Peerson

I know I have been silent for quite a while. Mostly due to life things, and motors loosing oil pressure in annoying places. Ahhh nothing like routine maintenance in exotic locations. All funny stuff aside, including getting all of my cars out of CA finally. Well I have come to a crossroads with two cars in particular. One of these cars is my 1994 Legacy. It has allot of miles on it but is relatively fresh. When I mean allot of miles, I mean 328K on the clock. The gearbox is due for replacement and the engine is getting worn. I need to re-power it with something a bit more fun. I have wanted to build a frankenmotor for it with a spare EJ25 I have, and drop in a fresh trans, but… In corner number two, and going to the chop shop regardless of what I decide. Is a 2002 WRX that has been the salt commuter. It’s rusty but can live for a few more years with good care. Know it’ll make someone cry to get rid of a bugeye WRX sportwagon, but this one has served well and deserves to live on. I’d really love to swap the WRX drivetrain into the Legacy. I have the pedal box to go from cable to hydro clutch solved. Wiring is a non issue. Shift linkages, bla bla bla.. Body shop for a hood scoop. Yes all these things I pretty much have no issues with. If anyone has experience or input, I’d be happy to hear. But my main problems are: 1) What crossmember should I run? Do I need to consider the turbo oil pan for clearances, and if so might it cause me to change the rack? 2) Swapping the rear diff. Going from 4.11 to 3.90, it will need it. It should bolt in directly, but will I need custom axles? I think I can run the WRX rear axles and maybe hubs in a pinch. I am still in the process of acquiring the WRX to at least flog around for a while, but any gotcha’s anyone can see me running into that I haven’t considered? So far, I have found a handful of swaps done into other stuff, even one SS. But very scant info. Mostly WRX into early Impreza stuff. Any info is helpful.

Well it has been quite a while since I have been around here. But i am back and many new (HA HA old) Projects to work on. But this one is a big one, it is dealing with the EA81 Hydraulic valve big bore motor. Well I could use some Intake and Exhaust valve dimensions so that I can cross them to the correct valve. Since I know that this is a Hydro motor I dun want to get the wrong thing here after all. There are not many options out there for the EA81. Parts are scarce. (I Know I know swap it to a EJ. I will get there and remember I want to keep this one as OE as possible.) So any help would be great. Things I need Valve Dimensions for the EA81 big and small valve head. Valve Part numbers I can cross reference. Or do I take a plunge and buy the 35 dollar set of valves on ebay. A little about the BRAT. 1) I bought it in 1996 for my mother with 120,000 miles on the clock for $2000 2) It has been in daily service until 2008 and then driven here and there until mothers death when it sat for a couple years. 3) Yes it is a 1983 GL with all the toys, camper, and bull bar. In black. 4) Question? Why does it have a hydro valve motor out of a latter car. Answer. In 2001 when I moved cross country I had another BRAT at the time a 1985 model with a strong engine in it. Her engine had very low oil pressure and even with a new pump it did not come up. So the new pump went on the 165K Hydro Motor and into the car it went. It is now at 224,000 the motor was put in about 140,000 So yeah it is due for valves.

Cured, somewhere along the lines I forgot to turn the carrier bearing 180 degrees. So for all those out there doing lifts. Carrier bearing 180 degrees and then a 1 inch spacer between the body and the bearing seems to do the trick. Drive line whip cured.

Well here is a good one and I have hunted pretty deep for the answer to this. But anyways 90 Loyale, 4 inch SJR lift circa 2013, EJ22 swap, D/R trans. Here is my issue. I have some nasty drive line whip going on at very low speeds under a load to the rear end. I have dropped the center bearing two times in attempts to alleviate this annoyance. What is the correct distance to lower the center bearing of the drive line after a 4 inch lift to rid myself of this nasty vibration. I do not remember anything in the photos that came with the lift so many years ago. Now that Totoro is driven almost daily off road it needs to be cured before I start taking out U joints and the center bearing.

