RXJ

will prob revisit this car next week Pizza and 12 pack of soda? that shts bad for you Not to get off topic but I'm about to purchase a replacement 93 Suby 2 WD Standard and the owner say it growls in the first two gears, always has,... and doesn't seem to be a problem Why would that be?

thanks the car is in Vermont, wish I'd taken pics I spent some time, (not enough) trying to figure where it could be rewelded / reworked I searched but didn't find anything info here... does anyone or do you, A.S.,have pics of a repair? Too much work and luv has gone into this vehicle to send it to the scrap yard Looking for encouraging news (will try to get pics but I'm 4 hrs away now) Many thanks

Mechanic declared my 93 Loyale unsafe for the road The drivers side rear stut is losing structure at the top due to rust... Have put lots of luv into this car....is it done?

"It may not be as bad as presumed". you nailed that, miles... the bolt wasn't stripped at all...plus the spare in the trunk had it's own bolt regardless...AND it's own lower bolt un-stripped .. fuzzy fanatical thinking on my part.. It turned out a simple swap was all that was needed and I arrived with the correct terminal clamps which were needed... my kid fails the turning of the screw test (and he did, so he claims use a 12mm socket after the towing) but hey.. great day for a motorcycle ride, see my kid, see my car...all's good in the hood thanks again

many thanks Miles... the only tools he had were the original Suby tool pack, I'm guessing the open end wrench just couldn't do the trick.... I know, i know.. why didn't i supply the car with a real tool kit...my fault in a few ways and thanks Gloyale, I was just about to follow up with that again many thanks you guys

Gave my Loyale to my son...he had problems on the highway she died, sounded exactly like alterantor failure, I had a spare alternator in the trunk, he tried to change it out, stripped the bolts. The car I have spent so much time luvingly repairing, knowing I'd get 300,000 miles out of, was towed and has been sitting on some side street in Providence for over a month. I told him to charge the battery, take the car to auto parts and have them check the alternator. He tried to remove the battery and cboth battery terminal clamps have broken off, the wire so rusty is the claim...the car still sits while he attends school, too busy, too green to solve these smple issues. I can't take it anymore, I'm heading out for a 300 mile round trip to get it going see what's up, hoping the new clutch I luvingly put in is still gripping, hoping I'm still remembered...I can hear it now "thank god you're back"...from the car. What size bolts, diameter and length are the two alterantor bolts?..it sounds as if both are stripped. For the lower bolt I'll need to go longer and put a nut on it For the upper, from what I understand I gotta cut the thing out and replace. And the battery terminal clamps ...my memory says they are of a smaller diameter than standard... am I hallucinating? Heading out tomorrow morning, motorcycle trip, need ducks in a row.. many thanks for reading my vent and any size info

Problem solved.... and this problem was not confined to winter start ups, it lingered well into this summer, wasn't getting any better.. I previously swapped out my air control module, cleaned the Mass Air flow sensor... I haven't re-read this thread but am sure the answer was offered .....it was the Coolant Temperature Sensor......BUT in the process of ordering the Coolant temp sensor I made a mistake and ordered a the fan switch sensor (which screws into the radiator)...so what the hell, threw that in too. Both Coolant Temperature switch and Coolant Temperature Sensor went in on the same day but I believe the Coolant Temp Sensor was the culprit. As long as I was screwing around I threw in a new thermostat... Take from all of this what you will. The car is running better she than ever and now belongs to my kid. MAny Many thanks to everyone here

okay..i thought so...just a pry job/friction thing.. many thanks

1993 Loyale EA82 TODAY..right now I'm trying to remove the thermostat. She's stuck...i think. How do I get it to pop out without damaging it....I'm not even sure it's bad, just figured I may as well replace it before I give the car to my kid...and I do remember the car running somewhat hot at random times. I don't want to damage it just in case whatever. This is just a friction fit right?? It should just pop out when I pull up right?

bank scenario from above..i eat crow...not an internet scam...bank fkd up...cashed a check to my account that had a similar account number #

AAHHHHhhhhhh!! :-) i told ya maybe i did something dumb...well i think i'll change out everything heading to the bank

