JT95

100% tongue-in-cheek remark. I love my Sube way too much to mess with anyone else's. Heck, I'd have to say, though, that I would give up one of my license plate screws to a fellow Subaru owner in need. I remember when I got my Legacy wagon there was no license plate and no screws either. I bought a little package from AutoZone and they of course didn't fit. So, I rooted through my stash of misc. screws and found some Subaru body screws and used them instead...so ghetto, I know...

Ask some of the younger guys who work behind the counter at your local parts stores--maybe that will give you a tip to who is good locally. Make sure that the place will guarantee the work to last. Many offer a "lifetime" guarantee, in that they are supposed to redo the tint job if it bubbles in a few years. Ask whoever is in charge straight up "What will you do for me if this starts to bubble in two years?" Make sure you have something in writing and be certain that you keep all receipts! Even if they are great, honest people, if you don't have your receipt they really can't fix something they're not so sure they did 2 or 5 years ago...

Where in KY you from?

What color is yours, BTW?

Just take a screwdriver to the mall, find a Subaru parked in a spot where you'll be shielded by other cars, and take one of their screws. They will never miss nor notice one screw missing. Three more Subes and you got your license plate snugly fastened.

Is there a "proper" way to do this? If I remove the windshield pillar moulding, will I have some access to the drain tube? Would a new tube just slide over an outlet connector that's part of the roof/sunroof structure?

I'm curious on this one too. The Check Engine light came on for the first time on my 95 when my wife was driving this weekend and she stopped by Advance Auto Parts and they told her it was a code for a MAP sensor problem. The light is off now, so I've not worried too much about it, but I did see MAF sensor and not MAP listed on the only parts web site I checked. (The parts store told my wife they couldn't get a MAP sensor and check w/ the dealer..)

For, $25, get with a smile. See what else you can get off the car while you are at it. All the little stuff like emblems don't hold any value after it hits the crusher, so the yard usually gives that stuff to you if you're buying something else.

I'd check out the CCR folks first. As far as Jasper, I've never bought one personally, but know of people who have had a lot of luck with them. These were Detroit steel engines, though. I didn't even think Jasper would have a Sube engine. Still, if it's covered under a solid warranty, Jasper is an established company that has been around and isn't going away.

Great story. Keep the Baja if at all possible. I guess their following is limited (CR calls it the answer to the question no one was asking), but I think they are the coolest car on any dealer lot. Down the road they are going to be a car/truck people have to look hard for to buy in good used condition, so keep what you have. I, personally, have Baja-envy. Hopefully, finish paying off my student loans and I'll own one in a couple years...

I have a factory sunroof in my 95 LSi wagon. I have developed a leak inside the car that drips from the bottom edge of the dash on the passenger side. I slid back the sunroof and poured water in the drain hole. Sure enough, water soon started dripping onto the carpet from that edge of the dash, so I know that's where the leak is originating. However, the drain hole in the sunroof is not blocked and the drain outlet at the wheel well is not blocked either. I checked the outlet as I poured water in the sunroof and some of the water did drain out of it like it's supposed to and the rest came out inside the car. So, since the issue is probably not blockage, I'm guessing the drain line has a hole in it. Any of you had a similar problem? Is there a way to replace the factory drain line or should I just run a smaller tube up through the factory line and seal its edges at the opening at the roof? I love Subarus, but having your dash padding turn to a mildew mess because of a rubber tube seems like a really dumb design...

My passenger side floorboard is soaked from a leak. It's a rain issue and not from heater core or anything. I do have a sunroof, but wouldn't think it is from that, as I had a clogged sunroof drain this past summer and that leak wasnoticably a roof issue. During a steady rain, I could see water dripping from the bottom far right side of the dash, which makes sense why there's no water at the top of the floorboard up near the firewall and just on the center part of the floor. Is this more than likely the result of a leaky windshield seal? I hate having to deal with water logged carpet, but even moreso I hate the thought of my dash getting swelled with water. Thanks for any input from those who have dealt with a leak before. By the way, the car is a 95 Legacy wagon.

ANY car line will have some degree of problems, as is the case with Subaru. I agree w/ what others have said about people going to discussion boards to hash out the problems they are having and not to report when everything is going right. I bought a used Legacy wagon a little over a year ago and absolutely love the car. I didn't know much about Subarus before becoming a Subie owner, but one thing I have noticed is that Subaru owners love their cars and recommend them to others. I don't think I've encountered any other group of auto owners who sing the praises of their cars the way Subaru owners do. Other than a few problems w/ the head gaskets on the gen 1 2.5 engines, I've heard very few complaints about these cars. They are very thoughtfully designed and well built cars. They always rank high in Consumer Reports ratings, and the Legacy was among just a handful of new cars to get the gold award in the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety's top 10 cars for 2006.

