farmer

No smoke from it. There is a 10 amp protecting it and that's good. I did ground the white wire by peeling a little insulation and grounding that, but no luck. The purple wire is hot. I was assuming just grounding the white in some manner would get me lights if it could do it. I did check the light fuse under the hood and it was still good. Thanks for the reply

I have another post on here with my dashlights not working and I have ordered another module - about fifty dollars, which isn't an issue with this car. We have winter in Iowa and the car's worth a lot more than I have in it. I tried grounding the wihite wire (ground) to by pass the dimming function, but no luck. i have the hot purple wire, the white for ground and a number of blue and a couple of black wires. I'm trying to figure out how this works. The hot feed is apparently from the purple wire and the system grounds the lights incrementally to the ground with the metering done at the stalk on the steering column. But are all the lights involved connected to the module with their own ground and hot feed? I don't see any other way for it to work. If this is sthe case how does grounding the one main ground wire to the module plug bring on the lights... unless some parts of the module are still working to connect everything. Appreciate the help.

I ran out and checked under hood for that fuse. Found it pretty easy and it was ok.

No I didn't Ivan. The only fuse I did anything with was the one in the fuse box in front of the left knee - drivers side. It was a 10 amp. Pulling it cut the power to the purple wire. I'll look for one under the hood, thanks.

Thanks for the reply cougar. I believe the posting I saw on it was a ground either white or orange. I do have the hot purple wire and a white coming out of the plug. I didn't cut the white wire to ground it, but stripped al ittle insulation off and held that to ground. Still no dash lights. I'll keep checking.

I see a number of posts on the subject of no dash lights and it seems attributed to the Illuination control module. In my Outback I have the module number 83023AE01A. I have current in the purple wire and saw if the white wire was to be grounded the lights should work, but without the dimming function. I tried that, but I still have no dash lights. The 10 amp fuse in the box by the left knee/drivers side is good. Is there something else I could try or should I just replace the module and be done with it? As always, appreciate the help.

I put a direct pressure oil gauge on my Subie, thinking if this was bearing wear putting the brass specs in the oil, I should have a somewhat lower pressure reading. I have 32 at idle (700 rpms) and 76 at 3500 rpms. It doesn't seem like it should be that high with worn bearings. Still perfectly quiet and runs great.

Thanks Mason. No noises at all. It runs like a engine in nice shape after working out some of the sensor problems. It's perfectly quiet, even at start up.

Thanks a lot for the responses. I just had a little brass flaking in the engine oil. A full time Subie mechanic told me it would have to be the rod bearings past the babbit. I don't have any noise and the engine runs near perfect. I thought if I could check them through the pan, I'd take a look and probably replace them with the pan off. I thought maybe with the crank rotating the journal down on each I could get at the cap nuts, but apparently not. He told me the only brass in the engine would be the rod bearings, but I was wondering about the cam bushings/bearings. Is there a chance the flakes are coming from one of those or are those roller bearings?

Can someone tell me if the rod bearings on the 2.5 can be changed through the pan or if the engine would have to be removed and dismantled?

Thanks cougar. So that's why it dropped the voltage when I replaced it. I couldn't figure that thing out. Later

See if the thread on "Erratic Issues" sounds like what it's doing.

