saltytheseadog

I don't see signs of leakage there. Air in would mean fluid out wouldn't it ? I may replace them because I can't think of anything else to do.

This brake system still has air in it or air getting into it. I went around bleeding the lines starting at the M/C twice through . All the bleeders are clear of air except the left rear which I have collected a half pint of fluid from and still no end in sight from air bubbles in the fluid. I'm thinking that the air is somehow getting into the system but can't think how. If there were even a pinhole leak in a line shouldn't there be fluid escaping from said hole when under pressure. There must be something else going on for that much air in the line.

Today we bled the MC and found some air in rear cyl. but mostly clear. Followed Haynes recommended bleeding order and all except left rear were clear of air. Left rear line had a lot of air in it but finally cleared out. We will give it another round tomorrow when our brake fluid supply is replenished but most air is gone now. I'll try the order czny suggests, it is also the order used in How to keep your Subaru alive for OHC cars

The way to bleed I've been told is start with the furthest away from MC, then next furthest etc. Haven't bled MC, didn't notice any bleed valve on it. Is there a procedure for this? Just checked with Haynes; right rear,left front,left rear, right front. Ok got it. Try bleeding MC tomorrow and follow proper order. Thanks I'll report back

I've been repairing the brakes of a loyale. So far I've replaced the Master Cylinder, the brake shoes, and the wheel cylinders. Drums are both on. Bled right rear brake, came clear of air after half dozen pumps of brake pedal. At Left rear after 30 -40 pumps of pedal it continues to produce air. Pumping up brakes indicates air in line as pressure builds up with pumping. I can't detect any system leaks and would expect to hear noises , see fluid dripping if a line were corroded through. I clamped down on the reservoir to see if the new grommets that came with the master cylinder were leaking but made no difference. I have a clear hose on the bleed nipple and every pump is 10 to 12 inches of brake line so the line should be clear. Any comments?

The tapped hole was steel

The rusted damper appears to have been a press fit over the tee coming off the pump. The hole was a little big for a pipe tap and the depth was limited but I was able to tap a few threads and install a pipe plug with a generous amount of seal all which is gasoline resistant . My first choice was an epoxy based product but unless specific to gasoline use, may break down. The test will be whether is will withstand the pressure.

That's my unit without the rust. The end of the damper unit is totally rusted away. It looks from the photo like it may thread on to the tee in which case I may be able to unthread it and put a plug in to save the pump. The unit is on a car at a remote property with less than a mile of roads. If I can get another 100 miles out it then it will probably outlive me.

I'm not sure what the device is at the delivery end of the fuel pump after it tee's off but mine has rusted out completely. It looks like one of the fuel line dampers found just downstream of the tee and throughout the vehicle. Questions ; Is it necessary ? How is it attached, mine is too rusty to tell ?

Thanks . The Subie is retired and will be used as a utility vehicle at a remote camp with very little, but rough road. The wheels are there now and I'm back in town, and I'm trying to find out if I have to figure out some way to bore out the wheels to fit over the spigot on the brakes for my next trip over there (be prepared my scout leader said).

Has anyone put 6 bolt datsun truck wheels on there 1990 Loyale. I know I can drill the 2 offset holes but will the center bore fit the subaru hub?

I haven't either and didn't even know it existed until recently. The manual I'm using suggests setting the idle speed as a starting point after timing is set. I think it said to do with the IAC disconnected. Anyway I tried turning the screw both ways and it made little difference. Just wondering how the thing works. I'll know in the morning if the idle problem is solved as I found no power to the IAC until I messed with the harness connection and then got power.

Trying to get engine to idle properly . I may have found the problem in the IAC wiring harness, but my question is which way do you turn the IA screw to raise the RPM. I've gone both ways with it and there seems to be little response. I've had the IAC harness disconnected while doing so. Would like to know how it is supposed to work?

Update; Pulled engine and did one side that was suspect, the other had been done 50k ago, head gasket looked bad with obvious breach in it. Resealed the pan with Rightstuff again, and put a seal kit into oil pump. Haven't been able to road test it yet but runs nicely in the shop. Thanks for the advice from this forum.

