01 Outback

This strut took most of the impact. Left front wheel and tire destroyed. Discovred left rear wheel bent. I ordered a lower control arm, a strut and a ball joint. The tires have 50K on them and my tire and front end place told me with AWD Subarus the tires on each axle have to be exactly the same size or it creates all manner of problems. all told including 2 used wheels the parts total thus far is $700.

I hit a median avoiding a deer tonight on my way home. Left front tire blew, wheel bent, control arm pushed back, up and in, strut collapsed 60 miles from home. I managed to get it jacked up and the donut spare mounted. Then I limped it home. At a minimum I am looking at a strut, lower control arm, wheel, tire and not sure what else. It's making a whirring noise like a wheel bearing going out. But I was able to do 55 MPH most of the way home and so long as I kept the wheel straight it didn't drive too bad, but pulled hard left on braking of course. I will put it up on the lift in the morning and try to figure out how bad the damage is. Pics will follow. I am lucky, could have been much worse.

Mine hangs up sometimes too. I spray the latch mechanism and the exterior handle and linkage with PB Blaster and it frees up.

Update: I am thinking it was trapped air as the CEL now only comes on every 4-500 miles with PO 420 as it has since I owned the car. The coolant and oil levels are unchanged in the 2000 miles put on since oil change at 1000 miles after the motor was installed.

I am unfamiliar with the terminology you are using.I don't know what live data means? I checked and reset the code with the engine running while driving at 75 MPH 3000 RPM . I was merging onto the interstate after about 10 minutes of operation and the CEL came on just as the engine came to temperature.

I bought from EAS imports in KC, MO via ebay for $1700 shipped, no core charge for a long block. actually more than a long block as it had the oilpan, new waterpump, pulleys and timing belt. All we had to do was swap over the fuel injection stuff, exhaust manifolds and accessories. My local mechanic charged me $350 to swap over the parts and install it.

Yep, brand new one done with the motor change about 1000 miles ago. I let it warm up for 3 minutes today before driving off and no CEL. Drove 61 miles averaged 75 MPH and no CEL or codes when I checked them after the drive??? So long story short, I will continue to monitor it closely. I get a CEL for code PO 420 about every 500 miles, I think due to aftermarket Cats. I erase all the codes when that happens and press on... thanks for the replies...

Just below the middle after a 61 mile drive at 80 MPH ( my daily commute one way) . If I warm it up for a couple minutes before I go, it doesn't pop the code and CEL? I know I should always warm it up a bit. But sometimes I just crank it up and take off ( reasonable throttle settings until it's up to temp of course). I let it run with the cap off after I changed the water neck several days ago and had the heater on hot until all the bubbles in the radiator stopped so I figured I had it bled, but it was doing this before I discovered the water neck leaking and changed it?

Since replacing the engine on the 01 Outback I am getting an intermittent code 128. It says coolant temp below threshold? The water pump and thermostat are new. Car runs perfect doesn't over heat or leak. It only happens if I crank it up and take off. If I let it set and warm up for 2-3 minutes it doesn't happen? I am clueless on this malfunction.

I just went through this with my 01 Outback. I was hearing a roar at 50 MPH and the seat vibrated. Rear u-joint had 1/4 inch of slop. Be prepared to get your wallet out if you find a bad u-joint as they are not replaceable. You will have to buy the whole driveshaft. I looked on line and called autozone. I was quoted between $450 and $550 for a remanufactured driveshaft. I went to a local slavage yard and found a good used one for $135. Problem solved.

Thanks. I run this little car 122 miles a day, 5-6 days a week. I have put close to 50000 miles a year on it and it is the best car I have ever owned.

Also changed rear differential gear oil. There was no metal on the magnet and it was as clean as when I put it in there. Lucas 80/90 is all I use...

I have put about 1000 miles on the ebay reman motor and it runs like a champ. No leaks, hasnt used a drop of oil since it was installed. (I will be changing it this weekend, then back to normal 5000 mile interval). What I originally thought was a rear wheel bearing going out turned out to be a bad rear u joint so I sourced a driveshaft from a local salvage yard for $135 and its smooth as glass again. Averaging 25.6 MPG at 80 MPH for most of a 121 mile round trip daily commute...

$1500 plus $192 freight to my local mechanic's shop. $300 for him to swap the accessories, manifolds, etc off of my motor and install.

Up for auction is a 2000 2001 2002 Subaru Forester / Impreza 2.5L SOHC 4 cylinder long block engine. The engine was a good running engine removed from a wrecked 2002 Forester that has been reconditioned with the following parts: New timing belt, new timing tensioner, new idlers, new water pump, new revised FelPro MLS head gaskets, new rear main seal, new valve stem seals, and new valve cover gaskets. The cylinder heads have been hot tanked, pressure tested, resurfaced, and have had all the valves adjusted. It has 0 miles on it since being reconditioned. It comes with everything as seen in the pictures. Buyer will need to swap your manifolds, sensors, hoses, and accessories over. Engine is already in time, and after swapping your parts over, will be ready to be installed. Why chance buying a used engine with nothing done to it when for a little more, all the expensive maintenance is good for many years to come. I will ship anywhere in the continental USA through a freight company to a freight dock or a business with loading dock. Delivery to your door is extra. Email me with your zip code for a quote. Free local pick-up. NO CORE IS REQUIRED. In most cases, engine will be shipped out next business day of cleared payment. Please DO NOT place a bid on this engine if you are not able to follow through and purchase it.....We also provide installation for local buyers for $500 extra. Thanks so much !!! Yes it is a SOHC. Here is the addy

Please respond ASAP. Will a 2.5 motor for a 2001 Impreza or Forester fit a 2001 Outback? It is a long block reman and it doesn't list Outback as one of the choices. We will be installing the intake and exhaust manifolds and accesories off of my motor. Thanks to all in advance.

I am looking at a low mileage 02 Forester (95K original) vs replacing the motor in my 01 Outback for my 122 mile daily commute to Dulles, VA. How do they compare in gas mileage and performance, ride, etc? Outward appearences the Forester looks more truck like and is shorter. Other than looking for wet places on the bottom of the heads, is there anything I need to be vigilant for?

good to know. thanks for the info. this is the 1st I have read of the 6 cylinders having head gasket issues. Have they fixed it in later 2.5 motors? If so what year did they solve the problem?

thanks so much for the replies. looking for a replacement motor

2001 Outback. Head gaskets failed at 244K. Lasted 10K then LH failed again. local shop replaced under warranty and now 2 days later coolant recovery tank is slowly filling up and coolant is bubbling at hot idle. We are thinking cracked head or worse cracked cylinder wall? Car runs perfect. No oil in water or water in oil. Car is in excellent shape for it's age. debating as to buying a head, buying a motor or another car. I have been told the 6 cylinder cars dont have these problems. Is a swap fesable or even possible?

My 01 Outback had both orings fail on the low and hi pressure lines where they go onto the compressor. I had the system open for 2 minutes maybe. I put 2 cans of 134A in and it cools to 50 degrees. Didn't vacuum. Air conditioning repair is a racket. Get a cheap ac thermometer and a couple cans of freon and a servicing hose. Service it with freon on a good warm day until the low pressure line has droplets of condensation on it like a coke can on a hot day and you will be very close. If you get too much the line will have ice on it and turn white. Let a little out. I check for leaks with a strong dish soap solution applied with a spray bottle. Most of the time it is orings or bad schrader valves at the high and low pressure servicing ports.

I just had mine done at a local private shop. 6 hours of labor , new Felpro gaskets, new water pump, timing belts, serpentine belt. $ 980 out the door and my 01 Outback has never run better.