zzzasy

The first engine failed because I wasn't aware that you are suppose to watch the temp gauge like a hawk. I was sure that if the car was running hot a warning light would come on. $1100 later, I know that isn't true. The engine in the car now started acting up when the cats went out on me. I replaced the cats with aftermarket. After replacing the cats, now the car will not run right. I guess I must have burned something up when I drove the car home (maybe 35 miles) with the red hot cat problem. zzzasy

I'm at a point where I'm getting ready to buy my second engine (third if you count the original) for a '98 OBW I've had for two-plus years. My second engine was a used one I had to buy on the interstate when my subie ran hot and cracked the heads (or so I was told). I'm having problems with the engine and it seems like it would be cheaper to replace then to keep spending on it every couple of months. I've noticed that everyone talks about buying a rebuilt engine ($2895 CCR) instead of rebuilding their own engine. Is there a good reason for this? Wouldn't it be cheaper for me to pull my engine and take it to a machine shop for a rebuild? zzzasy

I'm assuming he tested all that because he agreed with me that the sensor was not bad. He suggested looking at the belt because the sensor was fine. When I get a warm day, I will pull the front cover and check the timing belt and timing marks. I bought this car for the winter months and I have had it for three winters now and each winter its has not been running. Runs great during the summer. zzzasy

My car ('98 OBW) hasn't been running in about 5 months. I have changed the crankshaft position sensor, knock sensor, and camshaft position sensor. The symptoms are when the car is cold it runs ok. Once it reaches operating temps, it starts cutting out like lack of fuel and do not want do go over 40mph. Although I changed the camshaft position sensor, I'm still getting the camshaft code. This is what I was told by the dealer's mechanic. He wants to start by addressing the camshaft position code. Thus, he wants to check the timing belt to see if its off for $490. Of course, I declined. Also, he said this would only be adressing the CEL. What do you think? If the car is running good when cold (closed loop), wouldn't that mean the timing is ok. I thought if the timing was off it would run the same whether in open or close loop. I asked him this question and really didn't get an answer. zzzasy

I bought some Seaform and added it to my gas tank. Now, I'm seeing a lot of threads where its being added to the PCV valve. Someone recommended that I buy the Seaform to clean my top end. Do clean the top end by going through the PCV or will putting it in the gas tank do the same thing? zzzasy '98 OBW

Well I'm not exactly sure how it works on these newer cars, but back in the old days, the symptoms you mentioned would have mostly been a cracked distributor cap that was letting moisture in. Since these newer cars have a different setup, someone else will have to chime in on that one. I do know that some CEL codes are conditional and if the code stays for X drive cycles, then it will set the code and the CEL will remain lit. The CEL is basically emissions related. So, there is really no reason not to drive the car because the CEL on. Basically, the CEL is just saying its not getting the proper response from some of its sensors and the problem could be very benign. zzzasy '98 OBW

will do. No its not stopping. There will be lag, pickup, lag, pickup. It constantly goes like that. It has never sputtered out. It always picks back up.

replaced coolant temp sensor (CTS) about 7 months ago. Also, the cooling fans appears to be coming on. If the CTS was bad, the fans would not be working, right? Also, the car has shown no signs of running hot. zzzasy '98 OBW

Posted earlier (Do I have cracked heads/block) about the situation I'm having with my '98 OBW. For background, I replaced the cats and O2 sensors because the cats burned up. Car had been sitting for maybe 2 months. After replacing the cats I had sensor errors on camshaft position sensor, so I replaced the camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position. Next it thru Knock sensor code, so I replaced the knock sensor. Took the car out and it runs fine when cold. When it reach operating temps it begans to sputter and cut back as if lack of fuel. So, I replaced the fuel filter. When I replaced the fuel filter the car seemed to drive a little better, but once it reached operating temp it began to sputter again. I followed Ferret advice from the previous post and unpulled the front O2 sensor. The car ran pretty much the same, but it got a little worst. Interesting thing was it did not throw a O2 code. Instead, I got a fuel temp sensor code. I assumed this may have come from the new fuel filter, so I cleared it. Haven't taken the car out for a long drive, but when I did drive it this morning for a few minutes, no codes had come back. I will drive it when I get off to see if the code returns. What do you guys think I should look at next? It appears to be more of a fuel problem than an electrical one. I just changed out the coolant, and it is black already; so could that be part of the problem. But, if that is the problem wouldn't that be present rather the car is warm or cold? Does the fact that it doesn't do it when cold sort of means its not a cracked head? Just searching for clues before I have to turn it over to the MAN. Should I replace the IAC? zzzasy '98 OBW

Yea, I already removed the airbox and the clutch slave cylinder. With the slave cylinder removed I can maneuver it better. I had considered removing the throttle cable, but that will be a last resort. zzzasy

Good suggestions. Victory will be mine tommorrow. thanks forum zzzasy

Maybe I just can't see that well, but if I put the bolt in the sensor and try to find the hole, I can't. So, I tried to line the sensor up with hole and then put the bolt thru it, but my hand blocks my sight so I can't line it up that way either. People was saying that it was a 30 minute job; so I was just wonder what method they used. My 40 minutes of perservance yesterday got me nothing. But, the sensor is off and I know where it goes so evenually it will happen.