Thanks for the information. Practically speaking if it is a case of leaky head gasket then it may spell the end for this car as it has rust issues and may not be worth the investment in parts. I did the passenger side Head gasket about 50k ago (resurfaced head OEM gaskets) so I may be able to get away with doing one side. Just don't know which side or both are bad. Do you think compressed air injected through a modified spark plug, wheels locked , cylinder at TDC would induce some gurgling in the coolant? Or just drive it till it starts belching steam?

I did try jacking the front of the car up when I filled it with water. If it were a small head gasket leak could it be causing combustion gas into the coolant but no coolant into the cylinders, no indication of that on the plugs. Any way of isolating which cylinder. Drivers side means engine out, passenger side I can do in the car.

I 'm having troubles with the cooling system on my 91 Loyale. It started after I had pulled the rad to get at the oil pump to try to quiet down the TOD. I must have jarred it handling it because it developed a leak where the end frame and first tube enter the tank. This caused some overheating before I realized I was losing coolant. I've temporarily solved this using epoxy and tested to 15psi. Also put some rad sealant in to be sure. It still isn't operating properly. There still seems to be a loss of coolant say a cup or two per hour. The temp guage goes higher than normal before settling down. The heater will blast and then go stone cold. I removed the thermostat and checked it ok , but put in a new one I had. Pulled the plugs, color looked normal. The water pump looks ok but not sure whats going on inside it. I still have the tick of death to deal with. Thought I would try new oil pump seals as my third attempt. (1. mickey mouse seal 2. Rislone oil treatment)

Thanks, Mice haven't been a problem in this area that I know of. Most of the upholstery will be removed and I'll probably cut the roof off behind the passenger seat. Kinda like a DIY BRAT.

The time has come to put my Subie out to pasture. It is still running strong like most Subaru's are when they are retired around here but the rust has taken hold. But before it gets crushed I have a final purpose for it. I intend to take it to my boat access only cottage and use it as a utility vehicle for hauling firewood from the back of the lot and pulling a boat trailer up the beach. My model has dual range 4WD, will never travel more than 1/8 of a mile and will likely never go over 10 mph. The ground is rough so bigger tires would be a plus and I'm considering removing the gas tank and plumbing in a boat style day tank located where the passenger seat used to be. This will protect it from rocks, fuel going stale from lack of use (easier to drain), and rust. My questions are; ( 1) Other than the fuel line to the fuel pump and the return line which could be plumbed into the plastic tank are there any other considerations? ( 2) I've read here that larger wheels can be put on a Subie by getting 6 bolt rims and drilling 2 holes to match the 4 bolt pattern. I'm not interested in doing any fender modification. Which model and size of rim would be best for this?

Re-torqueing hasn't helped and the shimmy is still there when braking , worse at higher speeds. Scary in fact. Today I tried to do an E brake stop at high speed which while slow stopping did not produce any shaking. This would lead me to think that the problem is in the rear drum brakes, so I lifted the rear wheels off the ground, and with a pole, put on a slight brake pressure with the motor running. The results were inclusive. While there was a small difference in drag when I rotated the wheel by hand, it was the same in both wheels. I'm trying to isolate the problem but not sure how to do it. Can't tell where it is because it makes the whole car shake.

Yesterday I changed all my wheels to a set of subaru alloy rims from a subie I am decommissioning. I have been driving that car for the last 6 months and there were no issues with the wheels. First time I go to put on my brakes there was a violent brake shimmy. They seemed to go on fine and I can't think what could of changed to make my brakes so weird. I'm going to try loosening the nuts and torqueing them to 80 ft lbs.

Getting code 32 on the ECU. Changed out the O2 sensor with a new NTK but still have active check engine light. Do I have to cancel the code somehow? Any other possible causes likely?

Thanks, Good to know there is a set of 6 manuals out there . Would like to find some of them. Is it possible to edit title of this post to say " Complete 6 volume EA82 Manual set wanted " I have taken a heater core out of Loyale on its way to the wrecker and if I remember correctly it involved a couple of crowbars and at least one stick of dynamite.

I'm looking at the pdf ea82 service manual that I have and it seems to be incomplete. Should there be a third part that covers body part components such as how to remove a heater core as an example? The 2 part manual I have just covers the drive train.

I tried changing the steering fluid and cleaning the strainer in the reservoir but found no improvement. I've noticed the steering is easier when the car is cold and that raising the engine RPM makes it easier. Are these symptoms of a worn pump? Any online tutorials on changing a pump that anyone can share?