busdriver

Okay, I finished the hub install last night...piece of cake. So I'm on my maiden voyage to work this morning and I'm approaching a good size hill, when out of nowwhere she starts to miss a little. Then the turbo quicks in and she falls flat on her face. My power instantly left, I had to nurse it the rest of the way to work. Now when the turbo kicks in I hear a sound like air escaping, or a hissing sound...and boom flat on the face. I let her run while I got a donut to let the turbo cool, now the turbo doesn't seem to want to kick in. Help She's a 87 GL 10T. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Well the shop finally finished up on the hub. Yes, they got the bolts out, tapped the threads and then reamed me for $117. I found out much too late that a common practice is to just through bolt these hubs instead of pinch bolting them. Hope this helps someone in the future. I'll let you folks know how she runs down the road. Does anyone think I'll need a front end alignment when I'm done? Thanks in advance.

I took it to the NAPA machine shop. These guys look/act like a bunch of idiots. They don't seem too confident in their abilities. The guy was stammering and nervous, I wanted to tell him that "it's just a piece of metal, it can't hurt you". It's been almost 2 full days and no word from the shop, I'm getting scared. If I still had the right tools I would have done it myself in about 30 minutes. I used to be a manager at a shop and our moto was, if you can't find anyone to fix it , then bring it here. I wander what happened to that frame of mind. People nowadays seem to be getting more lazy and stupid. I broke the bolt that pinches at the bottom of the strut, and the other pinch bolt at the bottom that holds the ball joint.

No dice, the two wrecking yards I have accesss to have no subies...go figure. But thanks for the info. It may make things easier.

I started the cv joint project this weekend. It would have been a piece of cake, but...I snapped two bolts off on the hub. I took the hub into the machine shop today, and the guy was rather doubtful about getting these bolts out, which seems silly to me because if I had the tools, I could do it in my sleep. So I went to the NAPA store to see about ordering a whole new hub, and NAPA doesn't carry them. In fact noone does in the town I live in (BFE). So I would like to send out a call for one of these hubs, in the chances that they cannot remove the bolts. I need a passenger side hub for a 87 gl-10, 4wd turbo, 5 spd. If anyone has a spare laying around I would be very interested in purchasing if they cannot remove the bolts. Especially since the snow is finally here, and I need my subie on the road as soon as possible. If anyone has a hub they are willing to get rid of, post a reply or email me at upfbdir@aol.com. Thanks a bunch.

Hi, I just got this subie and the repair bills are adding up quick. There is a new master cylinder for the brakes on her. Right below the resevior where the res connects to the metal portion of the master cyl, there seems to be a decent leak of brake fluid. Are the rubber seals available separately? Has anyone fixed this problem using some clever and ingenius method unauthorized by subaru, but endorsed by backyard mechanics everwhere?! Any help is greatly appreciated.

Hi, Just wondering how to tighten the inner belt on the 87 GL10T. I see a little octagonal(?) thing sticking out from the middle of the belt area, is this a tensioner? Sorry for my lack of knowledge, I'm new at subies. Thanks in advance for any help.

Is this roll pin something I'm going to be able to see on the axle, or trans? I'm worried once I get this apart I won't be able to find it, I've never done a subaru before.

I'm getting ready to switch out my cv, what is a d.o.j. cup? All of the cv I have ever done just pull out of the tranny and are retained by a circlip inside the tranny. Is this like yours?

I only have a NAPA store loacally, I lost my socket set when I recently moved, so now I need to buy the axle nut socket again

Any ideas on the shifter thing?

