canedog18

Awesome!! Thanks for all the info.

While loading up a big rolled up rug I accidentally smashed the lid to the storage pocket on the dash of my beloved 2001 Forester. The base and latch are fine but the outer shell is toast. Not a happy camper. I have looked around online but can't seem to find any place that I can order one from. I have also checked local salvage yards and so far no luck. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Pains me to look at the dash knowing how being in a hurry to get home from Lowes cost my interior. Thanks for any ideas!!

I wish I owned my house and garage, but I rent it !! I remeber places like JC Whitney used to sell engine blankets. I have no idea how effective they are and it sure would be a minor hassle going under the hood at least twice a day. I may try that castol start up oil as my oil is due for a change, but I have a feeling it's more of a gimmink than anything else.

My '97 Outback has had the slap since about 60k or so, right after I bought it used. It had the cold weather package and I garage it at night and plug in the block heater when the temp drops in to the 40's. I have noticed that the block heater helps with piston slap to some degree. I don't know if it makes much difference but I try and plug it in right after I get home from work while the engine is already warm, thinking that maybe it will be a touch warmer in the AM.

That was the missing link. It was a 2 minute job after taking off the sail. You both have saved me a trip to the dealer, 'cause that's where I was headed. On the drivers side, the panel was not coming off, but I was able to swing the bottom out of the way and put in my replacement speaker, but I decided to take the passenger side off completely. I can't thank you both, and this entire board enough. Something so simple was so hard it was a major aggrivation. for the record. the Haynes manual for my car said NOTHING about the sail in the panel removal section. You fine people are better than Haynes !!

I just replaced the door speakers in my '97 Legacy Outback. I can't get the front passenger side on. I used a door panel removal tool and was very careful taking it off, but now it doesn't want to go back on correctly. The back half fits in nicely, but the front part, where the sideview mirror is will not fit it tightly. The gap in the window molding widens towards the front. Is there some trick to this? The rear doors were a snap, and to replace the speakers you don't have to disconnect the wiring, but the passenger door is just not going in. I quit trying because I got frustrated and I didn't want to mess up the panel and have to buy a new one. Thanks for any tips!

Okay, I may be behind the times here, did GM buy Subaru as well as Saab? When did this happen? aaaahhhhhhh

Just for the record, my '97 OB with 125,000 didn't leak a drop with Mobil 1 5w-30. I do get piston slap so I'm thinking about trying different oils ( likely in vain) but I have been a Mobil 1 man for most of the cars life- I bought used at 62K. I have been getting into oil specs more and am liking the Amsoil brand a lot, I may switch over. Also the Pennzoil High Mileage dino oil has a good viscosity rating when warm, but since my piston slap comes when cold, I'm not sure how that rating would help. Amsoil seems to be by most accounts thicker but still flows well cold. I also like the Pure One filter.

I use that method of draining the oil filter, it works well. That Fumotovalve looks interesting, I think the Outbacks have enought clearance to use the tube fitting version. Somebody had a quick disconnect hose version of that a while back, this one looks a lot more reliable. My concearn of mess was more for the driveway than my hands, but latex gloves are a good idea. I also think after I poke a hole in my Pure One filter and let it drain I'm going to get a plastic grocery bag ( no holes) and hold it around the filter after I break it loose with the filter wrench. One last thought on the top drain method. I thought I'd read somewhere a number of years ago something about the swirling action of the suction being able to get the junk off the bottom of the pan better than just a gravity drain. Not really sure either way on that one.

Mods, I didn't think this went through, so I sent it again. Feel free to delete one of these. Thanks

Has anyone used a Top Sider or other style of pump to remove motor oil? The idea of a cleaner oil change appeals to me. I have a '97 Outback and as far as I can tell the tube would hit the bottom of the oil pan when inserted through the dipstick. Pros, cons? As always, thanks for any advice.

Has anyone used a Top Sider or other style of pump to remove motor oil? The idea of a cleaner oil change appeals to me. I have a '97 Outback and as far as I can tell the tube would hit the bottom of the oil pan when inserted through the dipstick. Pros, cons? As always, thanks for any advice.

Boy, ATF in the carb and Berryman bring back some great old memorys!! I remember getting hair singed from staring into a carb to see if it was getting enough gas while reving it and having it backfire through the carb. I learned a lesson on troubleshooting and how engines work the hard way!! Going through a can of Berryman and fiddling with the jets on my old Q-jet Monte Carlo to try and get a little more jump out of it. Misspent youth for sure.

A buddy of mine's dad had a Ford Ranger that he used for his daily 120 mile round trip commute to work. He'd been going to the same Wiffy Lube for years, but one time they didn't put any oil back in the crankcase and his engine seized up on him. He got a new motor out of them and was able to go car payment free for another 4 years because the truck had a lot of miles on it and he was getting ready to trade it in. I don't think the new engine ever saw the bottom of a Wiffy Lube bay again!!

Ideally I have always tried to throw in an alignment when I get new tires. Something else to consider would be condition of shocks/struts when looking at new tires. Old , worn out struts can shorten the life of tires as well.