kn33

Finally found a description with the same colored wires as my 99 Forester. hope this works as I'll be doing it today. relay is located under the hood in the main fuse box in front of the washer fluid bottle

Nevermind, radio clock and memory worked, just hadn't set them after replacing the battery, looked again and the fuse under the hood labelled lighting was blown. won't have a replacement till tomorrow but I'll bet my toes it fixes the problem. sorry for wasting time with dumbass questions. please remove this whole post.

installed my own keyless entry a couple years ago, spliced into the radio memory wire (yellow) for power and the relay to my door switch (probably should have just bought a new fob) the board was eventually ripped out one night when the car was broken into. I know to check fuses 9 (under dash) and 30 (under hood) they're both good. anything else I should check before going through the wiring?

tensioner replaced, timing set, codes cleared, drives like a brand new car!!!!!!!!! mine doesn't have a guide plate, seen them on the manual transmissions in the FSM, not sure if they use them on the auto's

Please tell me why running a cooler burning fuel (higher octane) in an engine not designed with enough compression to fully combust anything past 89 Octane would clean ANYTHING out??? It was Probably just the hard driving http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating

Purge solenoid is fine, plugged in and whatnot, probably the timing setting that code off too, because of reduced manifold vacuum or something. it definitely skipped while driving, turned the motor over several times after releasing the tensioner to check. drove like a dream, then the wife goosed the pedal a little hard and blammo, rough idle, lack of power.... makes sense because neither code appeared till I pulled over to let the wife drive... Thanks a LOT for the additional info!!!

it didn't throw a check engine light, just had no idea when to shift, only drove it once in that condition. AT oil temp light was blinking. they say an out of adjustment TPS can do the same thing. plug in an OBDII scantool and you can see the percentage the ECU is seeing and adjust it accordingly. it truly drove like it needed a new tranny, worst driving experience ever. fixed the plug and she shifted like a brand new car.

Ok, so you were totally wrong, TB didn't skip a tooth, it skipped 2!!! be installing a new tensioner in the morning, then off to work! Thanks for taking the time to help me troubleshoot Texan!

OK, unplug your TPS and you'll feel hard shifts alright......in all the wrong places

One more question, it took about 3 times of running the car and clearing the purge valve code before the cam sensor code showed up, all the while running crappily is that a code that shows up immediately or takes several occurrences before throwing a MIL/code?

kn33: More likely to get internal-organ cancer (probably liver) from oil and other chemicals. I have Scott in me, so I understand the sound of screaming pence/scheckles. LOL, Cancer sucks

Honestly, that's what I'm leaning toward. The little guy inside (Mr. Rubenstein) wouldn't let me shell out the cash for a new tensioner because the old one held up to 66 LBS per the SFM, but it does have 176,000 Mi on it and probably needs to be replaced. SOB I'm sick of removing my belts and timing cover. already removed my tranny pan for naught, re-replaced my intake gaskets, etc..... I think I should mention that it SEEMED like it ran perfectly till it warmed up after about 5 minutes of driving. ( I also noted two other posts where the OP said they replaced the sensor and everything seemed fine till they drove a couple of miles, turned out to be the timing skipped a tooth) seems strange to me that it ran fine for any amount of time at all with the timing off

I'd like to, hate feeling greasy and oily, but the jew in me screams NOOOOOOO every time I think about shelling out some cash for a box. that little bastard's loud and with a family history of skin cancer maybe I oughta listen

C'mon people, I know I posted late but Geeez. Things that can cause an error 341: loose sensor skipped timing loose cam sprocket bad sensor bad wiring bad ECU Anything else I should check while the sun's still up?

Solved: damn o-ring on the TPS connector was rolling up and then popping the connector off the TPS sensor when I wasn't looking.

Ok, solved my blinking AT temp light, the damn TPS wasn't connected, the damn rubber o-ring was sticky and rolled up as I put on the connector, then popped it back off when I wasn't looking. SOB. put a little grease on her and blammo, Slid right in, no more shifting problems. Now I've got an engine that runs fairly well, but idles erratically and kinda sputters sometimes. reminds me of a vacuum leak, but I replaced all hoses. Error codes are 443 and 341, I'll check out the Purge valve in the morning, remember one of the hoses was on kinda cockeyed, maybe the flow is restricted. WTF is everything going wrong? car ran fine, just consumed a lot of oil. rebuilt her and now no love. any way to test the cam position sensor? anything else that could have made the car throw this code erroneously?

