rguyver
-
Posts
217 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by rguyver
-
-
Im gona let you all in on a little secret , i use polyurathane strutrod bushings in my 80's Subarus , now who makes urathane stuff for 80's subes you ask ?
NO ONE ! yet! but i found out that 1970's DODGE strut rod bushings fit SUBARUS and you can get them in Polyurathane + red or black from Energy Suspention the inner hole is a little bit bigger but when you fully tighten it all down they are a tight fit ,
This helps get rid of weel hop and stiffens up the suspention .
The ones i use are 1973 plymouth Cuda' strutrod bushings from Energy suspention .
-
well i gess he has set the bar high
any one gona step up 
Ill have some work to get my Brat in the 9's i'm hoping for mid 12's
-
-
I vote Zefy !
but if they are all in B.C. ill do it
-
I will buy one ! i could use one for my brat too .
i live near Zefy , about 4h away in B.C.
I asume you are handling the shiping ? I would gladly send a 50$ U.S money order to handle shiping and the pain in the A$$ fee
P M me and give me the adress and who to make the money order to .
Has any one priced out glass for the 1978 cars/ brats and the avalability?
-
Cool. I have all the tools needed to do the job. Not doing it on a subie, got plans for a 2L mid engine suzuki hatch (normally fitted with a .8L lol).
Very nice workmenship. But hows the camber angle on the front?
good i can actualy ajust it unlike the stock EA81 frontend:) i can get lots of + camber if needed its the caster that i will have to work on to try to limit the under stear :-\ .
-
dont get me wrong i like the car and even better its a SUBARU
"BUT" i dont like the fact that subaru built a car that shares no related mechanical parts to the rest of the line , like every other large car company you cant just grab a axel from one and make it fit all the other models but with all other Subarus i can swap diffs , engines, trannys brakes ect.... from the 70s all the way to now i can still put a 2006 Engine out of a Baja in a 1983 wagon with small mods. but then there is the JUSTY its like the "red headed step child" not realy like the others but still a SUBARU , with its own set of problems and bennifits , good on gas , ECVT was costly to repare, still 4wd, 3cylinder , new engine type for subaru with it new types of problems .
I gess the reason " I " dont realy have any love for the JUSTY is that im a mechanical person and when you change something im use to working with you dont want to change
. Lastly i would rather have a justy then any other type of small car eg. Sprint , fire fly , HONDA
-
Looks great mate.
But tell me, what did you do to weld the drive shaft? Did you use a lythe to get the shaft straight. Or did you just do it free hand? I see you used a tube over the shaft, how thick is it, and is it just plain steel, or high tensile?
I lathed the shaft down to have a press fit in to 1/4 wall 1"1/2 seemless tube then checked them in the lathe for strateness , tack them in 4 spots on each end , tig weldeg them out of the lathe then rechecked them back in and did a light cut across the shaft to take out any slight bend .
I've dun 6000rpm launches and they still hold up
but i wasnt worred beacuse ive built them for lifted rigs with 31" mudder tires and they still hold up , as long as you dont just slap together some old pipe and a stick welder and expect them to work .It would be better to just get a set of custom axels built at a machine shop but i didnt want to spend upwards of 1000$ on fully custom axels , this way it was just my time .
-
so what I'm gathering from what you're saying is the front was actually not too difficult to do. You reamed out the balljoint hole in the EA81 control arm, made your own custom axles (which BTW, looks great!), and modified the XT6 strut to fit into the EA81 chassis, like redrilling the strut tower? Or did you decide to go with an EA81 tophat onto an XT6 strut? Looks great nonetheless!!!
Close but i modified the EA81 strut to fit the XT6 nuckle , i built a EA81 strut with a 2 bolt style bottem .
Also i had to cut and rethred the inner tirods for the bigger XT6 outer tirods
-
What's it gonna take for you to build up my brat like that for me?
(If I was wealthy I would totally be throwing money at you!)That's the sweetest street brat in N.America for certain. Great job, keep up the good work, and for the love of god - give me your car!
Well i must have at least $10,000- $15,000 in to it by now and if i was going to build it for some one else i would have to charge $20,000 CA. but that is still around what a good 2002 WRX costs around here they go for 20-25,000$ still with low km . but you would have a BRAT that was faster
-
this maybe a far out idea but i had a EA82 mpfi engine do the samething (random spark only when letting off the key or on ) it was the noise condencer for the coil was wired on the wron side causeing a short to the coil but not enuff to fry the wires , maybe you have a short or a power wire going to ground in your coil wiring ?
Use the ohm setting to check if any of the power wires ground out to the body ,
Just throwing out ideas ?
-
Why didnt you just use the XT6 strut i read you only need to change the top to the ea81? is this rite?
A non air ride XT6 strut is harder to find then a subaru 360 in good shape around here
that and i didnt want to lift the brat , the xt6 car and engine is a lot heavier then the brat , Im going to try to fit the WRX nuckle and strut next so i can get lowering springs and better shocks along with better brakes
-
What parts exactly did you need off the XT6 to do the 5 lug conversion? just the disks/rotors, or was there more to it ?
The rear needs only the Backing plate hub and roter the calaper is the same and the CV axel is the same .