You can buy the coolant additive from the parts desk at a subaru dealership. I bought some last week for $1.98. zzzasy

Well, I got the old Knock Sensor off the engine on '98 OBW. How the h*ll do you get the bolt lined up to get the new one on. I tried for about forty minutes yesterday to get the new one on until darkness came. How did you guys do it? The next chance I will get will be Saturday morning if its not raining. Working outside in the parking lot in front of my townhouse. I will eventually get it with perseverance, but any hints would be appreciated. zzzasy

Also, make sure your cooling fans are working properly. The first time this happened to me it was the coolant temp sensor (I think that's the name of it). zzzasy '98 OBW

Thanks, had just run across the pictures and was coming back to thank everyone for the help. I was under the impression that I needed a wrench to get to it, but I see that a spocket is what I need. Again, thanks for the advice and assistance. zzzasy

Second question. How do you torque something with a wrench? zzzasy

thanks, and I will do the search. zzzasy

Haven't actually eyeballed it on the car yet; so I will ask the question first. According to the Haynes manual, you have to remove the intake manifold in order to remove the knock sensor. Is this true? and how much work is it to remove the manifold? zzzasy '98 obw 2.5

Noticed on the way home that the car runs good while cold. Once it reaches the operating temp it starts cutting out. Pulled the new codes and it says the camshaft position sensor (which I just replaced) and the bank 1 knock sensor. Do you think I bought a bad sensor or that problem is related to some other underlying cause. Would it be prudent to run out and buy a knock sensor or is that coming from some other underlying cause. thanks in advance zzzasy

Replaced my first engine in '98 OBW last X-mas when I drove to South Carolina not knowing about the HG issue. The car stopped on me and it turned out that I had cracked the block or at least that what I was told when I was stranded. The guy had a used '97 engine that he put in. Car had been driving fine. One day I drove it to work with no problems. When I was leaving work, the car would only sputter and holding it to the floor it would only go around 20 mph. Got home (about a 35 miles trip) looked under the car and the cat was glowing red hot. Order the cheapo cats off the web; put them on and the car had a camshaft sensor code;so I changed the camshaft sensor. Took the car out for test drive, sometimes it accelerates fine, but most of the time it had that hestitate state like it did when the cats where clogged. It will barely pull a hill. I'm dreading it, but I believe I may have blown another engine. I cleared all the codes once I put the cam sensor in but I have the CES again. I will pull this code this evening when I get home. I'm losing coolant; so I know the HG is gone on this engine, but do you think the symptons I mentioned means a cracked head or block. ZZZASY

Haven't actually examined the fog lights on the car yet, but one of my lenses is broken. I looked in the haynes manual last night and it has nothing about the fog lights. Is the fog lights a sealed beam unit? And do they come straight out. zzzasy '98 Outback limited

Yes, the fans are working. They weren't working a few weeks ago, but I replaced the coolant temp sensor and they appear to be working now. Both fans come on immediately when I switch on the AC. If it is the head gasket, how long will the car continue to run. Because like I said, this morning there were no signs that any of this ever happened. Could it just be the coolness of the morning air that's making it unnoticable in the mornings?

Drove in to work yesterday morning in my "98 Outback wagon with no problem. On the way home I noticed the temp gauge was going very hot. Turn on the AC to ensure that fans were working, but the AC was cool, not cold like it usually be. Stoped a gas station bought antifreeze. When I went to put the antifreeze, I noticed the overflow tank was full and the radiator was pretty much empty. This is the second engine due to overheating and cracked heads. When I saw the overflow full, I said to myself must be the water pump (which I changed about 3 months ago). Waited for awhile for the car to cool down. Then I kept going; the car would continually register hot so I would pull over occasionally to let it cool down a bit. All of a sudden while riding the AC kicked into cold and temp gauge returned to normal. As long as I was highway driving it seemed ok. When I got home, I checked the antifreeze it was low again; the overflow had flowed some. I filled the radiator and it kept burping; letting pour more and more in. I was saying to myself; I must have a head gasket problem or something, because out of all the antifreeze I had used. There was no antifreeze running anywhere external. Looked in Haynes and they mentioned the cap as a possible problem. So, later that night I went to buy a new cap. On the ride to get the cap, the car ran fine. Got up this morning and I said I going to drive it to work to see what happens. The morning trip was fine; with on sign of overheating. What do you think this problem is? If it was the cap, shouldn't I have seen antifreeze sprayed under the hood. Could it have been a stuck thermo or water pump? What do you think? ZZZASY '98 Outback 2.5ltr

Thanks, checked on the FP. Its on backorder for 3 weeks.