I put gl10 on the ramps for the first time lastnight. She's not in bad condition minus the rocker panels being almost see thru. But I did find I need some parts and I'm hoping you folks can help me find em. At the back of the shift linkage, it looks like there should be something there to hold it too where it overlaps the crossmember on the body. To possibly stabilize the shifter from vertical movement. Am I correct, and if so what is it called and where could I find one? My inboard right side cv boot is toasted, the cv clacks a fuzz, but I'm just going to repace the whole 1/2 shaft. Does anyone know the size of the nut on the spindle so I can order one when I order the 1/2 shaft? And finally, the rear tranny mounts seem to be separated. In other words, where the rubber looks like it should be vulcanized to the flat pieces of steel that are bolted too both the tranny and also to a crossmember, I can push up on the tranny and I see a void about 1 mm open up . My local parts guys does not even list these mounts, do you folks think I need new ones, if so...where can I find them. I'm going to do the cv and linkage thing first and see what it does to the banging underneath the car. Thanks for any help, I really appreciate it.

Thank god I have all the receipts from everything ever done to this subie before I got it. The clutch was resurfaced I believe. On one of the receipts it mentiond they pulled the flywheel for "machining". I would interpret this to means resurfacing. Thanks for the info.

I'm going to look for the mount issue tonight hopefully if I can find some help. I don't plan on driving her hard at all. I worry about breaking her in the dead of winter and not having the means to fix her. I really appreciate the replies, thanks.

Hi Folks 2 questions. Is there a blow-off valve for the turbo, and where is it located? Second, how much up and down movement do you guys have in your shifter. I think I might have a bad tranny mount cause the shifter seems to jump pretty irratically when driving hard, and I heard a clunk underneath the center console when I was testing the clutch, the car was bucking when I let the clutch out with no gas and the clunk was in unison with the bucking. There is a new clutch pack in her, I think I need to adjust my clutch as well cause she bucked for a second and drove off.

I didn't realize the CV could be taken apart and serviced. Are there individual components available to rebuild cv joints? I think I have one going on my drivers side inboard.

i've got 134,556 on the odom. but I just bought it and don't know my mpg yet.

actually, That is not correct. Any decent quality synth will have seal swell additives that will out perform normal oils. It's suggested to use a synth. after your engine has clocked 75k miles. since after that point the wear on your engine is increasingly multiplying. The seal swell will actually absorb into the seals and inflate them to their original size and increase elasticity making the seals more pliable. just like having the sticky molecules to help protect against wear when your low or out of oil, synth. oil just plain rocks the house no matter how you look at it.

I'm rockin the GL10 5 spd tranny. I wonder where I can get some of that turn signal fluid, my blinkers are getting sticky

Now I've never had a subie worth putting synthetic fluids into, they've all been on the junker side of things, but now that I have a decent subie, I'm going to give it the royal treatment and go completely syn. I have been running Valvoline Syn power 10w-30 in my VW GTI for almost three years now, and realize how much my Vdub appreciates it. It's nice knowing your oil is going the extra mile for you with seal swell agents, and sticky molecules to keep everything buttery smooth. Did I mention the horsepower increase? My butt dyno noticed a serge in power after going synth...me likey! My second choice for a high quality lube is the Mobil 1 synthetic 10w-30. It's not as slippery as the valvoline, but in comparison to regular oils, Mobil 1 blows their doors off. So just wondering if anyone else is running synth, and if so...what kind? Also, what weight oil/ lube goes into the tranny. I believe it was 80, but I do not remember. Thanks and any help or replies.

Thanks for the help, I don't plan on driving her hard, I need her to last for awhile. My other subies have always taken a brutal pounding. so hopefully if I'm nice, she'll be nice as well.

Hi all, New to this forum. Excited and proud to be a subie owner again. OK, I picked up a somewhat cherry 87 gl-10 Turbo, 4wd, 5 speed. I test her and everything does what it's supposed to. But there is a funny vibration/ grindy feeling when the turbo kicks in. the car accelerates okay, it almost feelings like a drive line or something. Very strange. Anyways, she's got 135,000 on the clock, new engine at 77k. New clutch at 96k. She may have been sitting for awhile on the lot. I added some fresh fuel (92) and going to put in some new NGK's. Any help, on this would be great appreciated. BTW, are these turbo'd subies as dependable as the non-turbo models. I've had wonderful luck so far with subarus.