Tachometer

From what I understand from Subaru the compressor will fill the tank when the computer sees low pressure in the tank, or when there is a demand on the system for air...so that should be automatic. You can activate it simply by grounding the pressure switch or compressor relay. One of the diagnostic tests you can do is to ground a strut solenoid and ground the air charge solenoid. That will fill the strut with air, and the computer will be perfectly happy to do so. The switches I am planning on installing would allow me to do that whenever I wanted. I'd just be taking over for the computer in a couple areas, but leaving it to take care of the rest. The computer isn't that bright...and I bet I can trick it into thinking it is working. It's like using an S-AFC..it inturupts the sensor signal going into the ECU which "tricks" the ECU into seeing a different sensor signal than it really is. Hell, with the wiring diagram I could even force it to believe that the height sensors are all reading "normal" regardless of ride height. I must admit this is getting pretty complex...but there are two big reasons why I'd like to give this a shot. One, it is cheaper than buying a new front strut All I'd need is wire (which I have a ton of already) and some 12V switches (which are around a dollar and change each) and time. Two, it would be fun to do...a cool lil project! My biggest concern is that the air suspension computer will throw error codes on the dash when none of the height switches are connected. I'm pretty sure this will work...and work well. Ya know...thinking it all 100% through now it actually won't be that complex at all. All the wires I need to fiddle with are at the ECU, so it's just a matter of running it all to where I want. Of course...I say all this now from my computer...and when I try to do this, I'll completely destroy the air suspension and end up with coilvers

Turbone, I'm thinking of doing something similar, but maybe keeping it a bit more simple. If I go to the ECU controlling the air suspension, I could just take manual control of the grounds leading to all the solenoids myself. Rig up a switch for each one...solenoid ground -> switch -> ground. Flipping that switch would activate the solenoid myself. I'd want to control A) the air charge (tank to system) struts solenoids (to fill each strut individually) and C) air discharge. By opening air charge and FR strut solenoid that strut would fill and raise. By opening FR strut solenoid and air discharge the strut would empty and lower. I'd prefer to not have the flashing "error" on the dash...and hopefully disconnecting all the height sensor plugs would prevent that. And by only inturrpting those lines the rest of the system (ie the air compressor filling the air tank, etc) should remain functioning as normal.

Yeah...saw your reply, and this is what I was thinking... There are 5 solenoids/valves. One to release air into the "system" from the air tank, and one for each strut. I was thinking about setting up a set of switches in the dash. One "master" button that would open the air tank, then 4 others, one for each strut. All the relays have a +12v constant to them, it's the computer that activates the ground which then activates the solenoid...or at least, that is how I understand it. So all I'd need to do is disconnect the height sensor connectors for each strut at the strut, then rig up my own switchable ground lead and I should be able to open the solenoids whenever I want to add air. Hmmm...but what if I wanted to lower it? I'd need to hook up another switch to control the air discharge valve. But I wouldn't want to "ruin" that switch...'cause hopefully if I leave everything else alone the air compressor should automatically charge the air tank like everything else was "normal". I could try to spoof the height sensors...but that seems a touch overly complex...and this system seems to be able to do pretty much the same thing. Make sense?

I saw a post where someone rigged up manual controls for the solenoids for their air suspension... I tried to search for it but alas, could not find it. Does anyone remember who it was, or could point me to that thread, or...well...has done it and can talk about it?

Ah yes...offset...the destruction of many an RS wheel bearing. When we (the US) first started getting the "better" version of the GC chasis the aftermarket here was pretty weak. So people were tossing on wheels left and right...and with the sensitive offset issue and wheel bearings...people were replacing wheel bearings left and right. Always on the hunt for cheap mods though

Eh...the trip was both good and bad. The place had a ton of cars but very few Scoobs sad to say. I was able to find a coupla GL's (sedan, wagon and hatchback)...all mid 80's. One turbo, most automatic N/A. One 4WD. NONE with air suspension though, so that part of the quest failed But I was able to get two perfect (and I mean perfect) front headlights, a brand new coil, and a buncha lil interior stuff (mainly the HVAC buttons) and a new corner light for a grand total of ~$53...NICE! One thing that made me NUTS though was I found 3 wheels...the flat spoked (7 maybe?) on a hatchback (13 inchers). Only 3 though...with a "regular" 1. Argh! I shoulda just picked up the 3 and hunted down a 4th somewhere...oh well, I can always go back. No good bumpers, no air struts, but a buncha other stuff including the headlights that I desperately needed. I think I'm just going to rig up a manual air computer on the dash somewhere and call it a day

I'm gonna hit up the Oakland place first...then San Jose if they don't have what I need. If they've got decent inventories I'll post up what I found here for others future reference. I gotta stop babbling and just get the hell outta here! I've got my list tools I'll need...just one quick pit stop and I'll have all my gear. WOOT! This machine is going to be on the road FRIDAY. I can't wait

Now THAT'S what I'm talking about! Awesome...simply awesome. Gonna bring the 2 foot cheater bar too Ya never know sometimes...

