matt167
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Posts posted by matt167
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Forester came with 215/60/16's if it had 16" wheels ( S models on early Fozzy's ) but had the same 205/70/15 on the 15" ( L models ) as that same generation Outback. The difference in circumference is 1/2"
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I use Partsouq for a lot with Subaru. Find the part number, and order. Stuff ships from the UAE but it's cheaper than MSRP by quite a bit. Also they ship right out via Fedex air and you'll get it quicker because of it. 2-3 days. Shipping most items cost $20.
You can also get the OEM black ROKI oil filters from them as well as any "JDM" parts that are still available
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If the Legacy is a GT/ Outback or SUS in 1999 then your 2.2L will be a direct swap. If the Legacy was an L/ Brighton trim then it will have a 2.2L. In 1999 the 2.2L was " phase 2 " and is electrically fairly different than " phase one " which was used 1990-1998. The fender tag will say what it was originally. If it says EJ25D than it had a 2.5L DOHC, but if it said EJ221/222/223 then that is the phase 2 2L where you would need either another phase 2 EJ22, a phase 2 EJ25 ( EJ251/252/253 ) or a JDM EJ20 engine ( EJ201/202/203 ).
If it's a phase 2 EJ22 car, I'd probably pass. buying with a bad engine is pretty safe, but buying with NO engine means you are missing key components. Phase 2 revisions had cam/ crank sprocket differences (ECU brands ), and MAF vs MAP as well as EGR differences where you need the original intake manifold
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do you want a cool project, or a commuter. The Loyale was the last EA series Subaru and production ended in 1994 worldwide. The EA engine is as reliable as an EJ22 BUT, it has been out of production for 25 years. Would make a nifty spare vehicle but there are many NLA parts making it not the best choice if your just looking for a cheap commuter.. An EJ based Legacy would be a much better car as a commuter
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Yup. LJ10/LJ20 were the first generations of the Jimny and the Brute was a sub model. 360cc 2 strokes.
Mine is a '93 Tin top which is kind of special because tin top did not come to the USA past 1989. But it uses the F6A 660cc engine with an RHB 31 turbocharger making ~60hp. The USDM 1.3 4cyl also made 60hp
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It's not a huge deal, but valves/ heads not being USA spec. worth noting. Once you get a part number, Partsouq, Megazip and Amayama could be used to source the parts. Beforward.jp has used and new parts direct but sometimes shipping is killer
I daily drive JDM vehicles ( Currently have a Suzuki Jimny, just sold my Suzuki Carry ). Parts can be hard to get, but it's mainly just expensive. Partsouq is quickest
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The EJ25 is a VERY rare engine in Japan. Some cars got them, most cars did not. Majority got the 2.0L or the 3.0L.
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use a tactrix cable and romraider to tune out the rear O2 sensor. O2 sensor eliminators are early 2000's band aids. Tuning is the better option. 2002 WRX needs tuning anyway
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Both are 1:1 center diff so identical.. However if you have a manual it is still 4.11. Auto only is 4.44
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The FB engine is chain drive. No maintenance schedule for that like the belts. If it's an EJ engine then it has a cam belt and the 105k/105m scheduled but no oil consumption issues
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Subaru is so finicky with the MAF sensors that a junkyard replacement is the most cost effective since they rarely go bad. Aftermarkets often do not work at all and OEM Subaru is really expensive.
If you have an oiled cone filter on your engine that may have led the faliure
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My moms 2016 had failure at 55k which was repaired under warranty but botched, and then repaired again 24 miles later. Then at 74k miles the engine developed a cam position signal issue that the dealer and Subaru both refused to honor. Dealer replaced sensor, wiring and then a control box but gave up when they knew it was internal. She now drives a Ford Escape. The recall came one week after she notified Subaru customer service she had gotten rid of the car. They had agreed the quickest and best repair would have been a long block swap, but she put the same money down on the Escape.. Subaru customer service told her they 'might' be willing to help, but they wouldn't give a straight answer until my mom paid $800 to have the engine pulled.
I think it effects 2016 Crosstrek only, and my moms was a 5spd. But I would recommend dumping a 2016 Crosstrek due to possible problems, and then Subaru to tell you CYA.
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pay for new hoses and belts. New spark plugs if it's not in their repair list with the shortblock. Your getting basically free labor on the clutch
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A car with 284k miles just has no value really. Whatever Carmax would give is what it would be worth as that would be the safe investment point should it need to be gotten rid of, and that is it right around $5-800 I would think. Very few people are going to want it so it's not a safe investment over that.. 2-3 years would put it over 400k miles depending on driving habits.
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They will run and run well over 300k. The problem is the rest of the car has 300k miles as well. controls/ switches are worn, bushings are gone, struts are gone. everything is just plain worn out. I'd offer $500 if it's solid and runs good, then replace all the struts and bushings, and everything else
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4 hours ago, idosubaru said:
oh right, wrong direction....subaru never had a USDM 4.44 final drive MT did they?
Subaru Forester XT. However Forester STI 4.44 5spds are pretty cheap to get. $4-500 from an importer. Japan also got dual range AFAIK since the importers from Japan sometimes have them. But the Aus/ EDM/ JDM EJ dual range is only 1.19:1 reduction in low range as I recall. The 4.44 turbo trans would do better
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There were a couple versions in Japan that were turbo and had a more pronounced scoop but not drastically different. The part might still be available and they should drop in to your hood. www.megazip.net. Search Subaru legacy, then 1996-1998 ( years are sometimes different in Japan ) look for turbo or sporty sounding ones, and check the hood listings
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Upping the weight could throw a code for the active valve system.. If it's using that much oil it will fail their test and you'll get a new short block. The warranty on that only covers to 100k so best to get it now while you can
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Yeah, but it's an option. Depends on his budget, that's why I mentioned it as an option.
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There's also the option of a complete JDM Ej20 in the $5-800 range. Several importers in Washington to drive up to and grab one
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The recall is probably due to my moms old car and probably others in the engine run. It was a 2016 5spd Crosstrek and an intake valve spring let go and shot the keeper through the valve, then what was left mangled the cam and destroyed the entire driverside head at 55k miles ( under warranty ). It was towed to dealer and repaired. After repair driven 24 miles and brought back due to improper repair where they re repaired it and it was fine for 20k miles and the engine was loud after that. After 20k miles, a cam signal issue cropped up on the passenger side couldn't be corrected electrically, and they deemed it her problem, even with SOA saying they 'might' assist her, but she had to agree to sign a paper to pull the engine at a cost of $800 up front.. I told her to dump the pile and buy a Ford and she did.. She bought a similar year Ford Escape Ecoboost since she didn't want brand new again. The Ford has a nicer interior, and fit and finish. Just overall a better car
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2001 and up was optioned with 215 60 16, but the old 15" was standard.
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My mom had a 2012 that used almost 2 quarts in 5,000 miles. The replaced engine used no oil in between oil changes. They got exactly the same mpg. She had a 2016 Crosstrek that also used no oil from the factory, and got 30-32 mpg. Until the engine failed. Repaired engine never got the mpg, and then it failed again and Subaru wouldn't stand behind it so she got away from Subaru
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195 55 16 is a better match. That's 1.5% larger in diamater
EJ22 aircon parts for VW Bus conversion
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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do yourself a favor, and retrofit one from an R134A car which will be all 1996 and newer. I would grab the entire top bracket from the engine to get one that will bolt up. Then you can use R134A coolant. Since your retrofitting stuff anyway, you can change the coolant specific parts