busdriver

I put six of them inline on my 87 gl10 and now I have 450 horsepower! Wow, I can't believe the difference! Just kidding

I have been told on here that instead of a wastegate that I have a dash pot. What is a dash pot? And what does it do with the accumulated boost? I'm new to the turbo thing and am having some wierd symptoms with my turbo on my 87 GL10. There is a definate lag amidst mid spool on the turbo. It will power up, hit about 3500 r's and it feels like someone shut off the key. Keeping the gas pedal depressed, it sputters and then hits hard and takes off. Wierd. I'm thinking of having a turbo friendly friend over to help me swap out some vacuum lines and such...and he didn't understand the dash pot as well. Thank you for any help.

That's not it cause I have really ugly subaru alloy wheels. I will check the center caps though. I have put the soob on jackstands and tried to replicate the sound...but she wouldn't cooperate.

Hi again, I have been having the strangest thing happen while driving my 87 gl10. I'll be driving along and out of nowhere, an electronic "beep" emits from under the dash! It lasts about a second and happens whenever it feels like it and I think it's in the key of C sharp. At first I thought it was my cell phone low battery warning, but then it happened when my phone was at home, it's not the radio, cause it happened once when the radio was off, and I have since swapped the radio for a CD player. It sounds as if the ecu has an audible of some sort, and trying to tell me something! Maybe she's saying "I'm tired...let me die!" She had an alarm system but I have disabled that outfit, the sound startles me when driving cause it sounds like something is seriously wrong and warning me... I just don't know what it is.

Greetings fellow subaru enthusiasts- My 87 GL10 has an issue. Lately when driving, there is a tick, tick sound emitting from what I guess is the rear axle (4wd). As I speed up, the tick speeds up, as I slow down...so does the tick. The sound reminds me of when I had a VW with a broken emergency brake cable. And after some time the cable had worked it's out of the cable housing, and was catching a groove in the drum, which would make it spring back and forth causing a tick. But the soob has disks all the way around, and the emergency brake is on the front wheels. Any ideas where to look? The diff seems to be full. Any help would be appreciated.

I have a Hella air horn system I would like to install on my 87 GL10. I lost the instructions for the air install. I do have a relay, but if at all avoidable would rather not use it. Question is can I hook the compressor directly to the horn wires and or do I have to run the relay. My friend wired his direct on his Honda, but they have a high voltage type of horn system. Any help would be appreciated

Good thinking, and rewiring just the fronts is cake. Not like the rears are hard...just a pain in the ars.

Yes...I did a search several times and came up with a little bit of knowledge, but not what I'm looking for. I want to put a stereo in the GL. I bought the adapter hardware, not sure what to do with the clock trip computer thing, I will stash it somewhere, but my question is....what's up with the antenna cable. Is there another normal connection somewhere, or do I have to make an adapter to work with my stereo? The cable is soldered right at the stereo! Also do I have to completely rewire all the speakers or can I cheat somehow someway? When applying the aftermarket stereo to the stock wiring the sound was bad. Since this car is the GL10, it has nice fabric covered speaker covers. What does one do to remove these w/o destroying them. Many thanks in advance.

Okay, the garage put a reman. clutch assembly in the soob yesterday. Upon initial lift off the clutch felt like it was real grabby, making the car shudder a bit. I figured it was new and needs to break in. Now it shudders quite a bit more, and if I down shift it really sends a vibration/ shudder through the vehicle. Any ideas? I'm going back by the garage tonight so they can test drive it, I think either the clutch is real grabby cause it's new or they screwed up somewhere. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Yeah, I hate paying someone to work on my car as well. It's actually $54.00 bucks an hour, @ 4.7 hours and she mumbled something about not charging me the.7 after all said and done. if I had at least one buddy that could pull an engine, I'd do it myself. I just don't think I'd remember where everything goes and end forgetting something vital. I hate cars!

Well I had the garage come pick her up on the flatbed and take her to the car doctor. This repair is way out of my league at the moment and I need her back on the road asap. They quoted me $250 labor $250 parts for a clutch replacement, I hope it's not any more then that. So long checking account..

I don't mean to high jack your thread, but I'm trying to convince my buddy (bored welder) that he wants to build me a down pipe for my ea82t, cause I think my cat is getting funny. Anyways, I mentioned that if he would build one one for me, he might be able to produce some more and sell em to other sube guys. Question is, would anyone be interested? I'm not sure on price, I had him thinking about it on his way home last. Chime in with any information your willing to give.

