808Legacy
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Posts posted by 808Legacy
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94 Legacy Fwd SW
The door lock doesn't turn at all, the ignition has to be backed off after the first try and angled just right on the second try. I've posted about that before, but thought I'd start over since now I'm thinking about doing both.
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I need to replace my driver's door cylinder and my ignition cylinder, so I am thinking that I ought to go ahead and replace the passenger and rear door cylinders to match. Does anyone know if I can replace all of them with one set, or do I need to go to a locksmith to re-key the working ones and match them all?
Thanks in advance!
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Ok, I need to tap the starter/solenoid to see if that helps, but I also probably need to replace the key cylinder inside, as I'm hearing that from a couple places. Turns out, the driver's side door lock cylinder doesn't work at all, so I need to replace that too.
Does anyone know if I can I replace both or all on the car with the same new key (ie, do these come in kits for the whole car) or do I need to see a locksmith?
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so, if it is warped, it can be machined? I thought that was only for smoothing out the grooves? I'd much rather do that!
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well, they only ship to continental 48, I'd have to go through some 3rd party shipping service. It gets complicated with getting stuff out here. Good link to have, though, thanks.
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Yes, Napa is a little more, but only choice on the island (I guess I could ask a few mechanics around too). I won't deal with junk yard, then. Ordering one on line isn't really an option either, as shipping to Hawaii is astronomical.
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I wasn't planning on rebuilding anything. Forgive my confusion, you mean the starter motor under the hood, right? So, you think it is the motor rather than the solenoid and not a key lock cylinder issue at all? I'll start by tapping starter (solenoid and motor).
I just answered my own question looking online- they're only sold as the same unit, starter and solenoid, it looks like.
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Thanks for that tip, I'll start there. I guess I need to take the brake apart and inspect everything first. When I replaced CV, pads looked ok, rotor didn't appear too rough (but warped I don't know, probably not a visual thing, right?)
Might be limited on source for new one, as it's on Maui. Napa is only parts store on island. There are a couple junk yards I can check out too, but they're about as limited (and everything rusts over here real fast).
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so, I ought to replace the disc, right? no way to turn it and fix that, I'm assuming?
thanks for your help!
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I've made a few posts about this 94 Legacy "project car" that has a few minor issues. I just replaced both front CV axles, which I had hoped would solve it's jiggling and shuddering, which seems to come and go. Well, it makes less noise with the new CV's, no more clicking when turning, yet it still does the shuddering, sometimes more, sometimes less, and I feel it in the steering wheel, and seems to be originating from the front passenger side. I read somewhere that it could be either a warped brake disc or a bad/stuck brake caliper. Wheel did not jiggle at all when I replaced CV axle, so I'm thinking wheel bearings aren't issue (but what do I know?).
Help! This is driving me nuts!
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Trying to determine if this symptom is a bad ignition switch? Anyone have any ideas? Per my previous post, I did clean the solenoid connections a little, but probably not as well as I could if I took it out. Not sure if it made a difference.
I can still seem to start it after 1st or 2nd try, but my ex tried to drive it and had a heck of a time getting it to start at all. I tried to coach her on it, like angling or twisting the key just a little when she turns the key.
If I did have to replace just the switch, I've read and seen on youtube that this is relatively easy, but the lock cylinder is a little more complex.
Thanks in advance!
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Ok, time to flush heater core. Radiator was flushed yesterday (it's basically brand new anyway). There was minimal sediment in flush. Wish Haynes was more clear about flsuhing heater core, but I guess that's why I'm here!
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Get a new thermostat from Subaru, not a cheapo aftermarket, replace all the hoses, and refill with 50/50.
The thermostat isn't opening all the way and likely has too high of a temperature rating.
The heater core is part of the bypass circuit which keeps hot coolant flowing to the thermostat. This is because the thermostat is on the inlet side of the water pump, meaning COLD coolant (in a relative sense) is flowing across the thermostat at all times. This will cause the thermostat to close, generally only in cold weather but it can happen other times as well, particularly when the thermostat is clogged or partially jammed. The flow through the bypass circuit keeps the thermostat open by keeping warm coolant flowing over it. This keeps it from closing and blocking the flow of coolant through the block. Obviously blocked flow means the coolant in the block will overheat.
So, no thermostat. It's Hawaii. Replaced bottom radiator hose and trimmed off cracked part of the small hose right above thermostat housing. Ran pretty good rest of today until tonight when I tested the heater again. Why would heater be causing this overheating thing (per my last post)?
A side note: I swear too, that my past Subarus (an 83 GL, a 92 Legacy LS, then two subsequent 91 and 93 Legacys) normal temp level was at about 1/3 on the gauge. This one seems to like halfway, but others here are saying that is normal.
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Needle started rising again, burped it again tonight, twice with heater on full blast outside Walmart. Ran fine for rest of night, until, when almost home, I decided to test the heater again after climbing hill. Heat came on, then, turned lukewarm and needle started to rise, though not as high as the other night.
Is this a heater core issue? I guess I need to flush the heater core now?
Is this an air pocket in the heater core line?
