Kharl

Hello! This car is a 93 Legacy wagon and it was painted three weeks ago, the guy did had to replace the rear trunk door and probably did a bad electrical job. what should i look for to fix that? it looks like it works inverse, it shows a open light when it is close and off when it is open

Hello guys! This is an 07 Outback, 2.5 4EAT. The car drives perfectly, the transmission shifts great but today, while parking, i opened the door to better see and avoid an object and i noticed a weird and tiny noice come from under the car.In quiet street i did accelerate and i the noise do change rhythm when shift from P to N and to D. i uploaded a video to Youtube so you can better appreciate. https://youtu.be/gKqysQKphnE

HI guys! thank you a lot for the time you spend helping me with this i decide to do a rebuild, all electronic was bad, they put a new diode card and an used regulator, and gave me warranty, everything working fine by now Thank you!

ok i will check thwe fuses, ground and both terminals of the fuse i will wait an hour since i have to pick up a frind at the train stop and i will save time and ccharge by turning the car on and doing the test when i go out to pick him up its a 10 minutes trip i hope not to broke something in the car and that the battery last for those 10 minutes

its a Legacy 93 ej22 2.2 liters (i have checked all the fuses they all looks good

so, that should be locate dun der the dash right? and out of the fuse box

thats what i thought, i watche dall the fuses and none of them are named soethingrelated to alt or engine i have the service manual

what fuses? the ones in the cabin or the ones in the engine compartment?

OK i need a reliable solution, a solution tha last at least for some nice years used alternators are a whole matter of luck, i have heard of used alternators that last 5 10 years and others that last only weeks.... the best solution would be a new enuine one but... before reaching that top solution... do you suggest me to try for a usend one? an dhow to choose one that could last? or.. i was watching this one on ebay, what do you think? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1992-Subaru-Legacy-H-4-2-2L-Engine-80AMP-Alternator-/190521461502?hash=item2c5bf6cafe:m:mgi-Sx1mwI30yJAe0Sej3IQ&vxp=mtr osed one sin my country ranging from 40-60us that one from ebay woul dcost me about us150 (with the shipping to Dominican Republic)

those small wires you mention.. are all inside the alternator? my fear is if the problem is not the alternator neither the battry it scares me a lot that could be something else

battery was dead so i am charging it (slow charge) thats why its voltage is 12.3 when i started the car the voltage drop and fixed at 11.87v voltage at alternator terminals 11.85v the earth is very good very low almost 0 resistence and the test of alternator frame to battery negative pole shows almsot 0 resistence... everything points to the alternator

give me 3 minutes i amgoing to doit

Great!! thank you a lot for your help need chelp, Sorry for my lack of experience "Alternator terminal to alternator frame." what is alternator terminal? the connector with 4 clamps (how could i doit without disconecting it then? or the bolted terminal? the last thing (the double check) is for checking continuitti right?

i can do tha right now those voltage at the alternator output, and battery.. were do i ge tit, putting the votlmeter pins on the battery poles (with cables on?)

the battery is new and the alternator i am sure is not charging, but could something lese block the charge form alternator to battery, i mean could the alternator be good and the charge not passing to the battery due something extra?

Hi guys after 4 years of random battery discharges, two new batteries (one exploded), yesterday, the battery and brake lights came on, and today the vehicle shut off while running. everything points to the alternator but... i had an used alternator in my house and i did the install, and jump start the car and 10 minutes later int went off again, TWO ALTERNATORS? what other thing could cause the battery not charging?

Subaru Legacy 93 L Station Wagon FWD USDM

thank you for answer this vehicle only has one o2 sensor

Hi! i have read that on this model there is not a really an appreciable difference in gas mileage, i know it is for keeping the gases wihtin the manufacturer range... but usually it improves the fuel mileage since without it (the o2 sensor) the system by default would set to a rich mixture... after installed the new o2 sensor, the check engine light went off and the mileage increased by 0.6 or 1mpg (several method to measure) but i wonder please, check the image i know the sensor should be installed like the no. 1 example BUT mine (after relocated, because this vehicle had catalitic removed) the muffler guy installed like the no. 2, he told me that the o2 sensor does not need to be in "full" contact with the gases, that only needs a "little" doze of the gases in order to make its job.... not too satisfied with this, i wanted to ask you if i should go back to the muffler shop and make him to desolder the o2 sensor socket again and to make him to solder at its correct level so the part of the o2 sensor that must be exposed to the gases is fully exposed? just like the no.1?

i checked that switch and the solenoid is fine too, i want to check the relay, how do i get access to it?

Hi guys! This is a 93 FWD Automatic Legacy i had several years with the shift lock system not working properly, some times unlock when i depress the brake pedal; often does nothing and then i have to manually unlock it (pressing the button) but now, i just decide... i wan tot pursuit the problem and fix it! (with your help, of course) i just disassembled the shift lock plastics.. and i used my multimeter to figure it out that there is no voltage at the solenoid when i press depress the break pedal so following back the chain.. i guess I should now test the solenoid relay.. am i right? Where can i locate it?

problem solved, TCM bad

HI! i am having a similar problem but mine is stuck in 3rd! it has new fluid, new filter the test I have done: all the transmission sensor and solenoids are perfect (I followed the manual procedure for testing and they are all within the range (measuring the resistances in the transmission conector) but the throttle position is bad, -the resistance between pin 2 and 3 was 8.8 instead 12 -the resistance between pin 2 and 4, fully open, was 0 - 1.7 instead 3-5 -the resistance between pin 2 and 4, fully closed was 8.8 instead 10-12 and I haven't been able to test the TCU connectors, I did pull out the TCU and I open it and everything inside looks pretty fine, no burn smell no blown chip can the TPS put the transmission in failsafemode? I want to do the test tot he TCU connector but I don't know what is what I have to do, I have to measure the voltage of the TCU connector (female ones) or the harness connector (the male ones) (I don't know which voltage I would meter to the TCU connectors if I remove the connector to accss the pin.... duh..) but is what I have to do to measure the voltage with the connectors in ints place (in the TCU, and to touch it wth the multimeter's probes in the back side of the harness? while connected to the TCU? sorry maybe bad written sentences due my little english any help will be HIGHTLY appreciated since I am in a remote area, and I use that car for moving my grandma who is very old and that's the only we have for that purpose thanks to its frameless windows (already gone in latest models, very bad from subi)

Hi William! i have almost the same syptoms you had.. and what catched my attentions of this post is what you mention about the cv axles, in my case yesterday i noted that both CV axles have a little play, an di want to know if thats normal, mines are not so separated from the case like 2 inches, mines are fitted well (i think so) but are not thight i can move them with my hands and i wonder is can someone tell me if should have little movement or should be able to shake it at all wiht my hands (little background; last week i sent the car to the shop because was leaking oil and they suggested me to remplace all the seals (the kid with all the engine seals) which i found ok, the give me the car back with no leak but have some issues like that roughness when acceleratin, a little lack of power, a huuuuuuu noise comming from the timming belt and there is a missing bolt that connect the engine with the transmission...