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Took the motor out Friday, marking all the wires and taking note of any inconsistencies. There were only two things my brain took special note of, 1: The light grey connector for the cam angle sensor was a bear to disconnect as the little release tang was hard to push down with one hand and pull with the other while balancing on the tube bumper. The dark grey to the crank position sensor was apart as soon as I touched it making me think that it might be loosing connection from time to time. Maybe the engine stops and I crank it a bit and it rattles around and finally connects? I dont know. 2: Im too old for this. I spent a few gazing moments into space wondering how I put this all together in the first place. Got the new motor in today, all day job swapping parts from identical motors because they dont fit right , bizaaar. coolant lines and engine mgmt tomorrow. Should run much better. Burned another cat in 2 years. Hopefully the new motor wont eat the next up so soon. Chris

I reviewed my wiring last night and compared it to a diagram I found that is quite precise. I mounted the ECU on a piece of plywood along with a terminal strip. My IG on goes to the tem strip and I have jumpers that connect 4 terms to feed all required connections at the ECU. All were hot the last time it failed. I used the original Subaru setup for relays. After I rummaged around the wires under the seat at the terminal strip the van started up the next try. I figured it was just fluke like always but now am thinking maybe something at that strip since thats the last thing I touched.

Thanks Numbchucks, good info. I got the seat up and the test light handy but not connected. I just raised the back end and drained the water and oil. Pull the motor tomorrow and put the other in. Ill get a good look at the engine wiring when I take this one out. Hopefully I can see evidence of something. So you are saying that the coil has a hot wire comming from the ignition switch? I dont remember that wire, I will doublecheck. Thanks Chris

Thanks for the replies. All are welcome as I have been working on VW for over 50 years. Put the Sub in the van 5 years ago and nothing ever went wrong, unlike the rest of the unit. Fairtax, I mis spoke. I do not have a spare MAF. I was thinking of the throttlebody. What years interchange on 94 2.2? Or better yet how do I identify a crack to fix if there is one? Bushwick. My first thought was the ignition switch so I replaced it last month along with the battery. The only wiring interface with VW is a positive pole in a box in the engine comp I use for always on requirements. The one black wire from the ignition provides the switched power needed at the ECU. All others in the box are lights etc. El Freddo...Good to hear from my favorite R/R spot. I will check the sensors when I pull the motor. Imdew, never heard of load pro but Ill look it up. How does the ignition fire the coil? One sensor? Two? Signals the ignitor then fires the coil? I cant seem to find definitive info on this. My thought is when I shut the key off I get one lonely spark when POS is removed. Thanks again' Chris

Thank you, I did not know that. I do have another MAF on the new motor.

When it wouldnt start in the driveway I was able to check all the positive connections at the terminal strip I put by the ecu. All required terms had positive juice. I was using the body ground for testing. I have run it with the MAF unplugged, tho accidentally, and got the 31 code. Also a 23 code when I forgot to plug that one in while testing. Just cleared the 2 codes a couple hours ago and went on a bit of a trip to Modesto and back. 74 miles round trip. No problems, just fear at every stop light. I do believe it has something to do with the spark. I cant check when I am by myself but I tested , when it wouldnt start, the power with key on and all looked good. I have a fresh engine in the garage I am going to install starting tomorrow. Complete with sensors and everything from air cleaner to exhaust ports. I guess I will put it in and see if something on the motor is at fault. It could be somewhere in the wiring by the ecu as this morning I pulled up the rear seat and gave all the wires a tug. Then it started but it has started on the second or third try several times. Once I had it towed. Thanks for the input. Giving it more thought as I type I think when I have the engine out I will remount all the wires under the seat. Chris

Yes....never any codes. Acts just like I turned the engine off with the key.

Hi Subaru guys. I have had a 94 Legacy engine in my van for 4 years now with no problems. Recently as I was driving down the rod it just quit like I turned thje key off. It restarted after about 3 tries and I drove home. This started to happen whenever and wherever. I changed the ignition switch as suggested by yahoo van subaru group. My battery was at the end of usefulness so I bought a new battery. The van ran fine for about 3 weeks and same thing. I checked all the VW problem areas but all the +P points are good all the way to the ecu, same year as engine. I notice that when I crank the motor, then let the key rest to the on position nothing happens and when I crank the motor, turn the key to the off position, just as I am twisting the key off the engine gives a slight rumble as if wanting to start. It seems as thogh when I remove +P from the system while turning the key off something fires the ignition just once and burns one or two cylinders. This happens every time. If I crank for several seconds and turn the key off I get a much more agressive rumble than if I crank for just a second or two. Yesterday when it wouldnt start in the driveway I was prepared with a test light and body and engine ground were good and all the +P points at the ecu were hot. At this point I am a bit lost and dont want to just start changing parts. It seems I had an old vw 40 years ago that would not start when I cranked it and gave the same engine firing as I turned the key to off position. It turned out to be the coil. However the Subaru motor seems to have more components to the firing system than the old 6 volt vw. Any thoughts? I have visually checked, pulled , shaken the engine wiring and had no luck. Just sit for a few minutes and everything is working again. Thanks

Thanks for the reply. My intention is to use the 2 port exhaust system I have as it is made to fit the van. I thought 98 was the last 2 port motor. Ill look some more. Maybe the 97? I am just trying to get the latest motor with hopefully the fewest ,miles on it.

Hi, I have a Subaru powered VW with a 94 ej22 in it. I am wondering if the intake from the 94 will fit a 98 engine. I wonder because my motor is getting tired and here in Ca I am supposed to use the 94 engine for smog reasons. I would like to go to the mechanical lifters and the 98, I think, still has the dual port exhaust. All my sensors and such will remain the same. Thanks