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I'm looking to buy a 2002 Impreza with a blown 2.0 liter turbo engine. I want to know if I can put my 2.5 SOHC engine from my 2000 OB Sedan into the Impreza easily or will a wiring harness exchange be in my future. If so-I ain't doing it. I guess that's more than 1 question. My skill level is about a 7. I could do the wiring harness, but I fall short of changing pins in connectors. What do you'll think? Can I do it?

I have no other information other than I'm looking to buy a 2001 Forester that needs an automatic transmission. I have an automatic transmission that came out of a 2000 Outback Wagon. Are they compatible as far as gearing to the Forester rear end? Or, do I really need to get numbers off of both and check with my local Subaru dealer before investing in the Forester. The Forester is an S and looks pretty good (new tires, recent t-belt, clean interior......etc). Anybody know for sure? Thanks in advance-ED A

Fairtax4me-You sound so sure I got to think you've had this happen to you. I did do the belt, and it looked good. Marks were spot on, but you definitely got me thinking. I'll pull it apart again and triple check. Thanks a lot. ED A

GG-I'm trying to take the 2.5 from my OB and put it into the WRX. Sorry for the confusion. ED A

I don't think its that hard, as long as the jam nut loosens, and the outer tie rod ends "unscrew". Undo the outer tie rod ends and take them off. Count the number of turns (every time the end goes around to 12:00 o'clock I consider 1 turn) so when reinstalling the tie rod end turn it on the same number you counted taking it off, so you won't have affected the alignment too much. Also, the position of the jam nut, and the overall look (same rust look-nothing shiny showing where the jam nut meets the tie rod) should give you a good indication if your close. Once the ends are off, remove the squeeze clamp that holds the outer portion of the bellows to the shaft. There's a metal fastener (kind of like a metal rubber band) that holds the inner portion of the bellows in place. Its kind of covered by the bellows, the way it "rolls" over it, but once you see what I'm describing, just pry the rubber, with the band, out of the groove it sits in on the rack housing, and peel it down the shaft. i know you asked for just the bellow replacement, however, if you see signs of fluid from the rack on the inside of the bellows, you may have a rack problem. Also, with the inner tie rods exposed, check for play-there should be NONE. Grab the shaft and move it in and out, NO PLAY is acceptable. The inner tie rods are replaceable and you are most of the way there at this point. Don't be foolish. Now just reverse the procedure. Don't you hate that? You have to work the new bellows into position. Use some WD or PB blaster to help it slide down the shaft. I have had some problems reusing the metal rubber band, but if it breaks or becomes disfigured, a nylon tie wrap will secure the bellows to the rack housing effectively. Once the inner end is secure, be sure its not twisted, then secure the outer end of the bellows with the squeeze clamp. Put the tie rods back on, secure them to the knuckle, don't forget your cotter pins and you should be good to go. I hope this is helpful.

I want to know if this is possible, and if so, the procedure to do it. I have a 2000 OB LTD Sedan with a normally aspirated 2,5 SOHC engine. I saw a 2002 WRX 4DR Sedan with engine problems. It may just need heads, but I would like to know if it is feasible/reasonable to take my engine from the OB Sedan and replace the turbo engine. I've read about this, but I have never done it. What EXACTLY will I have to do? Thanks.

I bought a used OB sw that had an engine noise (lower t-belt pulley held in by the belt-still running). I put in a t-belt kit and car started and ran in the driveway. Sold car to a friend and as it sat in driveway idling, an engine noise developed-popped left cover and noise corresponded to a defective tensioner. No big deal, did the t-belt job again-like I had nothing better to do. Registered and insured car in RI and got check engine light (code P0101 and P0103) and found spark plug tubes full of oil. After a major battle (both lower rear 10mm bolt heads were rusted and would not recieve a socket or wrench--sawzall, chisel, suffering and swearing were all involved) the covers, gaskets, tube seals and oem plugs and wires were installed. Drove car to work (45 miles) and car set check engine light again for P0101/03. Cleared code while driving and got 5 of 7 monitors to set. I worked at a dealer and I went to get its state inspection-reqiured within 1 week of registration. It set the check engine light WHILE hooked up and being inspected. It failed!!!. Drove it home (45 miles) in a snow storm and while accelerating, I noticed the automatic transmission seemed to be downshifting at strange times from 4th to 3rd and back to 4th. I accelerated to 60 mph and the tach dropped to 0, like the car was shut off, and at this time the check engine light and AT temp llight lit alternately. I mean one came on and when the other came on the first went out. As the car lost speed, remember the tach dropped to 0, when the car was down to about 40 mph, i feathered the gas pedal and the tach revived to about 2,000 rpm's and the car accelerated (check engine and AT temp light out now) again to about 60 mph and did it again. I played this "game" 3 times and it did the same thing every time. So, I nursed it home at around 45 mph and was happy to get home. The next day I went out to started the car and the low fuel light was on, so I went 2 miles to the gas station and put $20.00 worth of gas in. Low fuel light was out. After the snow stopped I went to move the car and it started, low fuel light on, and the car died out after 20 seconds and would not restart. I suspected the fuel pump and after installing a used one from another car, the car started and ran, and the low fuel light was out. i thought maybe this had been the problem all along, the pump, but the car ran and thrwe the check engine light again with P0101/03 codes. I brought it to a shop because the weather was wicked cold (single digit temps) and they are Subaru specialists. However, the storm of the century hit, and my car was buried and nothing was done. I went over and dug the car out for them, and realized the battery was dead, so I installed a new battery so the car would turn over without a jump box. I figured that would help the shop to get a look at it. By the way, after putting in the battery, I tried starting the car and it wouldn;t start. I drove it over there!. So, today, after a month of the shop doing nothing, and not calling as they said they would, I went over and tried a cam sensor. Unfortunately, I didn't try and start it before doing the job, but after installing the cam sensor, the car started and ran and check engine light was on for a knock sensor code and the low fuel light was on. I cleared the code, restarted the car and the low fuel light was off but the knock sensor code returned. I cleared it again and the light came right back on, but there were no codes, and after erasib=ng the code, the light remained on, but the scanner said there was no malfunctions present-no codes. i shut it off, restarted and the check engine light was off. So, figuring that the car might be fixed I decided to drive it home. Guess what, check engine light was on (knock sensor) and the AT temp light was flashing about 5 minutes into a 10 minute drive. I got it home and put it a knock sensor and tried a crank sensor. As you can see, I am a parts swapper. An educated parts swapper, but a parts swapper nonetheless. So, the car runs about the same as it did when it failed the state inspection-runs rough and if you bring the tach up to 4,000 the tach will cut out, the check engine light will flash as well as a quick blink of the AT temp light. Back off the throttle, and it goes back to idle (rough) and no lights are on. Hey, I think the knock sensor problem was fixed, but that's a hollow victory. Any ideas? PS-At one time there were codes P1518 and P1112-but I don't remember when. It was early in the saga