saltytheseadog

I think I'll stick with bolts , my welding isn't that good.

Thanks I'm just prepping the 2WD before I move it to the bush camp. A couple of holes cut in the body where the back seat used to be reveals the captured nuts of the crossmember so I can put some heat on them before I try to remove them. The other crossmember nuts were well exposed from the rust in that area. If subaru leaked as much oil at the back as they do at the front they would last forever

Thanks, I was looking at the 2WD frame where the Differential cross member ( mustache bar) bolts on. There appears to be two dimples rather close together one is an outty and the other an inny. Could one of these be the position of that bolt (is it one bolt that holds it?) . Is there enough meat there to tap or do you have to bolt right though to the inner deck. There will be no shifting between Lo Hi or 2WD to 4WD so that control linkage is not required. Max speed is about 10 . I was looking at the crossmember of the 2WD and it looks pretty good. The one in the donor car I had to make up with help from a friend with a pipe bender to replace the rusted out one that was is there. It works for the low speed application but one wheels canted out a bit. Is the only difference the rear differential carrier or are the swing arms different

I would like to convert a 2WD 92 Loyale wagon to 4WD. The donor car is a 1987 4WD dual range Wagon. The donor car is almost beat to death from working as a log skidder in the bush but the drive train is good. Right away I see that the 2WD frame has no provision to mount the rear differential support arm. The good news is that because it never leaves 4WD lo range there is no requirement for a shift lever. Has anyone made this conversion or heard of it being done ?

I found the Haynes manual had a little tidbit that lead me in the right direction. First to come off is the plastic casing that holds the heater vent controls, hazard flashers etc. some of the screws are not identified in the manual and most are hidden from view. when it is loose you can reach behind and disconnect half dozen plugs and move it out of the way. The control cluster screws are easy to access. I wasn't able to pull it all the out but was able to reach around and remove the bulbs. One was burned out and the other may have had a bad contact and they both work now. I had difficulty re-attaching the speedo cable. Ideally you would undo it from the tranny and have lots of slack but mine had siezed threads and the plastic nut would just collapse when you put pressure on it. It was a bit of an adventure but it worked and I have turn signal indicators again and a working speedo.

88SubGL read the OP So I pulled the Brain box down for a look see and there doesn't look like there is any access to the rear of the dash console short of removing the steering column and a whole bunch of other stuff. Is there any other way in other than cutting a hole in the top of the dash.

I'm resurrecting a Loyale that hasn't been on the road for awhile and both turn signal indicators don't work. All the turn signal lights and the hazard flashers are working. I'm wondering how to access the bulbs or the wiring as I suspect the ground may be faulty as both lights have failed and they share a common ground.

I don't see signs of leakage there. Air in would mean fluid out wouldn't it ? I may replace them because I can't think of anything else to do.

This brake system still has air in it or air getting into it. I went around bleeding the lines starting at the M/C twice through . All the bleeders are clear of air except the left rear which I have collected a half pint of fluid from and still no end in sight from air bubbles in the fluid. I'm thinking that the air is somehow getting into the system but can't think how. If there were even a pinhole leak in a line shouldn't there be fluid escaping from said hole when under pressure. There must be something else going on for that much air in the line.

Today we bled the MC and found some air in rear cyl. but mostly clear. Followed Haynes recommended bleeding order and all except left rear were clear of air. Left rear line had a lot of air in it but finally cleared out. We will give it another round tomorrow when our brake fluid supply is replenished but most air is gone now. I'll try the order czny suggests, it is also the order used in How to keep your Subaru alive for OHC cars

The way to bleed I've been told is start with the furthest away from MC, then next furthest etc. Haven't bled MC, didn't notice any bleed valve on it. Is there a procedure for this? Just checked with Haynes; right rear,left front,left rear, right front. Ok got it. Try bleeding MC tomorrow and follow proper order. Thanks I'll report back

I've been repairing the brakes of a loyale. So far I've replaced the Master Cylinder, the brake shoes, and the wheel cylinders. Drums are both on. Bled right rear brake, came clear of air after half dozen pumps of brake pedal. At Left rear after 30 -40 pumps of pedal it continues to produce air. Pumping up brakes indicates air in line as pressure builds up with pumping. I can't detect any system leaks and would expect to hear noises , see fluid dripping if a line were corroded through. I clamped down on the reservoir to see if the new grommets that came with the master cylinder were leaking but made no difference. I have a clear hose on the bleed nipple and every pump is 10 to 12 inches of brake line so the line should be clear. Any comments?

The tapped hole was steel

The rusted damper appears to have been a press fit over the tee coming off the pump. The hole was a little big for a pipe tap and the depth was limited but I was able to tap a few threads and install a pipe plug with a generous amount of seal all which is gasoline resistant . My first choice was an epoxy based product but unless specific to gasoline use, may break down. The test will be whether is will withstand the pressure.

That's my unit without the rust. The end of the damper unit is totally rusted away. It looks from the photo like it may thread on to the tee in which case I may be able to unthread it and put a plug in to save the pump. The unit is on a car at a remote property with less than a mile of roads. If I can get another 100 miles out it then it will probably outlive me.