alaskaloyale

Well, I replaced the passenger-side wheel bearings with FAG-brand sealed units. It cut the amount of total noise the car makes when driving somewhat, and completely eliminted the rattling I heard from that side when I drove with the windows down. Definitely a worthwhile job to do. I did discover while I was in there that the tie rod end and ball joint boots are both cracked, so I am going to need to replace them sometime soon. However, the main noise I was experiencing (that disappears when turning right and gets louder when turning left) did not improve at all. Is it possible that this is from the drivers side wheel bearings, or could it be something else? The drivers side tire is wearing slightly more on the outside than the inside, which makes me think it is a tie rod issue. If you guys could help me shed some light on the issue that would be fantastic. Thanks again for everyone's help and knowledge!

Replaced the front passenger wheel bearings with FAG brand sealed bearings I picked up from a local bearing supply place for $32 apiece (a little steep, but that's the price you pay for not waiting for shipping) I didn't put in new seals since the bearings are sealed, hopefully that doesn't end up being a bad decision, people seem to go back and forth on this forum. Unfortunately, the rubber boots on the ball joint and the tie rod end turned out to be pretty shot, and I'm assuming that the situation is the same on the other side. Those will have to be replaced in the near future, I'll probably do the wheel bearings on the drivers side at the same time. After that, I took the car on an 1100-mile roadtrip to Soldotna Alaska and back for a music festival. The car ran pretty well, only losing a little over a quart of oil over that distance and getting almost exactly 30mpg on the highway, going between 65 and 85 the whole way. It does have a shudder in the steering system that is slowly getting worse however, it is almost imperceptible around town and at 55mph, but becomes noticeable around 65 and gets progressively worse with speed. I will need to take care of that soon, my guess is that it will be cured by new ball joints and tie rod ends.

I can't seem to get the screws out on the gas filler tube (the three behind the gas door), they look a little rusty, and I've hit them with PB Blaster a couple times to no avail. Considering just drilling them out and using the one from the parts car that came apart really easily.

I have an 88 GL Wagon, 5spd DR. It makes a very loud rumbling noise that starts at about 25mph and increases in volume with speed. It gets much louder during left turns at higher speeds, and gets quieter or totally silent during right turns. I ordered new wheel bearings, but I'd like to know if I'm likely to need any other parts before I start tearing the hubs off my daily driver. Any input would be appreciated

You should be able to buy it at most grocery/department stores. It's used for all sorts of stuff, most notably to make soap, they used to use it for automotive antifreeze, and it's in lots of food products.

Tried to pull off the gas filler tube last night but the phillips head screws were seized pretty bad, going to try some penetrating oil and more force tonight. This is definitely worse than just some pumps being high flow. At the absolute lowest fill rate at every gas pump I've tried, it backs up and disables the pump about once every gallon or two. I can only put about $20 in the tank at a time before getting bored.

I recently (last week) purchased an 88 GL Wagon, 4wd, 5spd. It has a strange quirk with the gas tank where fuel doesn't seem to want to go in. If the pump is used at anything above the absolute minimum flow rate, gas backs up in the filler and shuts off the pump. I'm guessing air isn't escaping the tank fast enough, but I can't see any obstruction looking into the filler. How is the tank vented, is it just through the filler hole? Does anyone have any advice? Thanks in advance!

Here in interior Alaska: Gas - $3.94/gal Insurance - $700/year/vehicle (22yo male, no tickets) Registration/Tags - $110 every two years No Emissions testing or safety inspection