ford'ssubaru's
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Posts posted by ford'ssubaru's
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Hell I thought the tick came from the factory....:-)
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Ok,
Don't stay with the Dark side of the force. If you use the Force for good it will guide you. The Force is telling me that all things ignition related is your issue. If you use the Force it will guide you step by step to eliminate the ery Dark side of the Force. Use the Force MD. It will guide you.
Squealing noise. The Force tells me that it should not squeal. If your belts are loose or glazed it could possibly not turn the alternator fast enough to generate the necessary voltage. Weaker spark, lower voltage does create sais Yoda. Make sure that you are generating 13.5 Vlts to 14.5 volts with all your lights on sais the Jedi master.
Jedi has replaced plugs and wires and battery so the Force is telling me that these are not the issue. Awe...Low RPM? From where else could this problem come come from???????? The CPS could create such a headache rumored from stories told on this forum long ago. What is the CPS or EPS sais the young Luke? The Crank Position Sensor or the Engine Position Sensor is actually located on the distributor young Luke. Different from other vehicles this is. This needs to be carefully marked and removed. Disassembled and cleaned. The sensor is a notorious collector of moisture dirt and oil the Force tells me. Clean thoroughly with electrical parts cleaner.
Oh Master tell me more you say? In time young Luke. In time. There is ancient documentation on this forum about how to adjust your throttle stop or EPS Luke. The Force will guide you in your journey to find it or Jezek will just post it. This is probably why it tries to start when you pump the throttle because it needs to find itself right at the beginning. Most important step this is sais Yoda. One could chase ones tail if your adjustments aren't correct.
Uhhhhmmmmmm, Meditation time it is..........Hmmmmmmmmmmmm.
May the Force be with You.........\
Cheers,
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Yep, listen to the above. Most like your synchro is has hung up. You can try removing the linkage and shift boot covers and tapping the base of the shifter with a rubber mallet. I did this and it popped out. I replaced the oil with good synthetic and haven't had a problem. That does not mean it is a guaranteed fix because the problem is still there.
Just my opinion might be worth trying.
Good Luck
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1. Make sure your air cleaner is hooked up. MAP sensor will not work unless it is drawing air.
2. Make sure fuel lines are not backwards.
3. Make sure you tighten the dogsnot out of those round engine connectors.
These are pretty common. Been there done that examples.
Good Luck
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Wow, that is not good. I will definitely not use WIX.
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Sounds like your fuel pump relay under the dash column above your computer...... Did you try bypassing it to check?
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I like the carpet idea. You can get fuzzy dice to match!
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You bet brother. Till you are crosseyed. Spray some electrical cleaner in there and blow out with air. They are tough. I now just use a pair of channel locks. Got tired of pushing them together.
Cheers
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Well did it fix the original problem? Don't leave us hanging?....LOL.
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This is most likely your sending unit or lines.
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Learned something on this thread! Thanks!
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I took mine to the radiator shop and he ordered it for me for $100 and some change. No hassle, radiator guys usually know exactly what to do.....
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Does it only leak when the tank is full? Your sending unit has a gasket that may have gone bad. I could be very wrong here but fuel tanks very rarely leak from the top because of rust. Water goes to the bottom and rusts out the bottom. Now there are experts here who may know more but this is just my thunking.
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You know with that Year Make and Model you will find all kinds of help right here. What is your issue with the Roo? What do you need help with?
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I am spoiled because I live in the PNW but you can find a Subie that you are more comfy with for better money.
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Very wise advice from the above^^^^^^^^^^^
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First I think your front hub is stripped on one side or the other only chattering in a turn.
Second while having a torque bind on my 2009 Forester, (Take this with a grain of salt cause there is better people here than me) I was researching it and read about your very problem. I was a cheap rump roast and was running new tire in the front and half worn tires in the rear and it burnt out my differential that was in the rear of my tranny. Fairly easy fix though. Kinda spendy. Like I said there is some salty dawgs here that will help give them a minute. Welcome!
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Ok, back to the basics. remove the timing covers and inspect timing belt marks. Disconnect those round engine connectors clean thoroughly with electric cleaner. Reconnect and push hard until you crossed. Ziptie tightly. Remove distributor and inspect drive gear in camshaft housing. Disassemble distributor and clean with electrical cleaner. Under the little plate moisture and dirt collects. Blow gently with air. Inspect eps in distributor. Inspect wires in distributor. They like to get really dry and brittle where the go into distributor and at the connector. Clean connector. Make sure shaft is intact and that little screw has not come out and rotor is not just floating on shaft. This is pretty common. Set flywheel on the three timing marks on flywheel. Dot should be straight up and the opposite straight down. Rotate 180 degrees and just the opposite should occur. Rotate engine to 1 TDC. Reintall distributor. Distributor when installed and adjusted should be set at 20 degrees. The bolt should be somewhere in the middle of adjustment slide.
Try this and let us know,
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Very freaking nice!
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To the best of your ability try to keep it as OEM on the Brat. Only because I have a soft spot for the Brat and there are very few of them left as OEM....... Hoping to get one. Switching manifolds is fairly easy.
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I have used the Fel Pro and it worked fine. I started buying the Head Gaskets from Subaru only because when they are placed side by side and on top of each other there was a big difference in height and appearance. So for the time it takes I just buy intake gaskets and head gaskets from Subaru. Again just an opinion. Not trying to start a separate argument.
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This is where I use OEM gaskets also. Just my opinion.
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Called a friend at Autonation. He said you can look up or call just about anyone in Spokane Wa and they will order it to your store. I would Google Spokane Wa or just about any city in the Pacific NW.
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My dash was removed and I used plastic paint in sunrise red. It looked pretty nice. Not perfect. The majority of the Glue was hidden. The visible parts have a slight crease.
$1.00 1996 OBS!
in Members Rides
Posted
Very Nice!