Daskuppler

Well, I have everything torn apart, heads come off tomorrow and head to the shop on Friday. Hopefully they don't find anything wrong and it's quick. Everything looks good so far, but Ic an't see real well with the heads still in the car. Is there anything I can do to help prevent this from happening again? Is there a better gasket than Fel-Pro MLS? I have had the studs suggested a couple times, I don't want to have to pull the engine in order to put them in and do this repair down the road. Also, do i need to replace the intake, exhaust, and throttle body gaskets again? I did them last time (about 15k ago)

I'm going to be taking the heads to a shop to be resurface and checked out as soon as I get the cash to pay for it and the time to disassemble. I'll post up what I find... I'll definitely look into that. The ones I used were about $60 per side.

I used new bolts on both sides. However, on one side I did reuse the bolts after setting a gasket that was defective. The car was never driven on them though. Only cranked once so they were technically still new. The main issue has been on the other gasket though.

All this can happen several thousand miles after the fact? Either way, they definitely seem to be bad.

My wife was behind me while starting it today and said it was blowing large amounts of white smoke while it was trying to start and after it started, then it cleared up. So it looks like it's a bad head gasket...What would cause a premature failure? I did them about 15k ago...

I have checked for the bubbles in the overflow and found absolutely nothing. I have noticed that when I put in the new plugs the car cranked right away the first time. The same went for when I cleaned the MAP sensor and reset the ECU. And then the next time it was started it had an issue. I have noticed no white smoke, but I am no expert in what burning coolant looks like. I have noticed the exhaust smells absolutely terrible. I wouldn't say it is "sweet" though. Nor does it have the sulfur smell I have heard can be caused by raw fuel being dumped on a cold catalytic converter. I don't remember it every smelling quite this bad in the past though. The car runs flawlessly once the rough idle clears up for the first start. No loss of power, MPG seems to be the same....The upper radiator hose seems to be under quite a lot of pressure, even after the car has cooled down overnight. So much to the point it will spew coolant if the cap is popped while the engine has sat overnight.

This is possible. I did have to pull the timing belt a little while ago to replace the water pump. Though the issue was happening prior to doing so. I'll check it this weekend. I did replace the plugs, wires and ignition coil. i checked the air filter and it was clean. The fuel filter has not been changed recently.

Update. The car seems to be having issues starting again, though it has never failed to start. It now will start fairly easily, runs a little rough though better, and then the rpms remain unstable. They seem to fluctuate between 1200-1700. I have not let the car warm up recently or driven it anywhere due to a fear of it not starting when I need to return home.No codes right now...

I purchased a BWD/Intermotor. i generally go with Beck/Arnley but in this particular instance they got terrible reviews and were burning out in a couple months. This one was more expensive and feels of very high quality. Time will tell. I replaced it and the car still would not start. I noticed the plugs were soaked in fuel after attempting to start the car so I assumed there was no spark in the cylinder...Since everything else was new I purchased new plugs and it started right up. we'll see how things go from here.

The overheating/loss of heat I believe was caused by the leaking water pump and a bad thermostat. Both have been replaced and I believe I finally got all the air out of the system. Hopefully there will be no further issues on that front... I did not find any vacuum leaks, though it's not impossible. I purchased a new Ignition Coil today to see if that fixes the problem. Hopefully it will. I had a friend suggest it could be a cam position sensor or crank shaft position sensor. Seems like either one of these would throw a code if it were defective...Maybe not though

Hello Everyone, this has been an ongoing issue, I've been working on it at NASIOC but not getting too far with it so I thought I would try another forum. I drive a 2002 Impreza TS. Over the past 2 months, it has been misfiring when starting. It clears up on it's own ater about 10 seconds and only does it when it's cold. Runs like a champ otherwise. Things I have done so far: Checked the plugs Replaced the wires (two wires had very high resistance (cylinders 3 and 4) cyclinder 2 was above spec but not overly high, cylinder 1 was within spec. Cleaned the IACV Metered the Ignition Coil (input pins 1 and 2 had high resistance, around 2mohms, all other combinations were open) Output 3 and 4 metered approximately 13.6kohms while 1/2 metered 12.5kohms) Checked for a leaking injector (did so by letting the car sit and pulling the plugs to check for the presence of moisture/smell) Exhaust for smoke/smell (smells bad, but does not emit white or blueish smoke nor does it smell sweet) The misfire has been isolated to cylinder 3 and 4. Only one at a time. Codes thrown have been p0304, p0303, and p0420. The 0420 popped up with the 0304. The car ahs also been having issues with the heat going in and out and overheating. I believe this is all under control now and is not of primary concern. That said, On Saturday the car overheated and boiled over. The following morning, it would not start. I reset the ECU and it started up fine. Ran well all day and started this morning. Now, it will not start again. It cranks and attempts to turn over but never quite makes it...It backfires every now and then....I'm leaning towards an ignition coil, but I'm not entirely sure and I don't want to throw $150 at it if that's not the problem. The headgaskets were replaced about 12000 miles ago and the car has 77k on it. Thank you

I typically run Amsoil but work's been slow and I needed to change it all immediately. It was jet black when I drained it and there was a huge snow storm coming (we got 18"). I'll probably change it again this summer and throw the Amsoil Severe Gear 75w-140 in there and switch the engine over to Amsoil as well.

Hey guys! Thanks for all the welcomes and advice. I changed the differential and the tranny with mobile1 75-90. There were no shavings on the drain plug, just the standard wear. It grinds when at a stop if I don't give it a second after depressing the clutch.

Hey guys, I just completed my registration and thought I would introduce myself. So here I go. After being with my wife for 2 years now I was finally convinced to get my first Subaru. I traded my truck in for an Impreza (the truck was beat up pretty bad). I picked up an 02 Impreza 5spd with 58k on it. The previous owner seems to have been rather rough on it as the synchro in first gear is worn, the gear fluids were all jet black, and it's on very cheap tires. That said, it runs great and stopped burning oil after a valve cover gasket replacement. My wife drives a 2000 Legacy L automatic with 157k on it. It's had almost no problems apart from the head gasket, timing belt, brakes and tires. It still runs amazingly well. I look forward to getting to know you guys! Thanks, Andrew