MuddyThunder

**update I am running the stock intake not the spider (this is a very budget build) don't know if this makes any difference at all

*update looked at the white canister and all the vacuum lines are hooked up and i don't see any cracks in the canister, I will post a picture tomorrow after work of the nightmare, also i did find out that if i get enough boost built up it acts like it stops getting fuel at high rpm's (4-5k) don't know if this is related or not

my vf7 had similar issues and when I pulled it out I didn't see anything wrong but then I found a crack between the up-pipe and waste gate and figured that was the problem

I will take a look at that as soon as the coffee is done thank you john!

so i did the td04 swap issues with the vacuum that is around the turbo, here are the problems : heater controls no longer work, turbo light on dash is constantly on even with the motor not running, and if i build any boost i got oil dumping onto the exhaust externally and cooking off. some specifics is that i rebuilt the turbo and went ahead and put a stock wrx top mount intercooler under the hood and from what i can hear the blow off is working fine so that is good but if anyone has done the swap and could take pictures of all the vacuum lines coming off the passenger fender that would be awesome! I have searched and searched and cannot find anything, I want to sell the car once its done but dont want to sell it knowing it isn't right, anyhow thanks in advance!

Hello everyone so i got this turbo wagon it has the sunroof and 5speed "awd" with lsd all the way around now my question is that the turbo went out so i figured i would do the td04 swap to it and all that good stuff but because I am an expecting father pretty much any moment as the due date was last wednesday i dont have time for it and i was thinking about selling as is...so what would be a fair price? i already have the turbo and intercooler....also would anyone be interested in it that is on here? located in oregon, US Thanks!

So I deliver pizza's in my Subaru and yesterday my car started to randomly backfire multiple times when i would decel. which is out of the norm. before i would really have to load the motor for it to get a good backfire which I rarely do...the only thing I have done to the car recently is drive a lot more sane...but anyway I thought nothing of the backfiring just that it was strange...now the even more weird part is that today once the motor got warmed up the turbo just about sounds like a diesel turbo...like i was side by side with a powerstroke and my turbo was about as loud as his....didnt know if that meant the bearing is toast or the turbine or what any help would be appreciated! Thanks! ~MuddyThunder

I will once i have the money and can find one...if anyone has a spare that hasn't turned to plastic let me know, if it is in my price range I will get it, in the mean time I'm stuck here at home trying to figure out where I can find a sensor that I have seen nobody talk about anywhere. stupid fat hands pressed the wrong button, but anyway gotta love life and all the little twists and turns....as soon as I get this car running proper I will be looking at selling it to try and get a savings built up while the Boss is on maternity leave come summer time but there is still lots of little things I want to get fixed up on it

So not sure how many people were following my other post but I had to jimmy rig an air filter setup which isn't the problem it just caused what I think the problem is...so there is a sensor (i believe) on top of the AC lines and such attached to the passenger side strut tower with a vacuum line hooked up to it with a wire connection down below it...my problem is while trying to get my jimmy rigged setup to get into position so the hood would close the small piece of plastic that the vacuum hose slides onto snapped off into the hose...I'm just going on a haunch but does that sensor communicate to the ECU telling it what the boost pressure is? allowing the system to send vacuum to the wastegate and allow it to properly work? because before just sitting in the driveway I would be able to throttle it up hard and let off and watch the wastegate function and now nothing...also when it is boosting down it also sounds like the air is being forced to exhaust through the turbo because it sounds like a flutter almost...I would love if someone could give me more info...as I'm not too familiar with this whole turbo thing...anyway thanks once again! EDIT: vehicle is a 1988 GL-10 EA82T with all the options but a non-digi dash

As of now I am trying to find a ride over to my mom's place where the lifted one sits and rob its air tube and make something work hopefully and yes being homeless before I can afford a mansion...we all got our hopes and dreams right? lol

so a random thought....would a non turbo ea82 air tube work in place of the turbo one? just keep the turbo MAF with the turbo?

so a bit of an update and kind of a 911 emergency as I'm a college student and deliver pizza's for a job i was trying to put a new air filter back on when the main air tube going to the top of intake snapped off because this turbo turns rubber to plastic...I will refuse to even see if it will fire up and run okay because i don't want any chance to dust the motor or turbo....anyone know of a source for these? I did a quick search and found nothing and figured more eyes looking the better I would need something ASAP if at all possible I got a call out on a couple of buddies and will let you guys know! Thanks! as far as EJ'ing it if I keep the car that long it will get a STi motor and running gear

thank you all for the input I'm not sure what everyone else is getting for mileage but I'm consistently getting 23-25 no matter how hard or soft I drive it...and as far as the Y pipe goes I don't think i can install because i have the pipe coming out of my exhaust ports up into the turbo and then a down pipe out to the tail pipe BUT is 2" the secret number? because I know i got plenty of that due to a EJ swap prep but I think I'm gonna fork out a little bit more money once taxes come back and get a turbo kubota diesel for the lifted wagon lol

Hello all, just curious to see if anyone knows the easiest and cheapest ways to go about improving gas mileage and power at the the same time....and please refrain from the infamous " well the only way to put out much power is to get the wrx td04 and install and o ring the block etc. " I'm too broke for that...if i had the money for that i would just go buy an sti lol what i have done already is straight piped it from the turbo back took off all the heat shield around the turbo added two electric fans with a high flow radiator everything runs like a top and its a head turner because it sounds nice...now whats the easiest way to go about putting a cone air filter on? ive researched some and i know i have to probably build my own adapter for MAF but other than that what type of sparkplugs would be best? i just got cheap ones in it now didnt think there would be a huge gain there and as for exhaust is there a size of pipe to give it the happy medium? because i got some free pipe to put on it and the size is between 2.5 and 3 which i noticed a huge drop in power due to lack of back pressure but she sounds nice lol but that being said i dont care for sound just as long as i can still hear it...anyway thanks for reading and i hope to get back to you guys later today! oh also where can i get a gasket for the sunroof? mine has a casual leak on the front drivers corner

So here is a new one for me...the car smokes only when decelerating not when accelerating its got a Webber carb and didn't smoke prior to the car delete but after it got deleted it smokes I noticed with the air filter off the white pcv valve has a steady mist of oil when revving it up...but doesn't smoke...but when you choke it out it smokes...not sure what's going on I'm hoping the motor didn't get messed up...the reason the cat got deleted was because it was plugged up...any help is appreciated I just changed the filter and pcv valve today..anyway thanks!

