jaws dawg
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Posts posted by jaws dawg
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I'm taking off work to go. I know I havent been able to attend alot of the Hatch Patrol's excursions, however, it'd be nice to have the Patrol out in force.
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GEEUWW:confused: !!
What,s the deal with the choclate milk coming out of your transaxle? Is that pulverized gears or water?
No envy here, trannys' are nasty stinky things!!
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I got a set of 10" travel bilsteins with heim joints that I put on the rear but it took about 8 hrs of fitting and trimming. the upper mounts actually extend into the cargo area. They work great and took away ALOT of the understeer, now when I hit corners fast the back will come around providing a much more neutral feel. I'll post some pics tonight.
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I'm friggin' there.
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My name is Benajmin Reid. I have an 83 gl wagon 3eye. I've got 175/75/13 BFG mud terrains, all suspension is stock, but here are my plans.
1. custom build long travel front struts
2. mod front swaybar for a quick disconnect
3. extend rear trailing arms and add 18" bilsteins
4. lower diff 2 1/2"
5. a 3" front lift.
6. biuld a locker rear diff
7. 15" toy wheels with narrow BFG's for choppin through the snow
8. Ea 82 swap with a webber carb or ej20 swap with fuel infection
9. rear discs
10. 5 speed
went to reiters for the cleanup and have been $broke$ ever since. would like to go on the HP Christmas tree trip.
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Your right about the hobart and miller but the tops in the "135 class" machines is the lincoln 135 + (not the 135 t). Its not a tapped machine so you get infinite control and no wire speed tracking. This machine is also over 500 bucks. Lincoln has a smaller machine but its just out on the market to be the cheapest of the name brands and I'd say its not very useful. Hobart is comming out with a strictly fluxcore machine that is supposed to be the simplest machine to use. Right now its $400 but I expect to see it under $300 after christmas.
d.
Ya, but the different sheilding gases let you weld stuff other than mild steel. (aluminum and OOOO stainless)
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Power is really something else. On one of our HP Xmas tree runs, I brought both the imp sedan and the lifted tan hatch. Imp had good year snow tires, the hatch cooper discoverers. I drove the hatch up, Sean drove the imp. Half way thru the day, we swapped cars.
At the end of the day, we both agreed that the imp was way more capable than the hatch. Just having the power to push thru stuff was awesome.
Speakin of the HP's Xmas tree run. . . 'bout time to get to organizing this year's.
Ditto for me on the Xmas tree run. Is there any permits to get to harvest a tree. I love to snow wheel!!
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I am going to learn how to weld shortly to
i know, i know, most 14 year olds cant weld(but not this one ) I was thinking about saving up for a mig welder.Ive been down the road you're headin' down. I had a 110v lincoln mig welder and it was nothing but issues. for a very small amount more (60-100$) you can get a 110v Hobart, or for a little more than that you can get a bullet proof Miller. The Hobart is Millers entry level welder, the wire feed is plastic but I think that the heavy duty Miller parts will bolt in when they wear out.
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i actually got this i dea when i was flipping through an old issue of sport compact magazine. a guy had built a gen 4 golf with a newer audi quattro drive train, i think it was a 2.3L or something like that, he was running about 45psi of boost and getting some where around 900 bhp
if i remember right. i figured if he could make that work than i've got a shot at shoving a 2.2 into the front of my bug. i guess only time will tell, like i said until i actually get my car up to my house i might as well be designing the next spaceship 1til laterryan
The car your referring to is the Dahlback golf. his setup is full custom. the only part of the car that is factory is the center tunnel. the 2.3 5cyl is destroked to a 2.1 and is stillin the original longitudinal layout. he put the radiator in the back because the engine compartment is too full.
Your only option at this point will have to be tube frame. if you are going to keep this a street car you can have the front axles swept back to the tranny to keep the engine from hanging out the front of the car. also keep in mind the radiator mounting location, you may not have enough room in the front. you could mount plexi quarter windows with air ducts to a radiator in the luggage area.
my $.02
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discs, and stainless lines!!!
and yes, replace the pads on the front end too, you wouldn't beleive how much it helps, and is soooo easy!
What Numbchux said. I did a rear disc conversion on my jetta with stainless lines, ceramic pads, DOT 5 fluid, and crossdrilled rotors (all stock sizes).
Before the conversion I could do about 3 hard corners then the brakes would fade to nothing. After I did the conversion I couldn't find enough corners to get the brakes to fade out.
I'm not sure how cross drilling your rotors will work on the trails though.
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OK,,, Thanks for all the input and photos!