Ok, I have done a fair bit of digging on this one and first off, we are dealing with a 1994 Series 1 L Wagon in Cranberry that has been upgraded with a 94 LSi Rear Sway bar. She is also row your own with 224K on the clock. The commute is from Benton CA to Walker CA ... Daily (Oh I know all of you would love this commute, it is quite demanding in places) Nasty Altitude changes. I do cross 8100 + Feet as a routine and can dip down as low as 4000 ft and go as high as 11,000 depending on route. The question. Who the hell sells slotted only rotors? I do not mind popping a few extra bucks. But all I can find is drilled or drilled and slotted. IN my case with the weight of the car (3100 no driver 1/2 tank of fuel... I have a scale along my commute at each stop. *Transfer stations*) I am leery of drilled because of abuse, cracking, less surface area, ect. I would rather buy a really good blank and send it off with my machinist friend at the local AFB and have him give me three slots for, the wipe of the pad I want, so I have a good bite point. If there are no just slotted rotors out in wild blue yonder.. Granted this car does not get driven in the snow much. Rule is, snow at home, take Stella (87 DL in Poverty spec with SR 5 cog) So I do not feel bad about dropping on good stuff. Why slots or drills, well I am that fine line between track and hard daily driving. I want that reassuring bite. Trust me I have been bedding in brakes for a long time, she needs some wiping power. YES I would love larger stuff, but I am sort of unwilling to give up my 14 inch GT wheels. Another question, Can I slap the turbo vented in the rump roast with out changing anything else? Some say yes, some say no. How bout a bunch of yes's so I do not have to second guess then need a bracket or some such. Last and final, large one. Up here at high altitude. I could use some more OOMPH, and have been doing quite a bit of research into Frankenmotor ..In Particular the EJ25D with EJ22E duel port heads and a set of Delta's (Lazy driver, give me torque) How is the detonation with Premium California Cat Piss at High Altitude. I run Shell Mid in my stock meticulously maintained EJ22E and she returns 25.9 to 28.1 depending on AC and speed with out much detonation less it is hot outside. (Over 90 out and I might get a ping and knock back of timing every once in a while on goosing it below 2K.) Has anyone boxed there rear longitudinal rear? I mean it is flimsy and here ever time I look at it (Body at front to front of rear rear hub.) I go insubstantial. It is just upturned C channel asking for a monkey with a floor jack. (Not the rods from diff housing to hub this is F to R body to hub) YES she is getting pulled from rotation at 230,000 and parts I have so far are... Bearings W/ seals for hubs. Breaded Lines Swaybar Upgrade rear. Bushings for everything but lateral links. Rubber not poly, sorry. KYB GR2 Struts Strut Bearings all round Bellows, bumpstops and Rack boots Rack Rods w Tie Rod end. Repack axles since I am in there and I have a itty bitty spitter from a stone on the passenger side inner. So now it is just.. what do I do about getting a better bite for better transition of weight at either Wild Rose or down the 6 into Benton crossing. Brakes folks. Tidbits. 2 Owner car.. Never in a accident. Clutch and major serivce at 200,000 miles (12/13) with a gearbox. (Roll off in first folks, I inherited the launched gearbox from the family from San Diego) TB WP Tensioners, Thermostat W housing and all hoses, plugs.. I have a alignment rack.. she is razor straight. I commute nasty roads. I am shooting for half a million on this one before I pull her from rotation. Hey, good alignment set ups so I do not grind the outside edges because of sudden transitions?

The best way. Top left boot is wiper washer. Go down into the left quarter panel after removing the plastic, pull the hose off the pump and feed it back of the D pillar. Top Right boot is electrical. Do the same thing, there is a multi pin connection down by the tail light on the right hand side. You undo it and feed it up. TOP TIP. Before you remove -YOUR- Hatch. When you pull your squirter line or your electrical line. Tie some strong string on the end and when you pull the cable up, pull the string up. Cut string and tie off on top, and when you want to feed it back down. You have a string you can tie on and pull it back down. YMMV, Hope this helps and the rest of it is straight forward.

Remove the inside plastic panel from the hatch, undo all wiring connectors and thread wiring back through the top of the hatch, popping the rubber grommets out as you go. Some do have electrical at the top. Hang on let me look, got a 98 I am stripping.

