terryb52

You don't think other things could have been damaged? Just want to do a thorough job. And it won't be me doing the work

I just found out I have coolant in the oil, not sure for how long. Last oil change was a couple months ago but only 300 miles ago. They didn't notice it but I'm not sure if they looked. The mechanic saw it today while working on something else. He changed the oil. I only drive a few miles a week so am wondering how long before I have to address this and whether I need to get a different motor rather than just fix the problem, whatever it turns out to be. I want to keep this car for years, 2003 Forester with 154k. No rust cause I bought it before I moved from Colorado. Any and all input appreciated.

And they said my oil looked like a milkshake! Just had it changed 300 miles ago. I told em to change it (it had been done by a different place).

Shop just called and said battery tested low so I will replace that and see what happens.

I think it was right after I bought the car in late 2010. Haven't put a lot of miles on it since then as I work about 8 blocks from home! Not sure if plugs are a time thing or a miles thing.

Well, it's the dreaded intermittent start problem. Started right up after sitting in below zero weather all night. Drove it to the shop and they will see if it's anything obvious. Possible connection problem somewhere. The headlights didn't come on last night when it wouldn't start, but the interior lights did.

It's off to the shop today so we'll see what it is.

The check engine light has been on for a while but the mechanic said it was not a priority. Tonight, in 10 degree weather my 2003 Forester decided not to start. Could there be a connection? I had to leave it in the parking lot and will have to have it towed to a shop tomorrow.

Yes, we got a lot of snow last year-- about 3 times a week all winter long! Other years not as much. But the issue, besides having to buy 2 sets of tires and wheels, is that I have no good place to store them. I had thought about it but seems as tho no one around here does that. Really surprised me cause in CO lots of folks had dedicated snow tires and the tire shops would store them for free. Maybe I will just get some good all season tires and not drive much in the snow like I did last winter. Kind of restrictive tho. Especially since most of the shopping is 25 miles away.

Well, because of that issue I stopped looking at the Hankkok Optimo 727 and got sold on the Toyo Open Country--- only to find out they no longer stock them in 215 60 16. Now I have to start a search for the 3rd time with all the hours of research UNLESS I decide to go back to my original choice of the Hankooks. Tire buying is a real pain!

I was looking at the forum on Consumer Reports and the tire guy there said he would never recommend "downgrading" the tires. Hence my concern. No, I don't drive fast, even when the limit is 75 I usually go 70. Like to save on gas. I live in northern IL so snow is an issue, last winter was a bear. My installer here (small town) has no problem with mounting a T tire but I just wanted some reassurance that I'm not messing up my car or putting myself in danger. The CR guy talked about stopping and avoidance issues with a lower rated tire at any speed. 2003 Forester 2.5X

I am tire shopping and was completely sold on the Hankook Optimo H727 tires based on all kinds of reviews. However I found out they are rated T and the 2003 Forester is supposed to have an H rated tire. Lots of Subaru owners have been using these tires according to the reviews. But I can't even buy them online from certain dealers because of the difference. Some installers won't install them. Why do some websites like Tire Rack say they are OK while others, like Discount say no? What is your experience and what tires would you recommend for midwest driving, average, 10K a year, all season? Thanks!

Thanks again. Heat does seem to be a factor. I will be taking it to a Japanese repair place that fixed my starter and did valve cover gaskets on my '92 turbo. Haven't noticed gas use but haven't driven very far either. That would definately be a factor in a trip to IL from CO. Going in Sept. but it was 95 last year in Oct out there.

OK, OK! No need to chastise me. The light did go off, that's why I asked. I also got 3 different opinions from 3 different mechanics. From add 44k to replace sensor. I will opt for replacing sensor and be done with it! Thanks for all the advice.

I forgot to update my sube info--- I sold my '92 turbo and now have a '98 OB (long story, wish i had my turbo). I don't do any work myself-- all at the shop. I plan on keeping this one at least 6 years unless something else BIG happens. I think the engine is really loud (I had the engine replaced because of rod knock) but have had 3 different mechanics test drive it and they all say it is rattling from the heat shield or an exhaust rattle up front. I think it sounds loud but i might be paranoid. Could that noise freak out the sensor? How do I really know what is doing it? And does malfunction mean the sensor or what it is sensing? ie: do I replace the sensor or do I look for something else?

