Oldmics

Could be the oil pressure sensing switch starting to go bad. Oldmics

The real gauge says 20 at idle and its still up around 60 when at hiway speeds. I"m O.K. with those readings. The original dash gauge would only show 80 pounds all the time and would not register the 20 at idle. I"m not gonna worry about the dash gauge and will just rely on the newly installed real gauge. I am aware of the Rotella oil being compounded for diesel applications.I purchase it by the drum for my trucks and antique cars since it has a high quanity of ZDDP for solid lifter machines. Oldmics

1990 EA 82 EFI engine I was concerned that the idiot gauge in the dash cluster was twisted up so I installed a real gauge. Reads 67 lbs cold. Have not run it up to temperature since I put the gauge in so I dont have a warm pressure reading. I use Shell Rotella oil 15-40 . Oil pressure seems pretty high to me.What would cause such a high pressure? What do you guys think? Oldmics

Its a 1990 EA82 automatic trans, EFI engine. Did some searching and I believe its supposed to be 20* BTDC. Now I assume its hook the timing lite to #1 and view the timing marks on the flywheel and adjust the dizzy as necessary Heres my real concern. It appears that the dizzy is already twisted to its clockwise maximum position. So if I need to rotate it more in that direction should I pull the dizzy and drop it back a tooth (assuming it has a gear- Amenrican engines that I am familiar with have a gear) I wanted to add a few degrees for some more pep in this dead rump roast engine. Am I on the right track? Thanks for any replys,Oldmics

Thanks for all the replys.The kicker is that I had recently changed the oil and filter.It had not been run 1000 miles since the oil change.So I question that it was low on oil as it does not leak. I did notice and hear some additional valve clatter just before the engine quit.Thats why I was sorta believeing the mechanic about it being low on oil-but just not 100% sure. I have had the car repaired but still need to monitor the oil pressure with a real gauge on it.The mechanics comment about the seized cam could possibly have been the tensioner seized. I will report back in a few days. Oldmics

Not sure how it happened but my 1990 Sub wagon (2 wheel drive automatic) ran low enough on oil to seize and snap one of the timing belts. The mechanic that worked on it said that although it was seized on the broken belt side he freed it up and replaced both belts. My question is how bad has this damaged my engine? Its an original mileage 58K - EA82 engine.The mechanic said get rid of it.But he also said that those engines were only good for about 80K and then they were worn out. The wagon is pristeen with no rust at all.I"m considering rebuilding the engine.Perhaps running the current engine till it dies and acquiring a junk yard rebuildable core. I realise there are no gaurantees but opinions are welcomed. Thanks,Oldmics

O.K.-Put in the new O.E.M. thermostat and the temp gauge now reads a bit higher. The heater really cranks now so I am happy with those results. Still have the oil pressure gauge going all the way up as soon as I turn the key to the "on" position. I dissconnected the oil pressure sending wire and as soon as I turn the key on it goes to the max position without the engine being started. So is this a short in the wiring harness? Possibly in the dash cluster? If its in the dash cluster I can also dig into the sticking tachometer issue. Can someone explain the tach operation and wiring to accomplish the tachometer feature.Its obviously an electrical interface of some sort. Thanks for any assistance. Oldmics

Yeah,I can deal with it and use the parking brake. Its the old lady thats freaked out. I would like to have it right if its not a huge hassel. Oldmics

Why-Yes it is Thank you for the education. Oldmics

Yep,more questions. The oil pressure gauge goes waayyy to hi when running.It also sits below the normal resting place when not running. The temp gauge will hardly move (I have reasonably hot air from the heater) and the tach sticks at 2K or so randomly. I think someone may have been into the dash for a previous repair (or an odometer rollback). Any suggestions on how to approach these issues? Thanks,Oldmics

My 1990 Loyale / 2 wheel drive machine will sometimes not compleatly engage into park,allow a slight drift and a horrible noise. I did some research and there was a factory recall regarding a transmission parking pawl that would need replacement. A trip to the local dealer was no help. So has anybody experienced this situation? Are parking pawls availiable for the 2 wheel drive units? Can I do this parking pawl replacement at home? Thanks,Oldmics

I see where there are a bunch of post where the references to engines are listed as EA81,EA82,etc. I looked under the hood of my 1990 Loyale wagon and it says LF for the engine group. Can someone explain the references of the engines to me? Thanks,Oldmics

First post for an old time Sube owner. I seem to have a penchant for older Sube wagons. First Sube experience was a brand new 88 DL that lasted longer than my marriage,coupla early 90s Loyales and recently picked up a CHERRY looking 90 Loyale wagon. It was a garage kept Florida car with (no kidding) 54K original miles.You could eat under the hood.Absolutly no rust anywhere. Has a few issues that I do need to address.I will post those questions in the appropreate Forum location. Glad to be aboard. Best wishs,Oldmics

How can we contact this parts supplier? Oldmics