matt167
-
Posts
1130 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
5
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by matt167
-
-
the new sku's of Walmart Supertech synthetic is now GM DEXOS certified. Making it as good as any other synthetic but saving about $10. I generally don't run Walmart oil BUT, with an OEM certification I just might..
-
1
-
-
No longer available. Looks like the aftermarket may be available.
Likely 37114FE000 for a later model will work and Megazip shows as available. Additionally, a USDM cable may work.
-
They should fit and work. But they might not be 'right'. Never really thought about it but the round style vs square style just might be interchangeable. You would need to check the installed height and the angle but it just might work. There is no real reason to though except for reuse if you have them like you do
-
I know the DIS-2 does, since it was used in the past on Subaru. They probably don't have the testing in place.
In any case you do have other options.. Megasquirt 2/ Microsquirt injection is probably where I would go. They are used on Subaru all the time. $300, you can just mount it on the firewall and use part of the original harness. There is also DIY PNP setups where they fit in an OEM ecu case.. You would need a WRX or other 36 tooth crank sprocket as MS2 works best with it. It's a race car so idle air control functionality is moot.
-
I would use the DIS 2 or 4 box . They will give you better spark timing ( adjustable ) and you can tweak the rev limit.. You might want to call MSD to get the right part number that will work and to increase the rev limit. They make a few variations
-
1
-
-
6 speed swaps are getting fairly cheap. You can use a 04/05 transmission with an R160 3.90 diff and the front driveshaft from an automatic model Impreza. You will need 05+ WRX front axles, automatic driveshaft, clutch, flywheel, and slave cylinder. Also the DCCD Pro controller if you want to adjust the front/rear differential bias.
We do this swap all the time to the WRX's. It's not really any different on a non-turbo.
GD
He is limited to 2wd ( frt or rear ), and shifts between 2 gears. A 6spd is a waste of money in this case
-
2002-2007. Clutch systems changed in 2006 wrx back to a push style cluch which is what the RS trans is, but with a different slave cylinder for a 2002-2005 WRX, you can use either transmission
The front diff is 3.90 ratio, and with the 1.1:1 center diff, the rear diff is 3.54
-
It's a programmable race version of the DIS 2 box. It's the only DIS-2 that is in current production..
Looks like the tech manual for the DIS-4 says it can be used on 4cyl also. ad listings suggest 6-8 cyl only.
-
1
-
-
4.44 isn't going to do you any good if your running out of usable rpm. A 3.90 transmission would be the cats meow.. If you want to bump the rev limiter. MSD DIS-2 ignition boxes ( discontinued but obtainable ) will work for you. The Midget race box will as well and it's in production.
-
1
-
-
The question is why. If you only run 3rd and 4th. The 6spd is a waste. Gear ratio's are very close for 4th- 5th in a 6spd to 3rd -4th in a 5spd
This is for the WRX 5spd. Your 4.11 RS/ Forester transmission has a bit different gear ratio but you could save a TON by just going with a WRX 5spd
-
well if you were going to sell a car worth $4k, you would not put $3,500 into it.. Lesser car's have a larger value, at least here in NY as long as they have 120-150k miles.. A 200k mile car is a $2k car up to a point ( certainly in the 2003 range ). The other way to look at it is, the short block is guaranteed for 3/36, but the car might not last that long, or if it would even be kept that long. The 2.0L is a slight bit of a gamble but at under 1/2 cost... If this were a Corolla we would just be suggesting the junkyard or a cheap engine at best. Realistically a Subaru is no different. A cheap car to drive is a cheap car to own.. A Nissan Verse is not a fun car to drive either, but they sell lots of them to people who want a cheap car
-
The big thing to consider is the engine itself does not constitute the rest of the drivetrain or the condition of the vehicle.. 2.0L swaps are popular in areas where clean cars are harder to find because the car's simply are not worth the expense.
-
The WRX ECU has been spliced into that generation Impreza. It's not exactly right and you need to swap drivers cam sprocket and crank sprocket from a later model that is not VVT. It has been done and then it could be tuned
-
-
TBH I do not even think parts stores carry refill's anymore. Would have to special order. You would be about the first person in years I have heard actually want them. They were the cheap way out years ago. Now a cheap wiper is $4. They get frozen to windows, pulled, snapped. They loose their spring from use. They are actually meant to be replaced. I have refilled stainless wipers in some of the classic cars that I have had and it's a pain to get them right. I wish there were off the shelf replacements for those, but not always.
As far as what I buy. Either the Trico wipers from Walmart or the middle of the road RainX. ~$20 per set. Anything more is a waste, and going to Autozone is a rip. Wipers are a large markup at those stores along with washer fluid
-
I considered the HF Hub tamer but bought a shop press ( from HF ) instead. Get a lot more use out of a shop press vs, a hub tamer that does one thing... They probably put the TSB there due to people breaking hubs doing it incorrectly. Hub tamer always works right but a shop may or may not have one.
-
Some cases you can. If your car has OEM wipers, that refill will work... But really, $20 at Walmart gets a pair of decent wipers.
-
Yeah that would probably work - but the Proto has a larger, heavier hammer unit. Can still find them used for now.
I feel ya on the '50 Plymouth. I regularly service my mom's '56 Buick Roadmaster. I recently had to deal with poorly balanced reproduction drums. Watch what you buy. One of her (expensive) reproduction drums was 14 oz out of balance.
GD
yeah, hopefully they just need turned and adjusted. The previous owner redid all the brakes and they work and stop good, but they pulsate a bit.. The rear drums are removed with the keyed/ tapered hub at the end of of the axle.
-
We currently use the OTC Hub Grappler:
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6575-Hub-Grappler-Kit/dp/B004ZG69D2
There are (quite a few) other options. Including the Kent-Moore official service tool:
https://www.handsontools.com/Kent-Moore-J-45697-Hub-Remover-Replacer-Kit-J45697_p_33440.html
We use a Proto 4001G hub puller to push out axles that are rusted to the splines. This puller is now discontinued unfortunately and I don't think there are any good alternatives that have the hammer adapter.
GD
OTC 7394 would do the trick and is still available. I have to get one for the rear drums on my '50 Plymouth
-
transmission tag is on the bellhousing
-
It won't be too expensive in no rust CA. Bearings need pressed and most shops remove the knuckle and use a shop press.
-
$800 here, but a short block is $50-100
-
Bad. Loose Quench effects the flame front negativly
-
yeah, your quench would be all messed up and your compression height way down. It'll run, but compression and hp will be in the toilet.
SOHC EJ25 rods should all interchange as well as 1999 only EJ25D. I have a core quality EJ251 that I could pull rods from, but I don't have the time to pull it apart.
Oil change frequency - H6 Outback(s)
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
No real need for expensive stuff if you want to bypass. Wix 24755 filter mount and a Wix 51050 bypass filter.. Pressure off the engine, and drop it back ( filtered ) to the pan.. You can use a sandwich adapter if you chose or just Tee under the alternator at the pressure switch.