RXJ

many many thanks..that's what i wanted to hear i'm planning on 4 hours :-)

thanks to you guys for taking the time to post vids...mine's different for sure..it'll climb to 3000 on it's own if allowed... beiginning to think i should check my timing...my gas mileage hasn't been stellar lately jj421...holy moley man....maybe you should check timing also...I dunno

I'm about to install a new Moog ball joint, ordered off ebay. Tweaking it by hand, it feels really stiff with resistant friction..like a no lubrication thing . I've never held a new one before...is this normal?? I can see there's a rubber seal surrounding the ball but zero indication of any lube when levering the ball side to side by hand??? beautiful day to do this...happy t-day anyone? Wait a minute..am I supposed to fill the new rubber boot with grease???

post office Parole officer probation officer persistant offender police officer previous owner?? i'm increasing getting lost in this world. you have a son..it could be any one of the above :-))

Does it sound like it's "panting" ? I forgot my car used to do this.. in warm weather too...sitting at a stop light it would, at random moments, be panting like the family dog.. fwiw, i cleaned my mass air flow sensor (not the IAC) with the official spray (forget what it is at the moment..crv or somehing like that) a while ago and it hasn't helped morning bog down...I think i read here in a search that that particular sensor comes into play more so on the highway.. my latest trick, as of two days ago is to turn the key 3 times, without turning the engine over,to get the pump putting gas where it should be for an initial start.....I don't think this has done a damn bit of could but figure it couldn't hurt :-))

oh yeah it clears up once she drops to 1000 rpms and below..the car runs beautifully.. carry on, lots of good advice here...just venting a bit Ak, fuel pressure regulator...thanks..my brain is still like sludge

my brain is foggy right now...AK splain fpr please and yeah, I can't just hop in and go so maybe yur onto something 175, it has nothing to do with anyone stealing the car, it's just the 3000 rpms..I cringe at the thought of it running so high first thing in the morn, and it sounds brutal, so I sit and tap and like you say I can kick it down to 2000rpms but still not be able to drive away until it takes it upon itself to drop to 1000 and below. I have to turn the key once to start and stay off the gas, let her putter and then she climbs and keeps climbing.....if she by some chance doesn't start on the first turn of the key, then staying off the gas doesn't work for the next turn. On the next turn I have to floor it...she sounds as if it won't happen but then it starts....90% of the time first turn of key, stay off gas is good to start, 10% I have to floor it hoping she starts...and so far she always does...but the idle issue and the inability ti drive away immediately still remains...

well i swapped out my air control module with a used one found on ebay...cost $48 bucks, came in looking very new....nothing's changed....still have to sit in the car during the morn to tap the gas so it doesn't idle at 3000 rpms... My original module, which I saved, I tested it by applying direct 12 vots, the plunger moved at least...tested the new on the same way, plunger moved...i guess this doesn't test for any wear and I've yet to try the blow into the tube test... I don't wanna sit in my car during winter for 5 minutes till it kicks down to lower rpms....wouldn't mind if I could walk away to get a coffee....just venting a bit here..... let's say the modules are fine, both "new" and old....what next?

pretty sure we had one welded on long ago..i could be wrong.. it went to the scrap yard with the car

this is exactly what happens to mine and thanks for that input mikaleda and others

no, sorry xoomer...is it just when cold or when any moisture is in the air? I have a hard time walking away from the car letting it rev at really high rpms but that 5 minutes is about right. So the computer tells the control module to move the plunger ?..or it's been trying to move the plunger but it gets stuck? Is the plunger supposed to allow more air in at first start or less (i know this is a dumb question which I should know..this is really just a choke right...but anyway, which is it??)

see above^^ Again, the only suggestion I didn't use from this thread was the stretching the oil pressure springs. The reason I didn't make the attempt was because I'd already tightened up my valve covers, brand spankn new rubber seals and new grommets. I was trying to eliminate a phantom engine leak and, never having done this before, I didn't want to break the new seal I'd just obtained based on what I considered a theory...figured if the tick didn't disappear after just doing all new oil seals, new oil, new filter, then I'll do the stretching trick. As stated above, the ticking disappeared but only for 1600 miles. It returned, got louder, and lingered more often.... just couldn't take it anymore. Now with the engine in, making this a bit of a pain in the rump roast (but not horrendously difficult), I proceeded to see if Ivan's idea works. I'm officially here to say: THANK YOU IVAN, YOU ARE THE MAN!! (ok..maybe it's common knowledge amongst the regulars re: those springs but Ivan was the only one who spelled it out....well...) :-)) Stretching the springs has silenced the new ticking...I did nothing else. No cocktails, no heavier oil, not even topping off the level which was getting down to the need of a quart according to the dipstick. My goal was to verify Ivan's trick...I encourage said stretching when attempting to eliminate the TOD. The unstretched springs were not putting any pressure against the head of the 14mm bolt...is this necessary(?) I dunno, but I only stretched mine enough so that when re-installing the bolt the spring was slightly fighting the re-installation ....this stretch was only a little more than 1/4"....maybe it coulda been stretched more but for now I'm one happy camper. Thank You Again, Ivan

Thanks..yeah..prob the idle air control unit. It used to only happen during cold weather months, now it's everyday no matter what. Is the plunger stuck in the open position or closed when this happens?? Is there anything else that could be associated with the sudden drop in rpms?