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Ok, replaced hose and voila! NO thermostat. so, mechanic must have taken it out. Asked local Napa guy about it and he said a lot of people in Hawaii with older cars take out the thermostat. So, I'll leave it out.
Flushed cooling system, now about to start 'er back up! Wish me luck!
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Sounds more like a bad ignition switch. The contacts in the starter solenoid are known to go bad on these, but that has nothing to do with holding the key in the right spot.
By ignition switch, do you mean the switch at the steering wheel? Ignition seems to have multiple meanings.
So, after that cleaning of the contact end it did make it easier than previously to start, but the key still needs to come back just a smidge. Only difference is that now it starts up on first try dependably rather than taking 3-4 tries. I guess I need to take the starter motor out and really clean the female contact.
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Get a new thermostat from Subaru, not a cheapo aftermarket, replace all the hoses, and refill with 50/50.
The thermostat isn't opening all the way and likely has too high of a temperature rating.
The heater core is part of the bypass circuit which keeps hot coolant flowing to the thermostat. This is because the thermostat is on the inlet side of the water pump, meaning COLD coolant (in a relative sense) is flowing across the thermostat at all times. This will cause the thermostat to close, generally only in cold weather but it can happen other times as well, particularly when the thermostat is clogged or partially jammed. The flow through the bypass circuit keeps the thermostat open by keeping warm coolant flowing over it. This keeps it from closing and blocking the flow of coolant through the block. Obviously blocked flow means the coolant in the block will overheat.
Someone local here told me to just take the thermostat out, as it's not really needed in a tropical climate. Coldest it ever gets here is 70 degrees. That would preclude me from driving it up Haleakela, however (10,000 ft). I winced at that notion. I finally got the hex socket to unscrew the engine coolant reservoir. Something tells me this is going to be messy. I'll look at the thermostat and compare it to the pics I've seen on here. Napa sells a Tama for $21, which I'm told is OEM.
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If holes are not large, JB Weld does a good job of patching to repair.
If it were me, I would still pull one of the spark plugs. Even though you were told that the car had a "tune up," that may or may not be true.
Good idea, I ought to get practice doing that anyway.
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Just put a tape patch kit on 2 small holes on the side of the muffler today.
It is the original muffler: genuine Subaru
Seems to make a slight difference, maybe a 20% sound reduction.
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Got tuned up in last year, according to last owner.
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Ok, I'll just take it in. It really seems to be the original muffler. a couple small holes on the side, so maybe I'll try patching first (just for fun).
In general, though, exhaust leaks can cause bad starts/stalling?
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Ok, Maui cruiser minor project car with 166K bought from an elderly couple (original owners) who seemed to keep it up to a point (Viagra, get it?). It's a 2wd, automatic. Got it for $1500 with the struts that needed to be put in (which were).
Here's this threads question: Why is it making a throaty sound near the rear when I accelerate? I would guess it to be the muffler, but maybe something else?
Side question: I know this is a Subie forum, but since this is also about a muffler, I also have a Volvo 740 GLE that is missing it's rear muffler and seems to stall out on random occasion, often not wanting to start the first or second time, sometimes at a stop sign, once while on the road. Any ideas what the heck that's about? I read that a exhaust problem is within the realm of possibility.
Thanks again in advance!
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My 94 Legacy starts only after I nudge the key back just a tiny bit after the first try. Sometimes this takes 3 or 4 tries, sometimes just once. It always clicks the first time.
I checked the pull-out connector for corrosion (didn't see much) and cleaned it as well as I could with a wire brush. I tried to get the wires into the female end on the starter from below, but it was really hard to get to. I also cleaned off a little rust on the underside connection after removing the rubber cover.
I tried to run a wire from the positive battery terminal to the starter with the plug-in connector out as suggested by the Haynes manual, but nothing. It was a lower gauge wire with clamps, not a jumper cable per se. Battery is very new and not at issue.
I'm wondering if I need to replace the solenoid or starter or both or if this is an key ignition switch issue. I realize it would help to take it out to clean it more. I checked for wiring cracks (but most of it is encased in that flexible plastic tubing).
I've read a few other starter posts, but none seem to address this type of "need to pull back a tiny bit to make it start in just the right way". I'm a little concerned that eventually it won't start at all, as this happened to me recently with a Chevy S10 I was borrowing (the key had to be turned just the right way to start).
This has become a bit of a minor project car I got in February, yet have driven very minimally. Check engine light comes on periodically, yet not every time.
Thanks in advance for any insights!
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Ok, thanks all of you for your tips!
94 Legacy starting issue
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Thanks. Red herring is right! Now I'm also wondering, from reading around, if it's a worn out key (it is an 18 year old car, after all). It does click each time, sometimes it even starts the first time. It was a really fun trying to coach my ex to turn the key just the right way too (not).
So, I'll go in this order: a) tapping starter/solenoid,
taking starter out and cleaning contacts thoroughly, c) take out key cylinder and inspect to see if key is lining up, d) replace key cylinder, e) replace starter/solenoid
From what I'm understanding, I might be able to tinker with the door lock cylinder to get it to work again, so I'll try that.