This is the final updating on this thing and also a summing up of my Subie "adventures" to date. At the end of this posting is the issue I have been fighting. Car is running great. I thought I'd need an exorcist to fix it but it's doing great with the info I picked up here from Ivans Imports and One Lucky Texan. This is a 2000 Subaru Outback sedan with 205,000 miles and a few issues. I didn't know the history of the car. Here is my history with it. Original Post: *No dash lights - Module (part# 83023AE01A) went out. Bypassed the dimming function to get dash lights by grounding the black wire with a white stripe with the module removed. * Misfire code - replaced plugs with NGKs and afternarket plug wires - Took care of problem and misfire code * P0420 code - fixed front exhaust leak and changed rear cat sensor - still have the code back every two weeks or so, but doesn't seem to affect anything. * Acceleration problems (really goofy) - no code - fixed by replacing TPS. Using live data on scanner I found I couldn't get the TPS into "0" at no thrrottle to "100 %" at full throttle consisently. The 100 % may not be necessary, but the no throttle would vary from 0 to 13%. * Idle problems - no code - fixed by replacing the engine temp sensor with a Subie sensor (has to be Subie - tried aftermarket) This is the one for the ECM, not the gauge. * Purge Valve solenoid - Had code (can't remember it) - replaced the solenoid (just back the rear passemger tire with the wire plugged into it. Took care of the code and the car ran better, but not the big issue I was after. * PVC valve - no code - no problem identified with it, just replaced it. 1. New fuel pump - no code - throwing parts at the present problem 2. New fuel pump regulator - throwing parts at it. 3. MAP sensor - no code - just guessing at the current fix 4. New fuel filter - maintenance, but hoping for a fix. 5. Checked alternator and found high voltage and thought about replacing the alternator or at least the voltage reg but found the alternator fuse missing and in replacing it the voltage came down to about 14.3 (good level). I still don't know why it was charging with the fuse out of there or about the difference in voltage by replacing it, but it did and didn't make any difference in the running problems with the car. The lasts five listings did not fix anything to the best of my knowledge, although they may have helped with other performance areas that I just didn't know about. The current problem I was working on was sporadic running problems where the car would suddenly start to die, then catch and run a little, then miss, then try to die, then take off. It would do this for about half an hour or a little less. After one of these spells, it would run pretty well for about three weeks (which is why I've dragged this thing out - to see if the problem would come back) Some of the parts I replaced seemed to help the performance during the "good runs", but didn't fix it. I seemed like a shortage of fuel (but I had full power at full throttle) or possibly a bad coil (never replaced). Ivans Imports suggested the front cat sensor based on his experience with other similar Subies. I replaced the front cat sensor and the problem has not returned in the past three weeks. I'm ready to call it fixed with the replacement of the front cat sensor. Thanks a lot Tex and Ivans. Appreciate it to no end. Just added: ** Tranny wouldn't go into drive after shifting from reverse or park after running. I saw a post where the additive TransX would fix it. Added about half a quart and it took care of it. Apparently there is an "0" ring or seal that dries out and shrinks. The TransX helps out the seal. ** Flashing AT Oil Temp light. Came on with a hard downshift and stayed on until restarted. Then no light for about 40 miles. Found a P0107 OBD code for MAP sensor but no AT codes. Cleaned grounds to engine, cleaned MAP sensor with carb spray, and worked the wires on the MAP sensor to fit into the fitting alittle better. LIght disappeared - All is back to "normal" 'nother addon Gates water pump out at 25K. I have put it in with the timing belt. I was having a noise from the lower front engine. It turned out the water pump bearing was out and the roller for the pump was cocked a little, tracking the belt off center and striking the front cover for the belt. Put a more expensive Direct Imports pump back in it. Will hope it goes for more than 25K.

Updating this thread: 2 weeks everything still working great. Subie running the best it has since replacing the front cat sensor. The P0420 code is still there. I can clear it and it returns about every two weeks or 200 miles, but doesn't affect anything that I know of. I may replace the cats sometime if everything else is working OK. It has ran really well between its acting up spells, but clearly it's doing a lot better than that now. Been looking at the new Foresters for a family vehicle to run along side this Outback. I'm interested to see how a new 2.5 runs. I believe that one is 170 HP - another 5 up. If it makes it another week, this thing will be licked. Thanks again.

Just updating this thread. I'll give one a week for a couple more times, then a summation so someone with a similar problem won't have to go through all the posts. Right now, about a week later, the Subie is running the best it ever has. The front cat sensor (suggested by Ivans Imports) was sthe last thing I did. Never had one of the 2.5 H engines before and this one is running better than most of the I-4's rated in the 160 HP range. I see this is rated at 165 HP and it's doing all of that. Fingers crossed. Later.

Thanks Cougar. I don't know if some of these are different - this is the first I've owned. What I have on this one is a MAP. I did change it - more out of guessing. I didn't have a code to work from.

Well, I changed the front sensor (lot of fun - rear is a lot easier) and cleaned up the crank sensor. I'll update when I have news on the fixes. Hopefully it'll be good news. Thanks again, much appreciated.

Nothing really connected to temperatures. It hasn't been cold here in Iowa this year. I believe I'll change the front cat sensor, and clean off the crank sensor and see if the problem returns. It'll be great if this beats it. Thanks a lot to you Texan and Ivans. Appreciate the help.

