turbosubarubrat
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Posts posted by turbosubarubrat
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The stock lines work fine for a ej22E swap it would be a different story if you swapped in a ej257 with a fat turbo and huge injectors. I've ran my ej22 swap for a couple years with no problems without a surge tank.
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The EA81 throttle cable will not work
It does you just have to make a bracket for it to mount correctly.
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A toyota w series transmission with a adapter plate would hold up to the turbo ej power from what i've read. I would swap in a r180 if i was going to do it. The rear cv's are going to grenade or the stub on the control arm is going to break at some point.
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are craftsman tools still being made or did they get shipped to China like the rest?
Everything from craftsman is pretty much made in china and taiwain anymore.
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What pistons are you using? I think the 22t pistons will be above the deck if you put them on the 2.5D rods. Do you know what you're compresion ratio is gonna be?
that's my reason for de-stroking......lower compression while also being better at spinning up the RPMs quickly. Also the 25d has smaller rod bearings- no bueno Might need to get some 257 pistons.
Mine will likely go into my 89 XT, as it's already got a turbo crossmember. But it might see time powering my Rat Rod FWD 80 DL wagon.
I haven't set all the details in stone yet because of the machine work that is needed. I'm going to go with a set of JE pistons. I have the case halves prepped to go to bearing services to be bored over, line bored, and i'm thinking about getting the thrust bearings relocated.
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Your going to need to get a different gas tank or figure out how your going to hook up a fuel return line to your current set up. These early ones didn't come with them and your going to need one for the ej swap. Your going to need a fuel injected pump off a loyale if your going for used parts. You could move the carb pump to the rear as a lift pump with a surge tank to feed the high pressure pump in the engine bay or just use a high pressure pump in the rear.
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I have this s-k 3/8 ratchet it's a 3/8 in a 1/4 body haven't had any problems with it since it never sees any torque that would break it https://sktools.com/shop/45173-4-5-3-8-drive-slim-ratchet.html. My families nursery has had the same one for 40 years. I've sent a couple ratchets to s-k in the mail to get rebuilt and they just send you a new one. If your working in a tight space these gearless ratchets work great especially if a regular ratchet has to much friction to turn a nut off because it's loose but you can't get your fingers on it https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-2-Piece-Gearless-Ratchet/dp/B0009IQ2BE
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What are you putting that in? I'm going the opposite direction stroking a ej22T closed deck block with a 2.5 crank and rods. I'm going to use a set of ej22E heads with delta cams with roller rockers. I have a TD04 to put on it which should be plenty for my 82 glf. I have a ej22T harness like you but i'm going with a early jdm wrx ecu with a ESL daughter board to tune it.
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If you have a good snap on dealer they will replace the whole ratchet with a new if they can't source a rebuild kit.Those look like the ratchets marketed in the 70s & 80s by Proto & S-K. Good luck finding a rebuild kit for it.
I can't even get ratchet internals for my "baby 3/8" Snapon that I've had since the 70's. Essentially it was a 1/4 drive ratchet body with 3/8 drive guts & great for tight spaces.
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https://store.snapon.com/Dual-80-174-Technology-chrome-3-8--3-8-Drive-Dual-80-Technology-Standard-Bent-Handle-Flex-Head-Ratchet-P889615.aspx It's worth the money if you use it all the time. The only ratchets I buy anymore are the dual 80 series from snap on. I haven't had one break yet even after daily use. I would also recommend buying one of their 1/4 extra long ratchets there a foot long they work great on valve covers and tight spaces. I use s-k ratchets quite a bit at home and would recommend this one https://sktools.com/shop/3770-10-8-3-8-drive-flex-ratchet.html can be found for about $60 on amazon. They are great ratchets just not as compact as the snap on ones.
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I've had 6 new windshields with gaskets put in the past couple years for around $220 installed. Find a different glass company with better connections.
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You can mount a ej backing plate on the back with some modification but you need xt6 rear hubs.It looks like I was too slow and missed out on the rear hubs, bugger. XTs are extremely rare in the U.K., I think it's the only one I've ever seen.
What's the alternative for a rear disc setup?
First off I already know the difference between a xt and a xt6. Already have the support tube made and all the parts to put the suspension together 10 different ways. All the stuff your giving me spoob about can be corrected if you know how to weld, machine, and fabricate. If axles prove to be a issue I will rwd swap it using a brz or Supra transmission with a Dana 44. But I doubt it. The axles I've measured compressed have been the same between ea82 and 1st gen ej's. The differences people could be having is aftermarket axles vs factory. I'll add to the 5 lug swap write up if I ever get the car done. I'm rebuilding a closed deck ej22t for mine and am shooting for 250hp with ECL tuning.People who properly 5 lug swap use XT6 axles. Impreza axles are too long and will bottom out. People run them, but at great risk to longevity and safety.