So I got a simple easy question...how many fuses should be hot all the time on a 88 gl-10 ? I think it should only be two our three right? Radio, clock, and door locks...I hope somebody knows...I have been fighting a draw issue and last night I pulled fuses to prevent the draw and I pulled a little over 10 total...anyway thanks!

Well it ran for 15 minutes after I replaced the wire...battery was only at about 12.5 volts when I fired it up but I have been dealing with this issue forabout a well and a half now...I think that the regulator in the alternator may be defective..

I forgot to add that its a brand new battery as well only a week old..

So once again little stupid issues have popped up on my 88 Subaru GL-10...I drove it for about 3 months with no issues..it has a brand new alternator and using a multimeter it is doing its job but no power was getting to the battery..I put a new wire in that goes from the back of the alternator tires into the main harness that goes into the car and also into the bottom of the fuse box under the good that then goes over to the positive on the battery..and yet the battery still went dead after driving for about 15 minutes...any suggestions would be very grateful! Thanks again!

I had a spare factory seal luckily...and where is the pcv valve located? the other odd thing that it does is it has oil coming out of the cannister out in front of the motor on the passenger side...my lifted wagon doesn't have oil come out of there so i researched it and found that if something is plugged it will do that...I think the pcv valve is the white guy that plugs into the bottom of the air inlet? not sure though...may be another one hiding...? anyway thanks for the input! ~Regards MuddyThunder

Hello to everybody once again! soooo going back to my wagon...had numerous vacuum leaks after sitting for 5 years...found them all finally but the other day I was on my way across town and i just get onto the highway and there are clouds of smoke coming from my car...so i get off on the next exit and pull into a parking lot...pop the hood and find oil EVERYWHERE on the driver side of the motor...I put another two quarts of oil in her and fire her up and it is slinging off the flywheel and 15ft away...after about 2 quarts of oil end up on the ground the tow truck shows up to tow my little car for the 6th time in the last 30 days or so...get it home pull the tranny expecting to see nothing left of the rear main...come to find out it is flush up against the flywheel...main question is what do I check out to prevent getting so much pressure in my crank so this doesn't happen again? I put a new seal in and pinned it in there for now...any help would be appreciated! ~Regards MuddyThunder

no vac diagram under the hood...I limped it to school and looked at it with the automotive instructor and found that on my passenger side valve cover the hose that goes up into the air intake to the turbo the hose was completely cracked out...so I replaced that and it still ran like crap...he said that if the timing belts are good then play with the distributor...I went to our local subaru tuning shop "FTW" and they said distributor...went to a family friend and he said distributor so i went home loosened it up and now it is sitting alllllll the way over on one side of the adjustment and is running fairly well...still doesnt have as much pep as it did before the cat delete so I think my timing belts are a tooth or two off...

sooo after tinkering with her i found that it acts like it stalls out whenever the turbo light on the dash comes on...it backfires like mofo....but she sounds happy when the turbo light is off...plugging in the black connector for the ecm under the steering wheel shows a code 22 which is knock sensor I believe which is located kind of under the hose going into the back of the block right?

Hello, normally I wouldn't be needing help so fast but I got school in a few hours and I have been pulling late nighters trying to figure this out...I got a 1988 GL-10 turbo 5speed AWD the whole problem with this car started when the front main started dumping oil so I took it apart replaced the front main and in putting it all back together stripped one of the tensioner pulley bolts on the timing...drilled it out put in a heli coil and timed it all of that is good but in the process of doing all of this I popped the top off of the sensor on top of the coolant coming into the motor, got that replaced then found out that the sensor directly behind the intake and throttle body that goes directly into the crank (I think the knock) wasnt connected properly, so i pulled that, swapped it with another I had then proceeded to check for water leaks (because they are notorious for getting hard) and I did, so I pulled the fuel rail on the passenger side off to replace the hose hidden up inside there and replaced any others that were iffy, I guess my question is what hoses go where? it runs but has always idled low ( im just running a straight pipe down pipe so I think that is my low idle) when I go to take off from a stop its a little luggy it kind of seems if I accelerate and keep the turbo light off on the dash it runs well as soon as I roll into it and that light pops on it doesnt go anywhere and if i slowly get out of it until the light goes away it takes off like its holds the boost when you shift...I think I got a vacuum hose wrong somewhere it was like 3am when I did it and I wake up at 430-5am so I was a little tired...any help would be greatly appreciated and if you help cure the problem I will owe you a great big box of donuts or the best cup of coffee your choice (he he he) ~Thanks MuddyThunder

prepping the motor is easy...I have done it multiple times...but that was with an actual shop with all the amenities lol the turbo definitely has more stuff on it but it is still pretty straight forward...if I do end up having to pull the motor I will do valve cover gaskets as well...but its only a matter of finding a branch on the old oak tree that will hold the motor lol...I can hear the banjo's already