JT95

Personally, 155,000 is a bit high for $4 grand, but if the car is in super sweet condition, and you love what you bought (and could afford it), then it sounds like you are happy and that's all that matters. It sounds like the car has been maintained very well from one previous owner, so that might very well be worth and extra $500. Provided there aren't any hidden problems, you did fine. I've got a 95 LSi wagon that I bought at 152,000 miles. (I'm not saying what I paid, though.) Been driving it for three years. Rolling over 215,000 now and still love the car. The EJ22 is one heck of an engine. (Subaru experts help me out here--97 still had the EJ22, right?) My car is dependable and peppy. However, my car does have leather interior, and after owning it I will also look for leather seats. No comparison... I wouldn't blink at the expectation of getting 200,000 miles from your car. Ever owned an AWD car before? Handles GREAT, huh? My Sube is now at the point of needing attention. Stuff like CV shafts, replacing window tint, regular aging maintenance stuff. Lots of little things. This is when most people wash and vaccum and take it to the lot to trade in on something newer. I, however, will invest that $$ instead into making my wagon fresh again. In October, I'm doing a custom paint job to freshen things up. I already stripped and recoated the aluminum wheels. I want to see just how many miles I can log before my drivetrain goes kaput. (Anybody think I'll hit 300,000???) And, when it goes kaput, I'll drop a new motor/tranny in and keep going...

Yeah, I know the deal with FWD in snow. That was Detroit's argument for making every stinkin car FWD. But, on dry and wet pavement, RWD wins hands down for handling. I always chuckle at NASCAR. Hey, if your factory turns them out as FWD, you should have to race them as FWD. Did you intend to say "Slaab"? I grew up in the south, so the benefit of FWD in the snow never meant much to me...

Thanks for the replies. Yes, it does feel different as a FWD car, for sure. I don't like it at all. But, it's just short term, so no big deal. Even moreso than the dependability issue, I love Subarus because of AWD. I'd ride my bike everywhere before I would pay money for a FWD car. Anyone who grew up driving RWD cars, I think, can see how crappy a FWD car feels. Now, some will argue that point, but I bet most who do have been raised on FWD cars, so you don't really know what a car is supposed to feel like. With AWD, Suabrus just handle tons better than a FWD car. I'll be glad to pull that fuse in a couple weeks.

I put the FWD fuse in my 95 Legacy LSi wagon yesterday. I have to run 2 mismatched tires for a couple weeks, so I put in the fuse to run the tranny at FWD until I get all 4 matching. I had to take the car on the interstate yesterday. Is there a top speed for the FWD fuse that you need to stop at, or is 75mph okay? I must say, that running the car in FWD reminded me how much I hate driving FWD cars! I love AWD. I was running cruise control, and when the tranny downshifted to go uphill, the handeling was odd feeling when the downshift kicked in the FWD mode. Never felt that before in this car, so didn't know if I should slow it down while in FWD or not...

Thanks for all the feedback. I was forced to replace one tire on my 95, and knew I couldn't do that, so that's why I opted for two instead. I just got two put on this morning. Even if I'd wanted all 4, they only had 3 in stock. I'll have to run only two until the next payday, and then I'll go back and get two more put on. So, it looks like I'll be driving around town for two weeks like this. I'd prefer to wait and get all 4, but as is I had a damaged tire that required pumping up with air twice a day to keep moving. I figured two new tires of the same size might be better for the AWD system than having one tire that is either running way too low on psi or way too high (from the cycle of pumping twice a day). I am putting the FWD fuse in as soon as I log off the 'net. Thanks for the advice on that.

Yeah, I've wondered how sensitive the sytem was. I'd never run two different styles of tires, but I'm sure there will be some slight differences in the two. I can't afford to buy four tires just to replace one bad one, though. A question, though: can your have bad effects w/ the AWD system if you put four identical tires on a Sube, but one of them is at a significantly lower psi than the others? (Say 10 or 15 lbs less pressure) Or if you had a bad alignment and one of the four tires had premature wear? Just how sensitive in reality is the AWD system to differences at the wheels when it comes to tires?

I have one bad tire. Don't feel like buying four to replace one damaged one. Can I put two new tires of the same size/tread on the rear, run the used tires up front, and not have any AWD issues?