I finaly did my fenders,,, and was able to keep the stock ,although usless now, mudflaps.
SUPER CLEAN!! Good job, way to take your time and end up an great looking mod!!
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So is there a specific chemical for cleaning out heater cores or just any slush cleaner will do?
Ok well I did all you guys said today, I disconnected the core hoses, put a hose with water pressure thru one hole at a time, then disconnected all the hoses to the rad and ran the hose with water pressure thru there. Then I ran some flush chemical thru it and let it run for 10 mins with the heater full blast and it worked!!!!!!!!!! I had HEAT in the car, the heater put out pretty good heat, way better than last night before I did all this. Tomorrow I'm gonna disconnect the core hoses again and run the garden hose thru there again to get all the flush chemical and water out. If I start the engine without the core hoses connected, will it get rid of all the water in there?
Anyways I'll let you guys know wats up tomorrow. Laterz...
USE BG RADIATOR FLUSH!!!
You should be able to get it at Napa or Car Quest.
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fly boy, where are your pics? i want to see them!!!
I assume you're talkin' to me.
Your house is outside the high res area so all I came up with was a blur. I'll post it in my pics anyway if you'd like.
what about the quick release swaybar idea?
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Love the 4 round head light brats. light bar is super cool.
how about some closeups.
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has anybody tried modifying a swaybar for a quick disconnect?
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E-mail or PM me on any saturday meets Fridays suck for me (AIR FORCE) but the wife has given me a standing kitchen pass for saturdays.
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mmmm... pics.... http://www.funonwheels.net/hirisesubaru/pages/generalgallery.htm
Ok the brat with air has to be the coolest pic!!
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How are y'all gettin' the front to move so much?
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The older Porsches will turn just one side if you leave the blinker engaged. this leaves your car visible and will let other drivers know what side to pass your car on.
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I have another question. I was talking to a friend of mine yesterday who had put a weber onto his wagon and he said that he had some problems with an oil leak where he capped the valve cover hoses. He said that because there was no air getting to valves, he was getting higher oil pressure in there and some was leaking from there. Is this ok? Should I cap them when I install my weber as well? Thanks.
You should never just cap your breather system. In the old VW's the crank pully actually forced air into the block to keep oil from leaking out the front of the case. (no seal at all). What alot of the hot rod VW guys do is run a breather box for the crank case. Here I found you one on E-Bay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-BUGPACK-CRANK-CASE-BREATHER-BOX-KIT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34234QQitemZ7901582213QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V
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I'd like the power of the H6 or the Turbo motor. This car will be run 90% freeway. and I'm not worried about having to fix turbo systems or work on engine peripherials. I'd like to know if the go-lump in 100k mile car I'm going to be able to afford will hold together for 200k +.
if an H6 will go for 200k (with all of the regular maintenance)
I own european cars and have for the last 12 years so i don't do the 5000 mile oil changes and the 120,000 mile timing belt thing.
My scheduled maintenance goes, 3k oil change with synthetic. 12k tranny and diff fluid changes. annual brake fluid changes, bi annual coolant flushes. every third oil change gets BG Quick clean and MOA. And BG 44k in the gas every 6 mos. This schedual got me 380k out of my 85 jetta.
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I found 2 audi quattros recently (last weekend) in west wa. One is an Audi 100 at All Auto Wrecking off of pacific hwy 7 on the left side before you get to Graham. The other is a 200 turbo at Pull-a-Part on 112th behind McChord AFB. There is also an audi guy in Centrailia, Maximillian (DON"T CALL HIM MAX, HE REALLY DOESN"T LIKE IT), the place is called AVS German. His prices are fair if the other wrecking yards don't have one.
Note: I have an older Audi and used parts are often the only way I can afford to go.
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What Audi was this diff out of? The guy I got my 13" BFG mud terrains from has PILES of Audi and VW parts!!!
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Sure; it's all speculation and guessing untill you dyno it. Nobody doubts it would be a hot motor; just don't put numbers on it till you have a graph to prove it.
point taken, however you can get ballpark hp by calculating fuel energy expelled as well as approx output of combustion pressure.
but I digress lets get back on subject THE diff!
Hatch Patrol?
in Off Road
Posted
I had an awesome time with HP during the christmas tree run 05 and reiters pit cleanup. brought my phews and the dog out. the thing I noticed about HP is that they are more of a group of friends than a car club. they invite other people, people they don't know, out to have fun with them. please don't criticise the way HP does things, if they have a get together or camping trip thats open, they'll post an invite, and thats when I'll go.
keep in mind, when you and your buddies have a bbq, inviting the neighborhood isn't a requirement.
$.02