Everyday the 93 Loyale, warm weather, cool matter, doesn't seem to matter, starts but I can't proceed. If I try to move too soon it'll bog down. I have to turn the key once and stay off the gas. It works itself to idling at 3000rpms...I can tap the gas to try to bring it back down to 2000 rpms but too much tapping causes more bogging down. I sit and wait. Suddenly,like a switch was activated it'll drop to 1000 rpms and I'm good to go. I lubricated my idle air control module, manually pushed the plunger, shot it with compressed air... The sudden drop of rpms, as a routine, still leads me to believe that module is the issue.. Anyone have other ideas? I did search and my head is spinning.. many thanks

Interesting this thread is back up...after 1600 miles of no tick after complete oil seal job mine is just beginning to "flutter" again...nothing drastic (yet), not very loud and it disappears down the road but reappears randomly. No engine leaks, dry as a bone. The ONLY trick I didn't try before the re-install was Ivan's suggestion of lengthening the oil pressure springs (i think that's in this thread)....if the noise gets worse, the first thing I'll be attacking are those springs.. I have high hopes that this'll add great validity to Ivan's suggestion seeing how everything else was done except that... Not looking forward to doing this now that the engine is back in but...

ah, it's the ol refined white flour on the distrib cap trick....why didn't I think of that :-)) I hear what yur saying 9, the cap's only a year old though..suppose I'll check it out.. Luv the trick above ...gotta do that just for the hell of it....forgot about WD40 drying things out too.. Thanks mik

i got a compressor for ya if yur near Ct

It doesn't run crappy...just struggles to start when damp... warmed up, it's okay..... Had it cut out on me a couple weeks ago after splashing thru puddles during the rain....was lucky to pull off to the side in town, get a coffee...got back in and it started.... I hear what yur saying about the distributor,,,,don't think it's that this time around...I know I just have to check all my connections from the re-install and seal off any wires hangn around....just thought someone might have the magic tracking device.... With tomorrow's weather, it might be interesting

I just went out and the 93 Loyale struggled to start...this only happens on a high moisture day and it's been happening for a few weeks... had my engine out for the clutch, belts, oil seals, waterpump.. reconnected all that I could but disconnected /removed AC...there's still some wires that do nothing just hanging around. Pretty sure the prob is not with my distrib cap.. suppose the wires just hangin around could be shorting out something? suppose it could be a loose ground or rusty connection? too late for work to post pics of what's just hanging around.. ..and no I didn't search... always forget the problem unless it's a high moisture day and now I gotta run.. any thoughts?..how to track it down? thanks..have a good day

Good Job...that was a big effort and many will be using as a reference..I know I will when I wanna know what's up with this, that and the other thing.. glad you got her running smoothly

I apologize for being slow on this..but I don't have the black wire connected to that AC line like you do..only the white.. ??

interesting...tomorrow I'll see if I have those same wires and try to duplicate what you got going on...pretty sure I got a white one disconnected and just laying in there, not so sure about the black

thanks 175...i'll be listening

thanks subruise... yeah that rusted track hasn't had a belt for a long time but the one closest to the alt is pretty shiny...kinda how I knew I put the belt on the right one...well, other than a visual misalignment thing.. did you sell your bracket yet? I'm happy with the jury rig..pretty solid..so far :-)....seriously I expect no problems

As long as this thread is back up (hope you figure out your prob jkinz) [fwiw..I used to be Rick James, but lost the account in a "new sign in info needed" snafu] ...here's a pic of the jury rigged alt bracket without the AC compressor.. it replaces the white paper towel in the above pic...it works fine, structurally sound, and can use the original belt. It's @ a 7" long 3/8" dia bolt, the "sleeve" is a section of "black pipe". Now a question... I removed the AC compressor, condensor, disconnected the lines/hoses anything I saw having to do with the AC....the stubs that appear to go into the glove box from the engine compartment, I sealed off. My question is....today I turned my fan on...Heat mode, BiLevel mode, etc and got the strongest rush of air movement when pushing the AC button...obviously I won't be getting cooled air.... is there anything I should be concerned about...left over freon or anything? edit: oh yeah, again I'll ask, how do you know if yur electric fan comes on at all while driving...like I said, I know mine works cause of a by pass test...maybe I just gotta get the engine all heated up then lift the hood?...is it as scientific as that?