How true... And, of course, if you don't like the car, you're ready to have it crushed when the dome light goes out. My 95 Legacy wagon is about to flip 220,000. Has been cheap to drive the past three years (when I got it), but now things are coming at me at once--CV shafts, struts, ignition key and the switch aren't friends anymore--but I've enjoyed the car and plan to keep it going. As far as alternators go--I've had ZERO luck with alternators from chain parts stores. Get the real deal--saves many headaches later.

This is different from the "lock" that occurs when you park with the wheel turned too far--I've experienced that before on multiple cars and tugged the wheel back and got the key to turn. This is with my tires pointed perfectly straight. Yes, it's securely in Park. The first time I got "locked out" where the tugging and wiggling of the steering wheel and key did nothing, I had my wife bring me her key to the car, and the newer key made no difference. It doesn't do this all the time, but enough to where it's a major pain in the butt and quite an inconvenience if I'm in a hurry. I'm waiting for it to happen permanently. The past few days I have made a point to park with my steering wheel straight, make sure it's definitely in park, and I even make sure I turn the key back completely before pulling it out. Still, it just seems to do this at random times. If it were a car that took 2 keys, I'd just go to the junkyard and get me a different ignition/key from a doner car, but it'd be a major pain to swap out all the door and hatch locks too. If the problem is even in the switch itself...which I don't know what the possibilities can be. Anyone had any experience swapping in a new ignition switch? How expensive is it, and how the heck do you address the issue of matching it to the key. I suppose I could just pull an old one from the junkyard and have two keys--if it saved me a pocket of bills. Any idea if up to '99 is the same for my '95?

Just started experiencing this issue. Sometimes when I put my key in the ignition, I am physically unable to turn it. The car is in park, and no, the wheels aren't turned at a sharp angle. When this happens, I have to tug like hell on the steering wheel and twist the key and eventually it will turn to the on position. I've had one episode where I couldn't get it to ever turn, and after some time away, and a degree of cussing once back in the car, I eventually got it to turn. Any help would be appreciated. What, specifically, is the root of the problem? Do I just need to swap in a new ignition switch, and is that a big pain and a big cost because of the key? I assume it might have something to do with the neutral safety switch? My car is a '95 Legacy wagon.

I assume that you will be putting full coverage insurance on this car if you buy it. Be aware that if--and we hope not--the car gets crashed again while you own it, the insurance company will probably only give you 70% of the vehicle's book value because it is a salvage titled car. You need to make sure you don't have more invested in the car than you could get from the insurance companies if needed. I have worked on several rebuilt wrecks. My 95 Legacy LSi wagon was wrecked when I bought it. Totaled doesn't always mean physically totaled. It just means that all the labor to fix the car (in addition to parts) would make it more expensive than most would want to fool with. If repairs go over 70-80% of the car's value then the insurance companies total it out. I did most of the labor myself on my 95 (a frame shop straightened the front, which wasn't too bad out of whack anyway) and I ended up investing about $1600 total to put a sweet inexpensive ride on the road...of course that was with lots of hours in the garage. If you can get pictures of what the car looked like before, that would be good. Buying a salvage title car that has already been fixed is always a pig in a poke, especially when you're talking $10K+. Most wrecked cars are never totally like they were before. (The only exception I can think of is my uncle, who used to spend a whole year rebuilding a car--his welds were so sweet it made factory welds look like a child did 'em...) People who rebuild one to sell have to do so in a reasonable time frame or they don't make money. See if all the gaps in door fittings and trunk lid are uniform. Lots of times a car hit in the back will have the gap of the trunk lid lines wider on one side than the other. Look hard and careful underneath. Keep in mind the paint may not look as nice in two or three years as the factory paint would have, depending on the brand used and the painter's skill. People have already mentioned other things to look for. Bottom line--can you find the same thing that's never been wrecked for almost the same price? If so, go for that instead. The only time you should choose a salvage title car is if it saves you a good chunk of money.

Thanks for the pics. I LOVE the Baja and can't wait until I am able to buy one of my own. Maybe I could just torch off the rear roof of my 95 Legacy wagon...

