JT95

I would say there is something to observation that Subaru is trying to upscale itself. The market for luxury Japanese cars has really gotten big, and I say Subaru will soon be moving itself into that bracket nearly exclusively. I would say in 5 years they will have much of the Subaru badged production priced considerably more than the bulk of their offering now. Here's my crystal ball prediction--lay your $50 on the table with me and wait 5 to 10 years to see who's right--but I say that if you want to buy a non-luxurious, decent priced Subaru in the future then you will have to go to the Chevrolet or Pontaic dealership and buy a Sube that has been rebadged as a GM car.

Hey, Subiegal, did your hood come with the vent holes already cut and the vents on there, or is that something custom you did? I'm painting my wagon this spring and want something to add a bit of flare to my hood, but nothing too loud or gawdy. I'm cheap, so I want to scavange the salvage yard and pull something off a wreck's hood to modify into mine. I've never cut on a hood and am curious about the lighter sheetmetal from overseas and it's workability in that regard. Your car looks great, btw. You know, you drop the "I" off your plates and maybe you could be the new spokesperson for Subway...people are getting a little tire of Jared...

Have you noticed any difference in gas mileage when you go to FWD, Jason? Now, if only there were a RWD option--that would be sweet.

Now, as far as being responsible for drivetrain damage from towing, that's assuming you're not being towed as a result of being illegally parked or whatever. If that's the case, I don't think they are liable for any towing damage. Any real towing service has a flatbed hauler. Now, Bob's garage who sometimes tows a car probably won't, but a place that tows regularly will have one. Just tell them you need a flatbed and that's what they will send. If they don't have one, call someone else.

Are there many Cavalier owners out there going crazy over broken engines with blown head gaskets at 70,000 miles? Now, I'd never pick a Cavalier over a Subaru, but I'm just trying to make a point. The problem with looking at the track record of previous models of the same car is that car makers totally change things up periodically, and a new design is pretty much like what you said, nothing but a blank guess as far as true reliability. Now, if a car is using the same drivetrain it had 8 years ago, then there's a pretty systematic/scientific method of predicting reliability of the new model. My car before my Sube was a 93 Chevy Caprice with almost 200,000 miles on it. It was 11 yrs old and had been a cop car its first few years, so it sat still and ran a lot, putting more wear on the engine than the odometer could reveal. If I'd had a garage I would have dropped a 350 in that baby and gone another 200,000. Of course, Chevrolet doesn't make "real" cars like that anymore, so I in no way want to defend the blue bowtie. Here's a funny tidbit--I was driving a temporary-car awhile back. A 94 Cavalier I paid $600 for. I drove it for two months, did a few cheap cosmetic fixes to the interior, and gave it and $100 cash for my 95 Legacy LSi. (Granted the Sube was missing the front bumper and a damaged hood/fender.)

Hey--fellow 95 Sube owner. Got my LSi wagon in 2004. Great car. It was a one-owner before coming to me. I have MUCH higher miles than you, though, at 160,000. The man who had it before me took really good care of it in regards to having it serviced at the dealership where he bought it new. That Subaru dealership replaced its timing belt a few thousand miles before the 100K point--I think that's what the manual says is the schedule to replace it the first time. The 2.2 is a great engine. You're about 70,000 miles behind me, and my engine is going strong and smooth, so you should plan on a long, happy life with yours. Here's what I would do if I were you: plan ahead to have the timing belt replaced (by a shop that has Subaru experience) before you hit that 100K mark. That way, if it's a cost you need save for, you still got plenty of time to set aside some cash little by little for the job. If you don't have to plan ahead for expenses like this, then go ahead and get it done now. If you can't afford to cough up repair bills like this on-demand, then there's no way you want to get stuck on the side of the road with a) the same repair bill for a replaced timing belt plus the possibility of paying extra for I-need-it-now service and the extra cost of having the car flat towed to the shop.

Many others here are much more experienced and knowledgeable than I am, but I had something similar happening with my 95 2.2 a couple months ago. I had done absolutely nothing to the cooling system since I started driving the car, and it had always operated fine. Then, one night my heater went cool and the temp was higher than usual, but not at the danger zone. No previous Sube experience, but I figured it was the thermostat, so I bought a new one and swapped them. That was a major pain because the replacemen thermostat's o-ring rubber gasket didn't seal 100% and I kept getting a leak until I figured I needed to just use the old gasket on the new thermostat. That aside, it wasn't that big a hassle of a job. Anyway, after a few days of driving I started overheating big time one afternoon. At first I thought maybe it was a bad water pump, but that didn't seem to be the case. I didn't know what to do after i checked fluid level, etc. The coolant looked almost completely full, but I decided to add a little with the engine running. I touched the upper radiator hose to feel for flow--didn't feel any, and then I squeezed it tight. When I let go, the radiator gurggled and the fluid level dropped. I "milked" the hose like this a few more times by squeezing it. Then I added the coolant slowly, doing the squeeze and gurgle periodically during the process. Not had a degree over that middle normal operating temp range since.