Okay, I know the preaching has been ringing on this for years, but I have really noticed a HUGE difference in my mileage when going at higher speeds on the big road. 10mph seems to drain 5mpg difference on my 95 Legacy. It's so dang easy to speed in my wagon because the thing is so smooth and quiet at 80mph, but 20-21mpg is the best i can do in it. If I drop to 70ish and keep the RPM below3000, I swear I kick the numbers up 5mpg. Is that the same for everybody else? I knew, of course, going faster hurt mileage, but I never would have thought it made that drastic of a difference...

Man, here's my second posting this week w/ a problem w/ my Subaru--sorry to load the board. 95 Legacy wagon. The sunroof retracts just fine, but when I close it, it stops just before that last little lift up that seals the rubber to the roof opening. I assuming these's a little mechanism that handles that "lift" part of closing the sunroof? If anyone has had a similar problem with your sunroof, please let me know what you had to do to get it fixed. Thanks. -JT

Sounds like a great deal. Invest a little bit of the money you saved and do some tweaking on the car, as some have mentioned. My 95 2.2 Legacy wagon has 170,000 miles on it and I've had no major problems with it. I wish mine were a 5 speed...

The car just rolled 170,000. I don't know if it was ever changed, I did ask the previous owner some maintenance questions, but that wasn't one of them. I wish it would throw a check engine light so that would give me a code to investigate. I'm getting like 18-22 mpg and the engine has a fuelish smell to it--like it's running too rich. My wife says she can smell it on me after I've been on the road. It's not a rotten egg exhaust smell. It's definitely something in the engine bay--not horribly strong, but enough to notice. My wife said she noticed a little less pep when she drove it from what it used to have. Would a shop be able to do reliable diagnostics w/o me ever had a check engine light flash?

If I had some cash to toss away, I'd just go ahead and buy a new O2 sensor for my 95 wagon. Is there a way to test if these things are operating correctly? I have no check engine light that has ever come on in this car. But, my gas mileage is horrible and the engine smells a bit like it's running rich. Could the O2 sensor be causing some problems for the engine's computer? Any other suggestions?

If all the shop is doing is changing out plugs and wires, $170 is a bunch. Do it yourself. Subaru engines--at least yours--are good engines to work on, unlike lots of other Japanese FWD cars. I swapped my plugs out fairly easy. I'm getting ready to do another plug change and ignition wire change. The main thing you want to be careful of is threading in the new plug. Make sure it smooths into thread and you're not forcing it. Some people use a piece of rubber hosing that fits securely on the new spark plug to get it started in the head--I've got this cool little plastic tool made for that purpose, but other people get by fine with just their fingers. Here's what I do when doing both. Change one plug and wire at a time. I don't know anybody who pulls off all the old wires and then puts the new on...at least not more than once. Of course, I used to work on V8 cars, so a 4 banger isn't quite as open to the confusion of what plug wire gors to which plug. Still, play it safe and do them one at a time. This is a job you can do, and you'll feel like a stud afterwards. $170 bucks is a ripoff...

My 92 auto tranny is about to hit 170,000, and--knock on wood--no transmission oddities whatsoever thus far. Seems to works smooth, other than a slight vibration when sitting in traffic, which most people wouldn't bother to notice, but I know it's there. This is my first Subaru, though, so I have no knowledge base for these trannys. TH350 GM auto trannys used to push to about 200,000 and beyond, so I hadn't really thought too much about my Sube auto...When a Subaru tranny does go, what does a standard rebuild usually run for those of you who know?

I've got a 95 2.2. Haven't really noticed a sound other than the normal little AC click you get with every car. AC will take a toll on power and mpg. I don't notice a huge difference with power, but if I wanna scoot in a hurry from a dead stop I click off the AC.

Be nice to see what it'd look like with brushed aluminum grille inserts instead of black...

I have a non-Yakima bike rack setup, but I used Yakima mounting clamps because they fit the factory cross bars so well. Mine's a 95, though.

This is what a tech at MSN Ignition told me about my 95 2.2: I've not put this stuff on my car because I've been spending any free cash on non-automotive toys, but I used to use MSN upgrades on my V8 Chevys years ago and always saw/felt an improvement. May be worth checking into.

I changed the oil and brake pads a couple days ago on my 95 wagon. My first time doing Subaru brakes--dude, what a cinch!