Texan - CEL - P0420. I have changed the rear sensor, but nothing else. That code comes and goes. I have cleared it and it takes about a couple weeks to return and it always does. When it's gone and the Subie acts up - no CEL until the P0420 comes back - never right away. Ivans - I used OEM NGKs, but aftermarket wires. No oil on them. I have never changed the front sensor or the cataylitic convertors. I did have an exhaust leak I fixed in front of the convertors but it didn't help. So the front sensor can cause this. I looked at the trim on it with my scanner and it was always low - below 6 down to 0. I never checked it while it's acting up. Thanks a lot, I'll look at those things. Great car - big head ache. Appreciate it.

No it's not like the fuel level impacting it. In the middle of an episode, I have filled the tank and no difference. I try to keep the fuel in the tank at half full all the time to help with condensation. I can do the crank sensor - no problem. I'll try that today. The coil keeps coming to mind, too. I have never checked the resistance on that thing. Usually you get a different reading on them when they get hot and act up than when they're cold. I usually don't even mess with checking them since it doesn't seem to be conclusive about a problem. But some things about this sure brings it to mind. Really appreciate your help and responses

I did the pvc valve. Doesn't seem to be related to weather conditions or temperature - that sort of thing. When it acts up I always have full power at full throttle. I thought about changing the coil. No misfire code at all, now. I sprayed water over it to check for leakage or arcing and got nothing, but in working on other cars over the years, I know a coil can act up when it gets hot without any outward signs. Those seem like they didn't switch on and off like this thing does, though. It goes from great to lousy, then back to great in a fairly short time. What is the deal with the jet pump? I thought the only one there is the main fuel pump under the seat. This fuel pump has the cap on it. the new cap that came with the pump didn't fit right, so I used the old one. That cap could have some sort of leak. The pressure has always been OK, but I've always checked it with the engine running OK. It usually messes up in the middle of a trip with no way to put a guage on it. From experience that type of air leak can cause a problem if it's on the draw side, but this only has a filter, then directly into the pump with the intake completely submerged. I know the pressure in the system won't hold (over nite for instance) and the pump needs a second to pressurize for starting. Trying to put all this into still having the power at full throttle, though, when it acts up. If it was fuel volume, I shouldn't get that, but it's not like I hold full throttle very long. Maybe that cap is losing more fuel on the the output side of the pump than I think.

** I'm editting this three weeks after the original posting. I have put a summation of this problem as well as the solution and the other issues/solutions I have had with my Subie at the end of this thread. Maybe it'll help someone with theirs. ** Another edit aabout a year later. Maybe someone will fix theirs with this information. This last couple issues are at the end of my list. ** Another add/edit - About 8/1/2014 - Water pump I'm working on my car that I bought used a little over a year ago. It's turning out to be sort of a project car, I guess. I found a post here from 2006 that described what I have excactly, but I never saw a solution, so I'm trying with this one. My Subie Outback sedan with about 205.000 miles runs like a top for about three weeks. Then, driving along, it runs crappy for about half an hour. I recently had a purge valve solenoid/circuit code. I changed the solenoid and the code never came back. After that part change the car ran even better - runs really well. Over the last year or so I have changed the plug wires/NGK plugs (from a misfire code), the engine temp sensor (with a a Subaru part for the ECM not the gauge - this took care of an idle problem), the TPS (to fix erratic acceleration - no code, but took care of it), recent fuel filter and fuel pump (working on the current problem), and map sensor (also guessing on the current problem). Also cleaned the grounds to the engine. Fuel pressure is right at 44 psi. Regulator has been changed. It acts like it runs low on fuel, but never finally dies. It always catches and takes off again, then starts missing and dieing out, then catches and goes. This goes on for about half an hour, sometimes less. At full throttle I have full power. After a bout of this, it's fine for about another three weeks I had the alternator checked recently for voltage, thinking maybe it was messing up the sensor readings I got a put out of a little over fifteen volts and thought that must be it. I found the alternator fuse was missing from the engine compartment fuse box. I put that back in and the voltage is down to about 14.3 now. This is where I'm at now. Car running great, waiting for it to either keep running great or return to "normal" Open to all suggestions, Appreciate the help.

I know this is an old post, but thought I'd give it a shot. Trying to find the fix for this Legacy. I have the same problems exactly on a 2000. Have changed filter, pump, map sensor, TPS - all for different issues over the last two years. Wires and plugs (NGK's) changed about 6 months ago (from a misfire code). Then I had a code for the cannister purge solenoid, which I changed. Ran really well after that - for about three weeks, then back to "normal". I see where the plug wires were changed on this one, but it didn't help, apparently. Great car - just this nagging problem that I hate to give up on. Appreciate the help