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I havent changed the ignitor tho I do have another in my box of stuff. My test light is in the back but when I poke around all the hot spots are hot and it starts again.

Got the van on the road again with the newer motor, harness etc. Drove a few places on Sunday, 50 miles or so. No problem. On the road this morn got 3 miles and dead. Fired righrt back up went 2 blocks and dead again. Key in on position I can hear the fuel pump for 2 seconds. Cranking and no starting with the same little burp when I turn the key to off. Picked up some aligator clips to make the test lights at the relays and various points.

My bad. I saw where I myself posted this in June 2016 and it was answered to my satisfaction. Splice is ok. Must be getting older and forgetting more. Sorry

They have 2 wires, my 94 has 3 one being a sheild. Question is can I splice the wire somehow to adapt to the new style 2 prong sensor?

I dont see search but some talk no answers about using the cheaper later model crank sensor in a 90 to 94 model. Possible? Thanks

Terrific. That was my plan. No 90 to 94 subs at the yard today but a later model pigtail to splice might be available. I notice the 94 starts out with 3 wires and ends up with 2, no biggie I assume?

I dont know if this has been asked before but I couldnt see where it was. A 94 position sensor is 250 to 300 bucks. A 95 is 25 dollars. The only difference I see is the 94 has the pigtail attached and the 95 has a socket for a plug. Does anyone know if I can buy the 95 and just solder the wires to it and it will work? Just checking, Thanks

Would I not get a check engine light for either of these conditions? Is there a way to check the o2 sensor? Thanks for reply. Appreciated.

Hi. I put 94 legacy n/a into my Vanagon a couple years ago. My first trip to Washington and then south to San Diego yielded mileage of 18-21 per gallon. I took a trip to Sacramento yesterday and got 12 . The van ran strong and seemed to run as usual. I only noticed the fuel wasn't lasting too long. My wife drives the van mostly around town and is always filling up, I figure because of all the stop and go. My idle only seems a tad slow but it has always been that way. I pulled the plugs and did a comp check, 150-160. The plugs looked a bit lean but not like they get hot. I can run at 70 all the way to Sac but generally keep around 60 - 65. The only oddity I see is my first water reserve goes low and doesn't push water into the overflow tank.

Ive been putting new carpet in. Thanks for the replies. It was actually the knock sensor. Checked it from the ecu like the tps. Funny, the only other wire I lengthened and managed to get a shield wire into it also. The only good thing is it didn't take long to find it. On the other side of the coin, I drove for the first time ion 8 months and the van ran great. No CEL, I drove till the temp guage quit rising, about 1/4 the way up.A few more little odds and ends and back on the road. Thanks all for the help. Chris

Now I cant get the light to turn offr. I disconnected the battery for a couple hours, started the motor and the CEL came on again. Put the green connectors together and turned the key on.......light stays on, doesn't blink a code. When I connect the green test mode and the black read memory mode plugs together and follow the clear memory procedure from the FSM, I get code 22, knock sensor. Do you suppose this is an old code? Either way, I will check it out tomorrow, now that I know how these things work.

Presslab.......you were absolutely right.. There was 1 single strand of shield wire that got into my heat shrink at the red power wire. Im getting too old for this. Thanks B

Well, I cut the red wire at B3 just a couple inches from the ecu. Retested with the wire off and got 5.1 volts. Now to chase the short. Thanks for the reply, was helpful to jumpstart the brain.

No, I tested with the tps unplugged. I put the harness together to fit the vw. Tho its possible that the wire is shorted, I don't think so as I soldered all the connectors and used shrink tube on top of that. I don't get continuity from the red to the body ground when I test at the unplugged b group at the ecu. Thanks

Thanks for the reply, I found some info on a site that cleared up some of my confusion. The throttle sensor tested ok when I was following the ohm readings. When I went to voltage I find I have no power coming up the red wire from B3 at the ecu....No power at pin 3 of the ecu. I checked this by scraping a little insulation off the red wire a few inches from the ecu. I got 0.11 volts. Since there is power in on the B connector I figured I cant test by unplugging the connector and going straight for the pin on the ecu. I checked all the power in to the ecu and all looks good.