If anything, grab the phone book and call your local/somewhat local yards to see which ones let you in to browse/pull parts and which ones do not. I've been rummaging through different salvage yards pretty much my whole life. If/when you find a yard that is easy to work with and treats you right, it's worth driving a bit to. In my area (KY), most yards let you in to look around. Some charge $1 and many don't. A lot of them will not let you just walk back and wander--they like to know that you are looking for a specific item(s). Even if you just want to wander around and "window shop", still have a few parts to list if they ask what you are looking for. Or, let them know straight up that you want to see what Subaru vehicles they have and what's good on them. If a salvage yard gets to know you, they will often times let you drive through the yard to go get your part. Some salvage yards can be a bunch of snooty a-holes too. You learn pretty quick if there are any of those around. These are the ones that usually make their cash from selling complete wrecks for rebuild and don't like messing with little guys who just want a few parts that aren't going to bring any substantial profit. I stay away from those places. If they are busy and think you're not buying a big ticket item, they'll often tell you they don't have what you need when they really do. Most yards aren't bad, but there are some snotty ones out there. The bad thing about the yards that won't let you back is that their guys don't always remove a part with the same care that you might. If you pull it yourself, you also make sure to get all bolts/brackets/fasteners that the salvage wrencher often doesn't or maybe even destroys in the process. (Some yards will just cut something off because that's quicker.) Plus, you pay more if they pull it usually. I love going to the salvage yard and looking or piddling around, so you're in for one of life's great treats for gearheads...

I'm picking up a thermostat on my way home this afternoon, but I'll start by trying to burp out any air in the system. Even if it ends up not needing the thermo, it's good to have one stashed away in a storage compartment.

Well, it had been running fine for a long time with no over heating problems. My fluid level was not topped off, but wasn't low enough to cause a problem, imho. I watched the temp guage slowly keep rising past the half mark it usually stops at. I pulled over, let it cool a bit, and then topped off the fluid level. Nothing. Drove a little bit and stopped as the temp rose and then let it cool again. At one point the hot air started blowing and the temp rested at the half mark. That lasted about 10 minutes and then the air turned cold and the temp rose again. It acted just like it did when I changed the thermostat before, so I'm assuming that is the prob.

Okay, I replaced the thermostat on my 95 LSi about a year and a half ago. Last night my engine started overheting--nothing but cold air out of the vents with the heat turned up and I topped off the fluids. I got this thermostat from O'Reiley's. Are the non-Sube thermos usually an unwise replacement? There is no Subaru dealership near me, so I have to get a thermostat from Auto Zone or Advance or NAPA or someplace. Who has had good luck with a replacement thermostat from one of the chain parts stores? Thanks!

I have used PPG before, and I have had good results with it.

I love the Bajas. I'm in a Legacy wagon and hope to pick up my own Baja in a couple years. I test drove a 5-speed non-turbo one and was really pleased. The ride height and feel of the vehicle is great. I used to drive a 4-speed El Camino until I started having kids and have missed the truck/car experience. As far as the stares--I think most people like the looks of these cars. They're sleek, sporty, and rugged at the same time. I know sales have been sluggish and that Subaru was considering cutting the Baja from its lineup. I think the big problem with this car has been its marketing, or rather lack of. This vehicle really reaches beyond the "typical" new Subaru buyer. I've not seen any advertising for the thing, except a few magazine ads when it first came out. You take the exact same Baja, strip the Subaru badges off and replace them with Chevy emblems, stick it on the Chevy dealer lot, and they'd sell like crazy to all these people who like the concept of the Baja but feel obligated to stick with an American brand. Had SOA pushed hard the "Built In the USA" into some cool advertising for this thing, there'd be double the number you now see on the road...

The last time I dealt with an insurance company paying for damage to a car of mine was about 10 years ago. Their quote was generated by the adjuster and was lower than the two shops I had taken my wife's car to. It was funny, because their "repair estimate" was just from a computer database and not from an actual repair shop. I kept annoying them when we sat down at their office by asking repeatedly if I could call the shop who gave them the lower estimate and discuss the repair they were going to do. The lady would roll her eyes and explain to me again that the repair wasn't from an actual shop, the whole time thinking I was too dumb to understand and totally missing the satire I was tossing her way. They tore up that check and handed me another one for more. I handed it back to her and showed her on paper how it was $12 short. She glared at me "You honestly want me to get a new check for $12 more made out?" I said yep. I doubt there's enough damage to total it out. Of course, I have no idea what the labor charges would come to. If they tried to total it they'd have to work it for me to keep the car because there's no way I'm finding a wagon as nice as this one around here. Besides, I'll probably end up doing the body and paint work myself. I'm just glad I didn't strip the car last summer and get it a brand new paint job like I had considered. I was sitting in my wagon as we waited for the police to come to the scene thinking "Wow, I'm so glad I hadn't bought my Baja yet."