Plus EJ balljoints don't fit the EA control arm without modification and blah blah all kinds of stuff to work around. Can be done. Not gonna happen in this case since this is a 4cyl 4 lug XT he's talking about getting parts from. and I don't think they got XT6 in Scotland.
4 lug XT rear discs are excactly the same as the 5 lug rears, which again, he won't be getting.
I'm hearing alot of "i'm gonna" this and that in your post. Let me know when you've actually done something then chime in on how things will or won't work.
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Imp axles will not fit an EA82 crossmember. And if you were gonna go that route, just use 25 spline EA82 axles.
And he's talking turbo xt which is 4cyl so no 5-lug.
The EA82 crossmember can be fitted, but will be much wider than the EA81 wheel wells.
Impreza axles will fit a ea82 cross member otherwise there would be nobody with a 5 lugged swapped 3rd gen. He's going to need a 5 lug swap in order to have safe braking with a turbo ej engine which is why i said it. The factory ea brakes even with the disks on the back are just asking for trouble. With the ej knuckles you can swap in a new oem 4 pot brake kit that can be found for around $500. Unless he wants to make custom axles you have to widen the track on a ea81 car. It's about 3 inches wider with the setup so 1.5" per side which could be corrected with different offset wheels. I'm swapping out the rear torsion bar for a custom support tube to run rear struts on my 82 glf. This lets you use ea82t or xt6 rear trailing arms to have a rear sway bar and widen the rear track the same as the front. I'm going to run coil overs up front since they're about the only thing that fits in the strut tower and they help with camber adjustment. I've messed around with the ea81 axles and it took about 20 axles to get a set of shafts to put ej outer joints on. Any way he goes he needs to mod a ea cross member for the up pipe to fit even if it is a ea turbo cross member.
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If it has power steering will the rack fit the brat?
It will if you swap cross members and control arms which requires some modifications to do. If you go that route you can use 1st gen impreza/legacy awd front axles to mate up to a ej transmission and ej front knuckle assembles for when you do the 5 lug swap.
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This if it's the hoses http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,1990,loyale,1.8l+h4,1270055,brake+&+wheel+hub,hydraulic+hose,1792. If it's the hard lines you need to buy a double flare tool and replace the section that's rusted away.
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The little pin is the only thing holding the lock cylinder in assuming you already took out all the warning chime parts. If drilled out perfectly with a drill bit slightly larger than the pin the rest of the pin will come out with a magnet. If you have the pin drilled out enough it should just pull out with a right angle pick. The only thing it's hanging up on is the burrs from drilling out the pin.
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I've done a bunch of them if you drill the pin out perfect it will come out with a magnet after about 1/8". After that the switch will pull out with a 90 degree pick.
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If your tires are different diameters even from more tread wear on one the smaller tire will become the only driven side in most conditions. How are the motor mounts? The oreilly axle is most of your problem.
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Quick search saw one for $68.98 shipped off amazon. I got mine through my work which has whole sale accounts through parts suppliers. If mine decides to go out i can get it warrantied no problem for another which hopefully shows up as a OE performance. That axle is built better with tighter tolerances and fit snug on the stub shaft.
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The Oreilly axles are garbage they can't hold up to the power of a ej22 out of the box. I couldn't get one that wouldn't make noise out of the box even after 6 axles. They would pop, grind, or shake. I found a factory one that i have ran for quite awhile but finally swapped it out with empi so i can reboot it for a spare. It's held up so far after about 100 miles. I have a original performance brand axle on the other side that has a few thousand miles on it now with no problems.
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Quit buying shitty axles.
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EA82 axles do not fit in EA81 knuckles so they damn sure don't fit in EA71 knuckles.
The front and rear wheel bearings are literally the same between all three. You can also run all 3 generations of front hubs depending on your wheel center. Only thing that really changes with the axles are the shaft length and strength.
Then EA82 balljoints don't fit in ea81 control arms...
The ball joints are the same. xt6 or ej ball joints have a different taper and you have to ream out the hole in the control arm for when you do a 5 lug swap using ej spindles.
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83 BRAT Build Thread with Questions
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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You need to wire up a fan harness from scratch with a relay if you didn't keep the ej setup. The ecu controlled fan control is far more reliable than the thermo switch. I wired the fan control wire off the ecu to a toggle switch (just in case of high water or snow) then to the relay.