That is a standard Bosch part. Find any car with Bosch CIS or some with AFC (Datsun 280Z/ZX Toyota pickups with EFI, Opel Manta, pre 83 Volvos and Mercedes the list is very -long-) It is called the air bypass valve. Plumb one end of it after the throttle body, and one end before the throttle body. Supply 12 volts to it and off you go. It uses a small heater and a bi metallic spring to slowly close a shutter so that when cold it will act like the throttle is being held slightly open, and when it closes you return to normal operation. If your ECU happens to control mixture via CTO more than throttle body you should be in the clear. If not a temperature controlled solenoid on the throttle body is your next step (If you have a TPS that controls mixture and no air flow meeter) I can draw you a diagram for one that is vacuum controlled (You can get the throttle kicker from 80's Japanese cars that have AC, that is how they raise the idle when the AC is turned on). Just options. Example of the valve. If you need to see how they are plumbed I can take a picture of my Peugeot. http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Auxiliary-Air-Regulator-Valve-Bosch-0280140126-fits-320i-1-8L-80-83-/190648829594?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c638e469a&vxp=mtr New ones run about 80 bucks.

The main rear (IE 5th gear) bearing? It is a bit of a slip fit in the case with no thrust washers or even a keeper like the input. Just a snap ring. So the bearing sort of is there in the case with nothing to keep it save the big half moon thrust washer (that.. well is massive) There was no galling on the case for that bearing and 5th is silent.

Box is back in the Burgundy. Drove it a bit.. it is quieter, but not silent. (but then I had the shift boot loose). got it over the drip pan to see if I got leaks. Clutch is way better and the noises while shifting at high RPM's are gone. Full verdict? Tuesday when I head off the hill and go to town at a high rate of speed. Then we will know if the front leaks. I am keeping my spare box just encase though. Beer 30 time! Thank you ALL!

Ok got all my stuffs and put the transmission back together. The new pilot bearing has a little play on the nose of the input shaft but nothing too bad. I would like it tighter but meh. Now here are my questions I have looked all over for. I have got the new bearing in there and everything, new seal. The side to side play is allot less, perhaps 1/16th of a inch.. but the thrust play is still there. Any ideas what the allowable thrust and side to side play of the input shaft is. I mean there is a long way to go from the input bearing to the tip of the shaft. And I dun wana have to drop this box twice.

RE: GeneralDisorder Well just encase I downloaded the speedi sleeve catalogue, and it looks like there may be one and only one option since ... well it is the smallest sleeve they sell.. Nominal Shaft Diameter 0.472 (as I recall the inside diameter of the bearing is 0.4724) Shaft Diameter range.. 0.469 to 0.475 Stock number 99049 Price WOO even my price 20 bucks! Smallest one they make, and we will see if I need it. I will get back to you all once my parts come in.

RE: Davebugs Well the snout on mine is fine, it is the tip of the input shaft is what is.. rather borked. I did check for sleeves in other threads, but all were for throw out bearings. RE: GeneralDisorder I was thinking about a speedy sleeve, but I was not sure if they made anything that small. I will jump on that train when my parts get here. (Everything has to be shipped in). Once I have my new pilot bearing in my hand (along with the rest of the stuff) I will head down to town (hour drive) and see if they can hook me up at steeves for a sleeve. Nice to know it is a common bearing. Really hoping I don't have to sleeve it at all, but with out the new bearing in my hand who knows. Best to get some info before hand since I have to go to town Friday anyways.

Morning folks. Well finally got around to pulling the gearbox out of the 95 Burgundy. Went ahead and split the case to check the input bearing and to change the seal since she was puking really nice. She was also sounding like a spun bearing when you shifted in the lower gears at high RPM. Well the input shaft looked good where the input bearing rides. (Thank the gods, I had some pretty nice whine in 1st and 2nd gears. 3/4 was quieter and 5th silent so the rear bearing should be good) Once I dropped the clutch I found where my noise was coming from at higher (over 3750 RPM shifts) shift points.. Pic is worth 1000 words.. Once I saw that I went and looked at the input shaft and things look a touch worn down. So I tapped the bearing out, stuck it on the tip of the input shaft and.. we got WAY to much play for my comfort zone. So here is the question. Has anyone ever sleeved the tip of the input shaft where it slips into the pilot bearing to cause the fit to be proper. I do -not- feel like buying a input shaft and then pressing all the gears off ect ect ect. Am I about to go into uncharted no mans land of Subaru, make it work things here? Not like it matters to me, I like doing odd ball stuff. Yes my synchros are all good, and the rest of the bearings are all good. The inside of the gearbox looks just pretty.

This is what we used the blue BRAT for in the summers.... This is when.. well I went shiny side down.. and after we flipped her over... And here is old blue in a state of rebuild...