The front is just the compleet nuckle ( roter , CV axel, balljoint,tirod ends, nuckle calaper mount ) with some mods to the car to make it fit the EA81 car, i had to reem out the lower ball joint socket in the control arm to fit , cut and shorten the CV axel (inner cup is the large turbo type) and build a strut adapter to fit the cup and clamp type struts of the EA81 car .
-
I have had a simmlar problem on some subaru engine swaps but it may not be your fix
At what point are you getting the power from to run the computer ? or the ignition ? the igniton switch "key" for the starter cuts power to a lot of the car except the ignition to start the car, mostly on the EA series cars so you will get a jolt of power just as you let go of the key and it will try to start , check to see that you have power to your computer when cranking .
Also i cant stress how important GROUND wires are make sure to check that all the grounds are good not just laying on a bolt head , and that the engine has a good body ground strap and the computer is grounded .
i hope this all helps , keep trying diffrent things you will get it !
Someone will have to build and sell wiring kits for the EJ22 beacuse i see this to be a comon swap for the ageing EA engines ,and good used 2.2s are getting cheeper to get with a better power potential then rebuilding a turbo 1.8.
-
I do believe that is THE wheelsize to run on a brat.
now drop the rear down to get rid of that rake.
ya thats the next thing to lower it ! but if i just put 100lb in the back like if someone sits in the back it sits level i will have to reposition the splines in the torson bars then jack it up with the ajuster bolt as needed , (the bolt is all the way down )
-
nice last time was really fun.
so i hear you work with mat ridgeway, im good friends with him.
ya i boss him around
-
The seats are new race seats im not sure what brand ? beacuse i got them from an a off shore suply company that gets random stuf from China , i think they were built for a nother company in the U.S with out the logo in the head rest , needless to say i got them cheep 600$ CA. for both
but i cant get another set :-\ . The console is hand built out of alu. with a " CUP HOLDER " its the best install ever
it just screws down over the old plastic bottem .Hay logan i missed last auto cross but i should be able to get to the next .
-
XT6 5 lug hub swap . and a lot of luck
they just fit .
I can here the Chevy guys crying from here LOL -
Very very nice! That is really cool! What type of scoop is that?
Well you will never gess
have you ever owned a 80 camaro with a cowel hood 
Its a 80 camaro cowel hood scoop with about 2' cut off of it and turned around then cut and droped in the back then refiberglassed all back together . it just seemed to fit the 80's style hood better then the round wrx scoop .
-
just got my new rims and tires installed 17" / 7.5 with 225-45 yokahama ES100's they just fit with about 1/2" in front when i turn but like everything else on my brat "just fit " is the way everything fits
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=866
-
1
-
-
I did the silicone trick, and it worked pretty good. But 1st time I had to remove the cap I ruined my silicone job. The boot is simple and ive never ran into problems.
I also ran a piece of hose from the vent, but instead of running it to the air intake I ran it to a clear fuel filter.
-Brian
i just keep a tube of silicone in my sube all the time just in case i have to do a durt build engine on the trail also high temp header paint works well for reuseing the head gaskets and exhost gaskets
no realy i have had to do it before:banana: -
you going to fix it or is he going to sell it
im looking for a cheep well used baja i dont mind a little water damage -
Since we were talking about snorkels and all, i thought it would be a good idea to bring up the rubber disty cover. Toyota 22R's have a rubber boot that covers the distributor cap.
I found one in the junkyard, and it's almost a perfect fit. All you need to do is cut a small section away to clear the vacuum advance. Here's one I found on ebay, there are a few others listed:
-Brian
I find that the rubber caps just hold the water IN ! i have found the best thing is to silicone the cap down and put some around the end of the plugs as you push the wires down and use a good amount of contact greese so the ends dont rust up , a nother good idea is to put a hose in the drane hole on the bottem of the dist. and plum it in to the air intake or out of the way of any water . Happy SUBING
-
you guys need to check out the aussie subaru site. I remember seeing quite a few EA series cars with 4.11 and 4.44 gears in the trannys
for somereason the farther sound you go, the eaiser the soob moddin gets.
those guys got some crazy rigs
Its not hard to get 4.44 or 4.11s in a sube tranny i have had 2 EJ 4.11 trannys but its hard to get a pinion shaft that is settup for the D/R EA tranny that is actualy a true 4x4 not an AWD, they have diffrent pinion shafts .
17" rims on my BRAT pics
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
This is the parts list basicly , the parts are easy , but making them fit is another story , you will have to buy the proper tap to shorten the inner tirods , a tapered reem to largen the lower controll arm , and building the axels you will need two types the one that fits the tranny and the XT6 outer , i only had to cut the XT6 ones because i used the larger RX XT6 and WRX trannys in my brat over the years . i dont know the exact lenths and sizes that they are since i did this about 4 years ago
I built the strut adapters so i could use the stock 1983 2WD struts so it would sit lower .
I'm currently working on changing all the front XT6 nuckles for WRX parts , the front brakes just are not large enuff to stop the car under race conditions and the struts are to soft for hard cornering with the WRX EJ20t engine.
I will up date that swap when summer is over , just no time for car stuff right now .