hkuspelite45@yahoo.com

ASV reed valves?????

No, its soot, it looks just like velvet. Its on the inside of the air cleaner and carb as opposed to between the air cleaner housing & filter.

I started loosing power on my 86 Brat, so I checked the air filter and found it completely black inside the housing and carb. I thought it may have been left over from the previous owner sense I never had a problem with the engine, so I cleaned it up and replaced the filter but a few hundred miles later it was the same. What causes this?

My problem is that most of the areas I travel in New Mexico are remote, you might be 2 hours from a main road or an area with cell service. And although most places I putz are not bad, they can be rugged. I have busted stuff before in Jeeps on these roads. I take it that the CV shafts (axle shafts ?) mentioned are easy and quick to replace?

.......but leave it more or less stock in its appearance. I've found tons of lift info but not much on just making a stock hight Brat stronger. By stronger I'm talking about suspension, driveline, etc. (not more horse-power). I really only mess around on FS roads. mountain trails, and in the desert, so I dont need a lift. I just want to make it stronger and more reliable sense the roads I do travel are often quite remote. What are the weak parts? Any suggestions on modifying the weak parts? What is the largest tire I can fit without doing fender mods?

I drove my 86 Brat today for the first time in the rain, not a hard rain just very humid, cold and damp. It ran fine but just seemed to have no stones or get up and go, at one point I was on the breezway and got up to 55, but then it took about 5 miles to hit 65. It never hesitated or missed, NOTHING seemed to be wrong other than it had no stones. Normally it runs fine, infact normally its allot faster than I thought it would be when I first got it. The engine compartment was completly dry and I didnt go through any puddles. So is there a bug with these on wet days?

So if I'm understanding what I'm reading.....The HH may be sticking and that is causing the clutch issue?????? From what I can tell, it seems that the clutch is not fully disengaguing when I depress the pedal, and that is why I get the slight grinding when going into reverse and a bit more resistance when going into each gear.......How would the hill holder affect it not disengauging when I depress the pedal? Wouldnt it be the opposite problem? Someone tell me if I'm wrong here or slap me silly tell I get it !

Anybody.........

I replaced the clutch on my Brat about 3,000 miles ago, I noticed that the hill-holder stopped working about a week ago and now I am getting a bit of grinding when I go into reverse. It also just seems to be taking a bit more effort to go into all gears. So to my questions: 1) Is this the normal indication of the cable needing adjusment? 2) Is this "normal" mileage for the first adjusment? (I dont ride/slip the clutch) 3) When adjusting the cable, how many turns of the nut are typicle? 4) Any tips or tricks when adjusting them both?

Well we got about 10" of snow here so I took it into the mountains for a bit and I must say that this thing handles snow better than my Jeep Cherokee! It wasnt much snow granted, and I really didnt need to go 4X with the FWD, but I figured what the hey, I gotta "test" it out ya know! I made a run from 7,000' up to about 10,000' and I never left 2nd gear or spun a tire. I went by a Tahoe, a full size Dodge pu and an H2 that were all stuck trying to pull their heavy asses up the mountain, they just staired at me with open mouths as I puttered by them crankn' my AM radio I had my camera but like a dummy I didnt take any pix

I was thinking about the bigger motor (EA-82) or mabey even a turbo but I need to find out what that is gonna take to do (both cost and effort). From what I understand the 82 is pretty much just drop in. I dont have inside work space right now so I was thinking of building a motor in a spare room and swaping it out. Does anybody build crate motors? Also is their a good source for rebuild components? SAMO: I dont think I will off road it with a lift, but was thinking more of a Rally look. Mabey some bigger rally style rims/tires and some brush bars/lights up front (intercooler behind it )

The wells look perfect but I do need to check the area behind the shock mounts that supposedly collects water. I have'nt had a chance to pull them yet but what are all the access panels in the bed for? The 2 by the wells I assume are for access to the shocks.... I belive this has the EA81-1800 motor, from what I can tell anyway. Thanks for the complements on the pic. Thats 12,000' Sandia Peak in the background, well its behind the clouds anyway.

An '86GL with under 160k From AZ with not a speck of rust or collision damage. Interior is OK with a cracked dash pad, one cracked tailight and a tiny exhaust leak. I got it for $1,500 plus I put in a new clutch & front strut mounts for $250 total. What years did the Brat have the 1600 vs 1800?

Where is that one located at? And it you say it goes to the manifold itself, NOT the air cleaner housing? The only line I can find is the 1-9/16th heat riser it self coming from the right side exhaust collector, then going up to the air cleaner housing. That is where the leak is, at the collector. From what your saying it sounds as if I need to pull the collector and do some welding. Rats!

I just bought an 86 Brat and have noticed that there is a very small leak inside the exhaust manifold where the heatriser attaches to it. It is hardly noticable when running, I actually thoght it was a small gasket leak at first. But I found it when I was replacing the riser tube, there was a small amount of soot inside the pipe and I could feel a small pulse when I covered the open end with my hand. This is my first Soob, so I'm not sure about this, but I know some 80's cars did infact scavenge some exhaust gas back into the intake as part of the emissions system. Or do I just have a cracked weld ? BTW it has Cali smog. and passed my emissions test here (N.M.) so well they gave me a 2 year registration, which is rare!