It also may depend on how hard you hit the throttle. I've got a 95 2.2 wagon. Since 90% of power on the auto tranny hits the front wheels under normal driving conditions, when you gunned it on ice the front wheels with that 90% force spun something horrible, thus causing the car to quickly transfer the power to the rear. Once the power hit the rear, with your wheels turned to one side up front, that started the donut effect. After you got the spin started, AWD or not the donut would probably still continue even when power rebalanced between front and rear. That's just a theory, though. I'm new to Subes, but I did do some similar playing on parking lot ice in my AWD auto wagon.

The best bet would be to dig, dig, dig on the phone with salvage yards. There are some parts locator services on the web, but I'd get phone listings and call away. The ideal scenario would be to find one in an area where Subaru doesn't really have a big name. A 94 wrecked Subaru in lots of rural places--especially in the South--is pretty much worthless. If you find one you could probably get it much cheaper than if someone found one for you as a service. Plus, if you wanted to pull the turbo out yourself--which is what you want to do--buying a wrecked donor car would be a lot cheaper than one on the road.

Yeah, I figured you would need to hang closer than what is safe/comfortable. I've heard people make references to drafting from semis and figured they weren't getting any benefits unless tailgating.

This may be a silly question, but while on the interstate, just how close do you have follow behind a semi in order to reap any drafting benefits?

I've got a 95 Legacy wagon. I love it, and I pretty much yawn at most everything the automakers have been offering the past 10 years. Now, there have been some head gasket issues with early 2.5 engines, but I think most agree that the problem was resolved on later models, so a new Sube should do you fine there. As a 10 yr old car with 160,000 miles, I am impressed with my Subaru wagon. The drivetrain works well. Power is nothing to brag about, but come on, if I wanted to hot rod with the family in the car I would have got a 95 Impala. The thing i like about my Subaru is the fit and finish. Everything still fits together, everything is still tight, all the little stuff is there and working, etc. It's very solid in an assembled strong kind of solid. If I had the $$$ to plunk down, a Subaru is about the only new vehicle I would buy. My previous Japanese car was a Honda Civic 4WD wagon. It was a neat car and served me well until the engine blew at 180,000, but it never really impressed me much. I'd never really want a Honda, but I'd never frown at one either. They make good cars, as everybody knows. Still, it felt chitzy compared to what I had been driving. I see the mechanical superiority reputation Honda has received, but I didn't think the quality and fit of materials on everything else was anything to brag about. Never owned a Toyota. Never will. If Toyota had enough attitude to scream, it screams "Yawn, I just want a boring car that is reliable." I'm sure they are good cars though, as they carry a good reputation. My cousin has owned 2 Camrys--he and his wife were pleased with the dependability of the car, but I never thought much of it when I rode in it. Also, ever notice that all the newer Toyota cars have this horrible habit of the paint on their bumpers being a very noticable different shade than the paint on the rest of the car? Very little exposure to a Mazda. A buddy in high school drove one. It seemed depenable, but it was chitzy feeling on the inside. Two years ago a friend and his wife were driving down the road in their fairly new Mazda and the air bag light blinked at a stop sign, then deployed in his face and busted the windshild. They contacted Mazda and told them what had happened, that Mazda should pay the repair bill, and the only response they got from Mazda was a brochure on air bag safety. A few months ago another friend was in a bad wreck in her Mazda and although the car was hit hard in the front the air bag never deployed. Mazda sent her the same brochure on air bag safety. Here's what I'd do. Buy what you like yourself in. As far as reliability/durability, go drive some used cars of the same model and see how they seem 30-70,000 miles after new.

Nothing to add about the warranty question, but big congrats on the new Baja. I test drove a 5-speed and loved it. I'm buying one myself...in about 5 years when I can afford one...

Had this same thing happen with my 95 LSi. I didn't think of my keychain remote, as I stashed it somewhere because it was too bulky to carry around in my pocket. Anyway, here's the easy fix I discovered, if you still need help: Disconnect the battery. Put your key in the ignition and turn to the ON position. Then, hook up the battery cables again. Problem fixed. I figured out that messing with the power supply without a key in the ignition "told" the security system that someone other than the owner was tinkering with the car. The key seemed to "tell" the security system everything was cool and no need to flash warnings.

95 2.2 Legacy. About to hit 160,000. No major problems so far--runs super smooth...

I've got a 95 Legacy as well--LSi wagon. I have the automatic transmission. I don't "feel" the rear power like I expected when I first started driving the car--and I discovered it's usually just 10% power to the rear--but I can tell a difference between it and a regular FWD car. I have done a fair bit of snow and/or ice driving since getting the Sube this past year--you feel the rear when it needs it. Though I'd like a nice 50/50 split all the time, it's still not a bad drivetrain. I was really impressed with the handeling.

I just got my 95 LSi wagon this past year and I love it. Other than the thermostat going kaput, I've not had to do anything to it. It was from a one-owner before I acquired it. Almost to 160,000 miles right now and still going smooth and strong. The 2.2 is a mighty fine engine. $3500 does not sound like a bad price for that car. I really enjoy my leather interior and buttons...