I basically did exactly this^^(the only difference I think was a 70-90 oil cause that's what they had)..thanks again Ivan for another save... I think this overall quantity may be one liter too much.. I could be wrong...I DON'T CARE....if Ivan says do it..I do it...and the quantities went in as diredcted Results: the first few days/ 90 miles or so.. I had doubts, it was still a little notchy (thanks for the word wonderwedge)....I began to re-think my clutch adjustment AND began to think of draining the new fluid in order to put in something super heavy. I stored the car a couple weeks due to needing to be driving the truck (another project, another forum) ..Ivan, you know anything about Ford F250s? getting off track here I hesitate to go overboard with excitement for fear of jinxing what's transpired while she sat. The shifting is now SIGNIFICANTLY smoother...I, personally, would never grind a gear with this mix...please let my son become one with this mix. Maybe it was the 300 mile round trip yesterday that stirred the special cocktail into a uniform blend or maybe it's the heat of the summer. either way, I'm very happy

thanks guys

Miles, I was hopeful and let the part stay on order...truth is, I didn't have faith that a return transaction was really going to get the $ back into my account..and the following day my account mysteriously was depleted by $150.00...I'm heading to the bank this morn to find out what that's all about and I shouldn't cast suspicions on an internet order....and I may eat crow...it'll go well with all the rabbits I'm seeing inn the front yard.. I digress: it arrived....anybody need a TS183?...the diameter of threaded nut is too large for my Loyale.

I got some limited info from someone else's somewhat related thread ...I'm going for max exposure.....want someone to tell me yes or no.. My Loyale runs like a dream after she's warm (i been beating this dead horse for a while..no need to go into the other suspect causes... I know them all and getting the parts together) Question: When she's idling beautifully in neutral, I remove the mass air flow sensor connector and she dies immediately. Normal...yes or no? many thanks

thanks guys..i'm feeling better

okay this I believe is the sensor I want to replace...this is the coolant sensor right? Will the TX96 be right? bear with me, I don't have it all together tonight in the pic this is located just under what I believe is the thermostat housing...green connection leading to the nut insert...will TX96 work??

dammit... so I need to TX96? ##*^^////!!! I'm giving the car to my kid in a few days...need the right part just blew $35 thanks naru

In an unusual rush to order and get the lowest price I just ordered a Standard Motor parts TS183 as opposed to a TX96 I thought they were different company part # s but these are both Standard Motor Parts. I hope I ordered the right one, I need the thing fast.. The car's start ups have been boggy for a long time but she runs like a dream once warmed...I've narrowed it down to coolant sensor (i hope) from a past thread. What's the difference in those two? I think I'm going to hear something about temp ranges???

and thanks Ivan..so your suggesting I take lighter fluid and light it :-)) I'll try anything you suggest

sorry I don't know how the mulit quote works...prob like trying to teach my kid not to grind... NOTCHY...that's a great way to describe it...I'm going to adjust the clutch today but think it's at it's correct setting...the clutch has @ 10,000 miles, installed it myself last fall...<---maybe therein lies the problem :-)....

an amusing picture.. so true, so sad... :-) On a similar note, I was tired one day, let my S.O. drive ..she said she once used to own a manual / stick....we swap seats, I pull the passenger seat lever back to get some shut-eye.... @ 3 minutes prob, 5 grinds...suddenly I'm awake...no one else has ever driven the car again...

My son doesn't know how to drive stick yet and about to give my 1993 5 seed Loyale to him to shoot back and forth from Providence RI to Boston. I've put off this synchronicity question / fix whatever, forever because I know how to time my shifts...anyone else driving this, esp a newbie, will grind the gears... When shifting from gear to gear even when clutch (new clutch) is fully depressed, the urge to shift quickly needs to be relaxed.....if not there's a bump, bumbling of action before it getting it in gear..occasionally that will be a grind ......if a newbie does this, it will always be a grind. My solution this weekend is to change gear oil and hope that's all there is to it... ANy thoughts? ManyThanks

many thanks...prob auto seat belt control..

1993 Loyale Wagon This switch, control, sensor, whatever is ticking randomly when the car is turned off...it's tucked within the back rear panel, above the wheel well and between the rear door, drivers side of car....not far from the rear windshield washer tank...but doesn't seem to be involved with that....maybe the door lock system?? ...but that works as should.... What else is hidden in that back panel?? It's on the opposite side of the fuel pump... Many thanks