kn33

Finally found a description with the same colored wires as my 99 Forester. hope this works as I'll be doing it today. relay is located under the hood in the main fuse box in front of the washer fluid bottle

Nevermind, radio clock and memory worked, just hadn't set them after replacing the battery, looked again and the fuse under the hood labelled lighting was blown. won't have a replacement till tomorrow but I'll bet my toes it fixes the problem. sorry for wasting time with dumbass questions. please remove this whole post.

installed my own keyless entry a couple years ago, spliced into the radio memory wire (yellow) for power and the relay to my door switch (probably should have just bought a new fob) the board was eventually ripped out one night when the car was broken into. I know to check fuses 9 (under dash) and 30 (under hood) they're both good. anything else I should check before going through the wiring?

tensioner replaced, timing set, codes cleared, drives like a brand new car!!!!!!!!! mine doesn't have a guide plate, seen them on the manual transmissions in the FSM, not sure if they use them on the auto's

Please tell me why running a cooler burning fuel (higher octane) in an engine not designed with enough compression to fully combust anything past 89 Octane would clean ANYTHING out??? It was Probably just the hard driving http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating

Purge solenoid is fine, plugged in and whatnot, probably the timing setting that code off too, because of reduced manifold vacuum or something. it definitely skipped while driving, turned the motor over several times after releasing the tensioner to check. drove like a dream, then the wife goosed the pedal a little hard and blammo, rough idle, lack of power.... makes sense because neither code appeared till I pulled over to let the wife drive... Thanks a LOT for the additional info!!!

it didn't throw a check engine light, just had no idea when to shift, only drove it once in that condition. AT oil temp light was blinking. they say an out of adjustment TPS can do the same thing. plug in an OBDII scantool and you can see the percentage the ECU is seeing and adjust it accordingly. it truly drove like it needed a new tranny, worst driving experience ever. fixed the plug and she shifted like a brand new car.

Ok, so you were totally wrong, TB didn't skip a tooth, it skipped 2!!! be installing a new tensioner in the morning, then off to work! Thanks for taking the time to help me troubleshoot Texan!

OK, unplug your TPS and you'll feel hard shifts alright......in all the wrong places

One more question, it took about 3 times of running the car and clearing the purge valve code before the cam sensor code showed up, all the while running crappily is that a code that shows up immediately or takes several occurrences before throwing a MIL/code?

kn33: More likely to get internal-organ cancer (probably liver) from oil and other chemicals. I have Scott in me, so I understand the sound of screaming pence/scheckles. LOL, Cancer sucks

Honestly, that's what I'm leaning toward. The little guy inside (Mr. Rubenstein) wouldn't let me shell out the cash for a new tensioner because the old one held up to 66 LBS per the SFM, but it does have 176,000 Mi on it and probably needs to be replaced. SOB I'm sick of removing my belts and timing cover. already removed my tranny pan for naught, re-replaced my intake gaskets, etc..... I think I should mention that it SEEMED like it ran perfectly till it warmed up after about 5 minutes of driving. ( I also noted two other posts where the OP said they replaced the sensor and everything seemed fine till they drove a couple of miles, turned out to be the timing skipped a tooth) seems strange to me that it ran fine for any amount of time at all with the timing off

I'd like to, hate feeling greasy and oily, but the jew in me screams NOOOOOOO every time I think about shelling out some cash for a box. that little bastard's loud and with a family history of skin cancer maybe I oughta listen

C'mon people, I know I posted late but Geeez. Things that can cause an error 341: loose sensor skipped timing loose cam sprocket bad sensor bad wiring bad ECU Anything else I should check while the sun's still up?

Solved: damn o-ring on the TPS connector was rolling up and then popping the connector off the TPS sensor when I wasn't looking.