Had the same problem with my 95. I cut off the factory wiring harness to the headlight and spliced in a new one from Wally-World for $4 and it works perfect.

You might wanna put your old headlight assemblies on eBay. Even though they may not be a purty as new, clear ones, someone on a budget would still buy one or both of them as a replacement much cheaper than new...

I got a 95 LSi wagon this year. It's a really nice car for a 10 yr old--the leather interior has held up really well and I would guess looks nicer than if it had been 10 yr old cloth. I've got high miles on mine, but I'm sure you could find some with more at the 100K range. Buy a mid-90s one that has been taken care of with the 2.2 and you're in business. I've seen some pretty decent Subaru deals on 95-97 wagons for $3,000-5,000 if you avoid the Outbacks which are typically pricier used vehicles. If you got travelin shoes, search out classifieds in areas where Subarus aren't as in demand. Colorado probably has higher priced used Subarus than does Texas. I got my 95 Legacy wagon from a little lot in rural Kentucky--it had some front end damage that I had to repair myself, but I got the car for very cheap. (Disgustingly cheap...) If it had been a damaged 95 Camaro it would have been priced three times what I got it for. Personally, if I'm used car shopping, I'd rather buy a good 96 model car for $4,000 and invest $2,000 into it (nice wheels and/or tires, upgrade the seats if needed, audio system treats, misc. accessories, and of course all required maintenance for the mileage on the car.) than to buy one 2-3 years newer for $6,000. Assuming the older one has been maintained mechanically--has a 2.2--you're good to go and you can "spoil" the car as soon as you get it.

Go to subiegal.com

I thought emblams were pocket freebies in overpriced lots...

I just started driving my 95 Legacy wagon 4 months ago. The 2.2 is a GREAT engine. If the car is in good shape, that's not a bad price considering what I have seen other 95 and 96s priced. I lucked out and got an LSi without pulling much from my wallet--my first car with leather seats--but any model will have a bulletproof 2.2 if the owner took care of routine maintenance. If you have the $$ and like the condition of the 95, I'd snatch it today. Is the guy selling it the first or second owner? See if you can get any of the history on it. I was able to call the dealership where my car used to be serviced and have them pull up its service record. Read all the papers in the glovebox and see what you can learn about what's been done to it. Find out if the timing belt has been replaced. My car is about to hit 160,000 miles and runs butter smooth. My thermostat went bad last month, and when I replaced it I had problems with needing to "burp" the coolant system because it still kept overheating. That was a pain and although I like doing my own work, I think I'll let the dealership do a cooling system fill next time--apparantly that's a quirkiness of Subarus. Changing oil and spark plugs is a cinch. Look at your CV boots on either car and see what they are like. If torn, that'll be a repair bill coming up, so take that into consideration. If the 95 seems to run well, the people here claim 200,000 is just breaking in a 2.2. That's what I'm hoping...

From what I hear, the newer 2.5 are much improved and more reliable. It'll be 10 years before I'm able to buy one of these04 or 05 Subes, so I'll get back with you then and share my opinion. I've got a 95 LSi wagon with the 2.2 and love it. Almost 160,000 miles and the engine is smooth and quiet. Peppy enough--for a four cylinder. A joy to pop the hood and work on too. Find yourself a mid 90s Sube with a 2.2 and you'll be happy.

Wow--if there are that many people already unified, forget waiting around for a lawsuit to meander through the court system. Build a flashy web site that warns people of the bad problem and that Subaru refuses to take care of loyal customers. Then pick a Saturday and have all those people drive around and park at their local Subaru dealerships with a "Subaru Cheated Me--Read The Website" banner or sign hanging on the side of their cars. Pass out flyers on the lot if you want. Drive to a faraway city to do it if you're too embarrassed to do it at home. Be sure everyone who does it has someone take pictures of the signs at the dealership--even better if you can get shots with browsing car customers around. Have a hit counter on the web site. Have someone compile a list of all the Subaru dealerships across the country the people "visit", add as many pics as you can, and share the URL of the web site: arrange in a nice package, along with a list of all of your cases and contact info, a good record of how big the problem is, and mail it to one of the big dogs at SOA. Ask them if they could please offer a fair settlement to each of you and to contact everyone on your list within 30 days. Be sure to tell them that if they don't respond with a reasonable offer that you will repeat the Subaru dealership "blitz" again. Be sure to mention that "By the way, we have some nice pictures of our 'Bad Subaru' assult of signs and a brief article about our mission for justice that we plan to send to every automotive magazine if you don't respond promptly." The pen can sometimes be mightier than the lawyer--and usually a lot cheaper too. Subaru will more than likely refuse to offer anything to remedy this problem unless they believe it could hurt them financially by ruining their public image and threaten their perceived reputation of dependability. Realistically, bombarding the dealerships would not really do much, but if it were all done on the same day and at enough lots, it would sure make an interesting tidbit for Car And Driver or Motor Trend or such to cover in an issue. The media usually hypes something like that as being bigger than it really was, so that would possibly mar Subaru's image with the general public. Bad press is bad for business.