Anybody tried this? the method I saw previously said to drive the car above 12 MPH, then all the other mumbo-jumbo, never mentioned the connector under the dash I used to read my ABS codes. To check the TCU codes - if the AT Temp light flashes 16 times on startup then you have stored TCU codes. There is a 6 pin black connector above the gas pedal and two grounding wires wrapped into the harness directly above that. Insert one grounding pin into the center pin on the black connector (blue with yellow trace typically), then follow this process: 1: Turn ignition on, apply brake, and place gear selector in 1. Turn ignition off. 2: Turn ignition on. 3: Move selector to 2. 4: Move selector to 3. 5: Move selector to D. 6: Depress accelerator pedal slightly. 7: Read morse codes flashes on the AT Temp light. 24 will indicate a bad duty-c. These are "stored" history codes from previous drive cycles. 8: Turn ignition off, then back on. 9: Move selector to 3. 10: Move selector to 2. 11: Move selector to 1. 12: Depress accelerator pedal slightly. 13: Read codes again. Codes given here are current faults active in the TCU on the current drive cycle.

I think it's only fair to mention that there's probably a leak at my intake gaskets and we all know it's the first thing I should fix. IAC works bvecause it started @ 2000 RPM then gradually slowed down to 1000 RPM as she warmed up. but after that the idle kinda meandered between 800-1000, all vacuum hoses have been replaced but I forgot to attach the heater pipe to that runs under the intake and had to lift the intake up a bit to make some room, when I did I totally JACKED the gaskets, put a thin layer of high temp RTV on either side of the gaskets and slapped it back together with my fingers crossed. have a can of carb cleaner to verify, but can't start the motor because the pan is off my tranny.

definitely got the problem upshifting AND hard shifting AND stalling

Totally pissed, don't know what happened, but I re-tested the damn solenoid and it reads 3.6 Ohm! they're both good and probably were only buzzing from the low current/voltage could have done the secret handshake and gotten the trouble codes, but NOOOO. I had to go and dump $30 bucks worth of oil that I can't re-use & I've got no trouble code to work with!

Great answer, also thought of this as I had removed it while cleaning my throttlebody and didn't notice the holes were slotted till this morning.How do I adjust it? multimeter and spin to achieve .45-.55v?

SON of a Bitch, turned the key to ON after removing the solenoid and now the Line pressure duty solenoid buzzes, which I think I read can be caused by a low battery (which makes sense because autozone told me my battery was bad about 2 hours ago) I tested this solenoid (which is the same part # as the brake duty solenoid) and it reads 3.5 Ohm. any insight, one is bad, which one? if it works like other solenoids I'm familiar with, the electrons flow through a coil, inducing a magnetic field which propels a piston one way or the other to open or close a passage. the good one should read almost zero resistance. EDIT: Looks like I was wrong, found the correct resistance values here:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/115136-transmission-solenoid/ solenoid............description......................terminal #..........ohms Duty solenoid A (Line pressure solenoid).....[ 5 — 16]..........[ 2.0 — 4.5] Duty solenoid B (Lock-up solenoid) ............[13 — 16].........[10.0 —17.0] Duty solenoid D (2-4 brake solenoid)..........[ 9 — 16]..........[ 2.0 — 4.5] Thanks to: johnceggleston for the answer with a 0.3 Ohm reading looks like the brake duty solenoid is bad, but I still want your valuable feedback people! am I right? If that's the case, I just accidentally diagnosed the malfunctioning part, Thanks in advance!

Hello, I've got a 4eat which buzzes when the key is in the ON position. I feel the pan and can tell it's a solenoid by the vibration. AT oil temp light is blinking indicating an electrical fault and the transmission is shifting with back breaking force, it also stalled the engine when coming to a stop. all this happened after sitting for 3 months waiting for me to rebuild the engine. everything was fine before except for a slightly hard shift into first and second when cold. The fluid is nice and red and has no smell, 99 Forester, nicely driven, never abused. Took off the Transmission oil pan and the 2-4 brake duty is the one buzzing. What should it read on my DMM? what are the chances that replacing this solenoid will solve all my problems? Anyone know the part #? Just pulled the solenoid and tested it with my OHM meter. 0.3 Ohm, good or bad?