all of the grounds (wire and ends) for all of the grounds I could find in the engine bay. So far, so good. The windows seem to be moving a little quicker as well.

I'm hoping it's something more simple and not damage I caused when replacing the HVAC box and had the dash out. I did find some more corrosion on another ground, so I'll get that replaced along with the other wires in the big kit.

I ordered some wire and terminals for the big three mod to see if that helps a little as well.

I went to start the car this morning and got a couple dim and blinking lights on the dash. No cabin lights and the car wouldn't start. Battery is charged and it drove fine yesterday

Any idea if it can be metered to see if it's bad in some capacity? I'll look into it further and see what I can figure out.

So about a year a go, I replaced the main ground contact on the block under the air box. It was green, no copper insight. I cut it back to fresh copper, put a new end on it, and called it good. At the same time, I replaced the battery with a new AGM. I had no further issues until today. The radio started flickering again. I also noticed that my key no longer stays in the ignition when the car is running. It's old and this isn't my only car with this "issue". My question is, could this be an issue in the ignition switch since the dash/radio/clock all flicker periodically? I guess I'll continue chasing grounds down...Any other suggestions?

They are the original bushings. The car has been in Colorado it's entire life so it's not super rusty, but that's a good thing to note. How do you fix it if the nut does break?

Hello Everyone, I have a 2002 Impreza TS with some leaky front lower rear control arm bushings (the oil/grease filled ones). They've been leaking for a while and are starting to get some play in them so it's time to replace them. The stealership said they are $190 each. The auto parts stores don't carry them, unless it is Napa. Napa wants $120 each. I also have a used pair of complete control arms with bushings for $60 per side. Mileage is unknown. Reportedly in good condition. They are at a dedicated Subaru recycler. Rock auto sells the delphi ones for about $35. Are the Delphi ones worth buying? Would it be between to just get new control arms with new bushings? Thanks for any input!

Hello Everyone, I'm looking to install some Diode Dynamic SS3 Pro lights on a 2014 Forester Premium. My understanding is that the car is prewired for the lights, but some additional equipment is required. All of the other threads I've found have links to directions and parts kits but the links are all broken. The Diode Dynamic pods come with an adapter for the harness, Do I need a relay for this circuit, or is it already installed? Is there a factory switch, or do I need one as well? can I modify the corner inserts where the lights go, or do I need to purchase the XT inserts? I already have a light bar and would like to limit the amount of switches on the dash. Can I install the 2014 Forester XT column switch for fog light control, or do I need to add the auxiliary switch next to the traction control switch? Thanks!

I read a few reviews of people stating they were somewhat unstable at speeds over 80mph.This makes sense given the lack of a center rib, but it's hard to say how accurate it is. I was previously running the Continental True Contact Tour AS. It was my 3rd set. Michelin is certainly well known for making a quality tire. They seem to be geared towards relaxed drivers with safety in mind first. I saw a lot of reviews stating the CC2 understeers a lot, which I;m not a huge fan of. The car is already way too biased to understeer. Road tests also show problems with the tire changing direction in emergency maneuvers. The first turn is fine, but the second is very slow to respond. I ended up going with the Continental CrossContact LX25. The snow traction is a little less, but the Continental Warranty Department said they have only one complaint on the tire and that it should hold up relatively well on gravel roads. The LX25 is an improvement over the TrueContact with a new rendition of the tread compound, and added features to enhance snow traction. It also outperformed the original Cross Climate in snow traction so I'm happy with that as an all season. We'll see how things go. With my mileage warranty and some sweet talking with the manager, I was out the door for just under $700. Michelin was hesitant to say the CC2 could be used on gravel roads, but said it should do okay with light and infrequent use. If you're not familiar with the Continental, here is a link for reference: https://continentaltire.com/tires/crosscontact-lx25

Someone recommended the Cooper Enduramax on another site. Looks to be a good alternative. Tough casing, designed for gravel roads and light offroading with an all season tread and 60,000 mile warranty. Anyone have any firsthand accounts in the snow?

Hello Everyone, I have a 2014 Forester and have been happy with my tire choice lately, but I only got 26,000 miles out of the current set of Continental True Contacts. The tire shop recommended an all weather tire, specifically the Michellin Climate Cross 2. They said they see on average 60,000 miles out of a set which is fine. My concern is the softer tread compound not handling dirt roads and/or light offroading very well. I swear I read somewhere that they chunk easily on anything but pavement. Anyone have any experience with these or other tires in the same class?

Battery, starter, and alternator were tested and all were fine except reserve capacity in the battery. CCA and voltage were fine. Car had been sitting about a week and driven for about 20 minutes prior to the test.

Grounds in the engine bay were good, battery terminals tight, and alternator tested good.

I'll check it the CS wiring, it was likely unplugged when I did the head gaskets a while ago, maybe it didn't get quite plugged in. The battery is good, it's a red top Optima and only a few years old. I'll check the grounds, hopefully it's something that simple. I've not had an issue since, not even the radio which was pretty consistent beforehand.