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jlallen3rd

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  1. I noticed you say "fans". If you have the defroster or a/c on, both fans run when the a/c compressor comes on. I think only one fan comes on when the engine temp. gets too high and then the second one if the first doesn't cool things down. This seems to be the way my Subaru works although it's a newer model.
  2. Head gasket part number is 11044AA632. Not sure if it's updated. So now I have had to do head gaskets on my 97 Legacy Outback wagon EJ25 DOHC at 108,000-did it myself (combustion leak into cooling system areating the coolant) and my 03 Impreza EJ25 SOHC at 90,000 (external leak). I thought maybe they would have figured out how to seal this engine by now. Love the AWD but am loosing my confidence in their engineering. Cars were not driven hard and were maintained. Does Subaru make an engine where the head gaskets last for 200,000 miles? Thanx for your feedback.
  3. I posted few weeks ago about my suspected headgasket leak. Took it to the dealer and they warrantied the head gaskets with 90000 miles as long as I would pay for the 90000 mile service. So I ended up with new timing belt, water pump, serp. belts, thermostat, coolant, brake fluid flush, trans. change, diff. change, air filter spark plugs etc. for just shy of $900. Anyway head gaskets appear to still be an issue even on the SOHC engines!,
  4. 03 impreza ej25 sohc with 90,000 miles has a small coolant leak- seems to be from LR of engine but can't pinpoint it. Leaves drips on steering rack and frame underneath. Got slightly hot once and have been adding a bit of coolant for the last month to keep it up. Haven't seen any posts about external leaks on engine of this year. Also my manual says 60,000 mile warranty and I see posts saying 100,000. Have to go buy an adapter for my pressure tester to check it out soon. Any suggestions? And yes, coolant was changed at about 50,000 miles.
  5. Thanx for the input. Already unhooked the connector- terminals are clean and straight. Also pulled the three connectors on the pass. side rear of block that I unhooked to remove the engine and they all look clean and straight- couldn't tell which one had the circuit for the knock sensor. Blue wire with a white trace. After clearing the code last night I went into pending codes and it reset almost immediately. This engine has had some piston slap when cold for quite awhile but it was warm when I reset. Also no noticable rattles from exhaust shields but I will check again. Is there a resistance check that can be done? I read some other posts that talk about the sensor cracking and someone putting a resistor in place until he could get a sensor.
  6. Recently replaced the head gaskets on my 97 Legacy Outback 2.5. Shortly after I am getting a check engine light w/ a knock sensor code. Thought maybe I forgot to reconnect it but found it below the throttle body in the engine valley and it was hooked up. How do I check it? Maybe just a coincedence or could I have damaged it when I pulled the engine?
  7. Weirdness like this is usually from a bad ground somewhere. Recheck any work done recently. When the ground goes away and a circuit is powered it will follow the next path of least resistance that had a common ground. Light bulbs are low resistance until they heat up which is why they are dim. This is a simplified explanation but I hope it heads you in the right direction. Now sure why the battery went dead unless, sometimes a relay will stick on from low voltage caused by the bad ground and cause a drain. Lots o' luck!
  8. Just replaced the timing belt on my 97 Legacy Outback 2.5. The old belt still looked like new with 102,000 miles. I was amazed there was not any cracking. Is this normal? Paid about $70 for a new belt. Ouch! Used to pay about $25 for Escorts. Also resealed the oil pump which started to leak. Thanks to all the posts on this site I knew what to watch out for. Using the starter to loosen the crank pulley bolt was the way to go. I hesitated because I have seen damage when it doesn't go right. Any way, now that that is done it may be coincidence but when starting cold the motor surges until warm which it didn't do before. Any suggestions?
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