OK-- how quickly do I need to do anything? I was in hot traffic on Thursday, more driving across town than I usually do and the CEL came on. Code said knock sensor. The next day no light. No light today either. Can I wait to do anything? See if the light comes back on? Estimate about $190 here in colorado springs. I just put in a new starter last month and a swapped engine in Feb. so I have about $2300 into this car over the past few months and don't want to spend more until I have to! I will be driving across country in Sept. and want to know if that is something I should plan on taking care of before the trip??? Thanks.

Sorry to say it is a used engine. I did not find anyone in C/S to do a swap. I will keep my fingers crossed that I don't get screwed.

I don't know where everyone is finding these engines, but everyone I called was pretty high. I have to rely on a shop to do the work and I'm sure they add their cut. There is a 6 mo. warrantee on this engine. Yes, it is a 2.5 but I didn't have much choice here. As long as I could get it done for under $2000 I was happy. The wrist pins were broken, BTW.

I really wanted to do the 2.2 but with all the logistics and headaches of getting the car to Denver then getting back up there I decided to just go for the 2.5. Because he had a few engines in stock, I got a better deal-- the whole thing done for under $2000 and the engine has under 100K. Not the best solution, but I think I can live with it if it works out. Plus it's guaranteed for 6 months. CCR was going to be $3300 plus the tow. So, when all is said and done, I will have about $4700 in this car (unless they find something else ) That's OK. It's from WI and has a little rust and needs a good detailing but it is a one owner with 138K (after the trip from IL to CO). I'm hoping I will have a good car for the next 5 years. I will sell the '92 Turbo Touring Wagon after I'm sure this one is roadworthy. Any interest out there?

OK-- the car has been towed and hopefully I will have answers to all my questions soon! A-AAction Mobile is going to do the swap if needed, but with a 2.5. He says they do the HG with a stronger one now and he had 3 engines sitting on a shelf so he could give me a better deal. He will look it over first to make sure that is what it is. I will keep my fingers crossed. Ar least I don't have to look at it every time I leave the house! I'll let you know what the verdict is.

OK-- the car has been towed and hopefully I will have answers to all my questions soon! A-AAction Mobile is going to do the swap if needed, but with a 2.5. He says they do the HG with a stronger one now and he had 3 engines sitting on a shelf so he could give me a better deal. He will look it over first to make sure that is what it is. I will keep my fingers crossed. Ar least I don't have to look at it every time I leave the house! I'll let you know what the verdict is.

I think it's a matter of inexperience or not wanting to deal with possible problems down the road. I have been surprised that no one has been doing this in the shops. I still don't even know FOR SURE that it's a rod knock. It did drive from IL to CO but makes a real racket. 3 said rod, 1 said tensioner rod. I tell ya, I am thoroughly confused.

Revolutions is at least a month out and he said he didn't do 2.2 for 2.5. I'm still looking!

I have a thread on Retrofitting about trying to do an engine swap on my '98 OB. "engine swap" take a look.... I have called several shops in Colorado Springs and no one will do a 2.2 in a 2.5. I am getting a couple quotes on a straight swap but would rather do what everyone is suggesting. It's just that no shop will do it. Also, there aren't many engines out there 2.2 or 2.5. Can any of you CO folks give me some advice? Also-- who do you trust to do work on your car? Would prefer C/S cause I don't want to tow. Thanks!

I have a thread on here about trying to do an engine swap on my '98 OB. "engine swap" I have called several shops in Colorado Springs and no one will do a 2.2 in a 2.5. I am getting a couple quotes on a straight swap but would rather do what everyone is suggesting. It's just that no shop will do it. Also, there aren't many engines out there 2.2 or 2.5. Can any of you CO folks give me some advice? Also-- who do you trust to do work on your car? Would prefer C/S cause I don't want to tow. Thanks!