Yeah, I was lucky I didn't get more damage to my car. I was impressed at how nimble the Sube was. I went from one second having this big SUV right in front, coming at me three-quarter, to a split second later just getting clipped on the rear quarter. Any of you dealt with an insurance claim recently? My last time was a couple years ago and the car was totaled, so there wasn't any talk of repair. My Legacy is a '95. I'm assuming the adjuster will figure in having this quarter panel cut out and a replacement one welded in, but since the car is 11 yrs old I didn't know if they'd try to assume a Bondo job instead...

I'd have to agree there. My 95 wagon has the factory roof rack, plus the bike carrier trays I added, and it doesn't feel any different than any non roof-rack cars I drive in the wind. Plus if you have always had the roof rack but used to not notice the unstability in wind, I doubt that'd be the cause.

Grrrrrr..... I was driving through town this afternoon and a kid in his SUV was trying to make a left turn through traffic onto the road from a McDonald's and didn't see me coming in the left lane. Because of my Jedi-like reflexes, I almost avoided the crash and should be thankful because it could have been a worse wreck. But, still, the hassle of dealing with insurance companies is a major pain in the butt, especially in a no-fault state. Still, it was obviously his fault, so I hope there's no headache with his insurance company. Anyway, I managed to get away with only this damage to my 95 LSi wagon: No damage to my rear door, but it did put a crease in the gas lid and chipped the edge clean off the taillight. No evidence of contact to the tire/wheel. Seems to drive okay. Here's my question: Even though there was no apparant contact to the wheel and the hit wasn't a direct hit to the car, I'm assuming the car's alignment will probably need readjusted or at least checked. My Subaru is the first car I have owned that has the rear aligned. Should I expect to have to make the insurance company include an alignment in their estimate, or do you think they will include that on their own? I'm curious to see what the estimate ends up being--both from his insurance adjuster and from the shops I go to. It's all labor fees, as nothing unbolts and is easily replaced like a fender. The guy was a 16 yr old and I felt sorry for him even though it was his fault. Someone had left a gap for him to pull out and motioned for him to go ahead. He wasn't driving like a yahoo or anything. No one was hurt, so I didn't get at all angry and even told his mom not to fuss at him when she showed up at the scene. I can repair this and still keep the ol' Sube going strong...

My odometer reads 183,000 miles on it. So far my transmission has operated very well. (My only problem is a mild vibration when sitting still in traffic in D.) If the previous owner took the car to the Subie dealership, then service/repair records should be readily available through them if you have the VIN. I did a scan of autotrader.com out of curosity and the 95/96 Legacy cars are priced higher than I expected. An LSi is a nicer car, too, if any of that is important to you. Depending on what Subarus sell for in your area, this one might not be a great deal, but if it is in good condition it sounds like a fair deal. You can probably find a better deal if you wait, but that's not always a guarantee. The 2.2 engine is the way to go, though, if you keep looking for used Subarus. Not a great picture of the car on that web page that's linked above. For fun, though, click on the "More in this price range" link and see the other 10-11 yr old cars that pop up at the same price... It does say OBO--If you like the car, see if they will take $3,400. You can always pay the $3,900 afterwards if they don't bite...

$3900 sounds kind of high for an 11 year old car, but, it depends how pristine its condition. To be honest, that's probably $1,000 less than a lot might ask for an LSi. I have an 95 LSi and I love the car. I've had it a year and a half now, and it's got 180K miles on the odometer. The car drives great. The 2.2 engine is a dream, and I think most people would tell you if you're looking for a good used Sube, try to find one w/ the 2.2. If you feel comfortable with the price, I would say that's reasonable for what the car is. Leather seats, CD changer, AWD, and most of the factory goodies. Plus, with it being from the origional owner, you know the entire history of the car--assuming you trust the person. Try to get the entire maintenance record of the vehicle. Timing belt replaced? If not, figure that will need done. My 95 LSi wagon replaced a newer car with half the miles, and my Subaru is a much better built vehicle than what it replaced. That 2.2 engine in the car you are looking at is a very solid motor.

Wow--surely it can't take that much time to swap out plugs for a dealer? If so, I may never move up to a newer Sube if they are that much more of a hassle to work on for maintenance tasks. On my 95 2.2 I can do a plug swap in my driveway in 30 minutes easy. Oil changes are a snap as well. That's one thing that made me fall in love with Subaru--a car i could actually pop the hood and work on.