So I leave for work this morning and immediately notice some free play at the top of the clutch pedal stroke...like the cable is binding and not letting the clutch fully release. As I'm driving around I notice the free play is increasing and I am losing control over the clutch, so I bee line it for home and in the eventually I lost everything. There is no return pressure on the clutch pedal at all. I can push the clutch pedal in inside the car, hop out and manually return the pedal by moving the little shift fork do hicky connected to the trans. At this point I'm thinking pressure plate or something else very very expensive to fix. Any ideas from you guys out there. The cable seems fine cause the pedal moves freely, but she won't go into gear. Appreciate any help. Oh yeah...HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!

At this point I am going to say that all my stumbling is gone, the engine runs stronger and smoother then ever considering I've owned the car for 3 months. I almost feel like I could race something. I going to follow up the the fuse idea and I'm trying to track down the plastic clip that attaches the two wires at the back of the alternator. The one I have looks a bit worn out which may be a sign of something as well. I see it as a weak point and want to fix it. Thanks for all the help with this. I hope it helps someone else diagnose their problem for they end up broken down somewhere.

I believe I have found the problem. On my way home Thursday the alternator died, leaving me stranded in a pretty good(24+ inches) snow storm. I had her hauled home, and went to work. I replaced the alternator and coil both NAPA brand. The battery took some abuse I suspect because now it does'nt seem like it's holding a charge. I trickle charged it for a day back to full capacity. If the car sits overnight it barely starts (remote start won't activate) and the engine cranks very slowly. Should I consider the battery dead, or should I second guess on the alternator. It says it was computer tested...and we all know computers don't lie, right?!??! One more question, is there a voltage regulator on the alternator or is it in the engine bay somewhere? Would this be another suspect to my battery not seeming charged? Thanks.

That's what happens when you put your WRX in the dryer.

I'm still thinking coil for some reason. I haven't had a chance to replace it (the new one is sitting in the consle). It hasn't bucked hard for two days now, but is still stumbling a bit on the highway, actually I thought it died at one point cause it didn't just stumble...it fell flat on its face. But kept going and everything been somewhat okay.

Many thanks for the info. Very helpful. I checkd for codes, at the on position the light just constantly flashed (once a second for 20 seconds. With the engine on no codes appear after 30 seconds of running. Is this long enough to pull codes? Knowing this what/ where else should I start looking.

I'm feeling the "coil vibe" as well. I was noticing that the issue was rpm sensitive this a.m. on the way to work. As long as I didn't go over 2200 rpms it didn't buck. I'm ruling out fuel system for the time being since I've maintained a full tank of 92 oct. with fuel injector cleaner and isopropyl alcohol injections. I believe there is almost 140,000 miles on the original coil judging by appearance and I looked thru all the invoices for everything ever done to her, new brakes, engine, seals, clutch assembly, tires as well as every oil change written down. But no mention of a coil. They replaced the engine because of loss of compression in cyl. #1, seems extreme to me, I wonder where that engine is now? I found a coil for $40.00 bucks at NAPA, I'll pick it up on the way home tonight and let you know what happens. Thanks all for now.

Much thanks so far. I've been thinking about the coil cause it looks old and rusty, how do you check the coil? Also this may be contributed to my stumbling at highway speeds...right!??!

I think it would look cool polished:grin:

Where is this located?

When I leave the soob in the garage, she does'nt buck going down the road. She has to sit outside at work, and when I just went to go to lunch she was bucking like crazy, didn't even make it to the end of the parking. l noticed black smoke coming from the exhaust, it sounds as though my muffler has a hole in it as well. I capped off the egr valve because I broke one of the stems off the egr solenoid. She was running fine this morning. Any help please.

What is the aluminum thing thats says "4wd turbo" on the top of my motor? I don't mean to sound dumb, I've never had a turbo bfore.

We just got dumped on 24+ inches snow and lots of ice to top it all off and my soob eats it up like dessert. I get wheels spinning:grin: thru the corners at eveery occasion. Funny thing I prefer my 87 turbo wagon over my buddys 2001 RS. My wagon steps out and tucks itself back in much more polite then the RS. I think it has to do with one being 2wd/4wd and the other being "all wheel drive". It just seems more "user-friendly".