Woot! Found what looks like a great pick-and-pull type place...same one that NV Zeno mentioned. It's funny...but the internet is almost a handicap sometimes! I was struggling with google searches for "junkyard" or "auto salvage" for the Bay Area...then I realized...Hey! I've got a phone book! Analog search here I come. So I'm grabbing my coveralls, going to head over to the 'rents house to take a quick gander at bolt sizes, put myself together a big box 'o tools, and gonna do some hunting! Mmmmm....junkyards. SO much fun. Thanks for all your help folks. I really appreciate it. Having come from www.NASIOC.com (way back in the day when it was still I-Club), it seems that no matter where I go the Subaru community freaking rocks. Thanks!

I live in Walnut Creek (right where 24 and 680 meet)...and for whatever reason I've had extreme dificulty finding local auto yards. San Jose would actually be a bit closer than going to Rancho Cordova near Sac... I'm going to PM/email you to see if you can remember the locations/names/anything about these other places...I'll go right now! JY shopping is MUCH more fun than those fancy Boutiques...you are absolutely right. I remember one year, for a friends B-day, I went to a pick-and-pull place and grabbed random stuff off a 928 S4...put 'em on a box, gave 'em to a friend with a note explaining "Porsche 928 kit! Some assembly required. May need additional parts." It was a HIT. But whatever it comes down to...I need to have those parts TODAY actually. Crap!

In regards to pulling parts...I have no problem doing that with headlights, bumper, etc. But with the suspension...unless I can "test" it to make sure it works, it's a bit of a gamble. At least these ones are warrantied, albeit a short time. Crap...I really need to get this machine on the road...and since I usually work 6-7 days a week...to make a long story short...I'm getting promoted at work so my sched this week has given me two full days off, plus the majority of another day. After this week...I will be a rock solid 7 days working. Sadly it comes down to the price of time. I'm going to putter around here for a bit longer and see if there is any way I can get these parts (mainly the struts...I can hold off on the headlights as long as I don't drive at night!)...if I can get these struts HERE by Thursday day for cheaper...I'm going to have to pay the cost of convience here

It's a bit of a tough pill to swallow for a car I bought for $500. I've got a mild mental budget for getting it up and running to my liking, and these purchases would take a fairly large chunk out of said budget. But on the other hand...I did pay next to nothing for the car, and with these parts everything that "needs" to be replaced will be. With the exception of some other small change minor work, the car will be fully functional and driveable. And since I NEED to have a working car here...it may be worth the cost of parts to get them ASAP.

There is a auto yard that has the parts I need for my '86 GL-10, but having never bought stuff for this car before, I'm not quite sure if these are good prices... Front air-suspension struts (with 60 day warranty)- $125 ea. Front headlight assemblies (complete)- $50 ea. Front bumper (in perfect shape)- $125 These prices are for "pulled" pieces in perfect "used" condition. The place is a lil over an hour away, so there would be no shipping cost. Any thoughts? I can go without the bumper honestly, it's just bent a little...but I need the passenger headlight for sure (the lens is missing a huge chunk) and the passenger side air strut (the height sensor isn't working)...and probably the drivers side strut as well.

Honestly, that would be pretty huge. They truly make a monster difference in the handling dynamics of cars that either/and A) have the strut top mounts in the engine bay far from the firewall and are older more mileage flexable chasis. As long as whomever makes 'em doesn't charge an arm and a leg...they are one of the best mods for a car, period. And on "our" cars...they would be huge. One thing to take into consideration though would be those installing top mount intercoolers or...GASP...actually leaving the spare tire in the engine bay

Hmmmm...that wouldn't be hard to find I think. And as long as I'm not getting some insane Cusco carbon fiber stick, it shouldn't be too expensive either! And yeah, a 3 point bar would be MUCH better...but the odds of someone making 'em for us is pretty remote. I had a 40mm bar, and it was fantastic. Probably biggest "night and day" difference with it's installation out of anything.

Granted I really ought to do a search for this...but instead I'm gonna post up and look at what happened when I wake up tomorrow...woot! Anyway, the top front strut mounts are pretty darn far from the firewall, and when I put a strut brace on my prior car it made an INSANE difference with turn in and responsiveness. Seriously...turn in was increase to an amazing level. So does anyone make a front strut tower brace for a...say...'86 GL-10 4WD? I'd have no issues with welding one in if A) I could weld! and if I planned on never taking the motor out.

Coming from the "modern" Subaru camp...in my mind this is how it breaks down... AWD = center LSD (for front and rear difs, either locked or LSD). In other words, good for on road and "decent" for mild off road. Can be electronic (ie Sti), liquid (ie 2.5RS) or torsen (ie Audi)...or something altogether different. 4WD = locked center dif, no slip at all between front and rear (again, front and rear difs can be open, LSD or locked). Better for pure off road (especially with lockable front and/or rear difs). Using a "locked" or no-slip dif means bad news for the road. Granted you can drive like that...but ever tried to turn a car with a locked dif...especially a locked front dif? Not happy at all. Around an arc two wheels would much prefer to spin at different speeds! But this appears to have cleaned it all up. The GL-10 4WD is a "true" 4WD, no slipage at all, with open front and rear difs (unlike RX which is rear LSD...wonder if it is 1 way, 1.5 way or two way...probably one like the RS). Coolness.

So it's a locked center dif in 4WD? 50/50 split front and rear with no LSD? Just want to make absolute sure

That is the EXACT same as the RS reset...funny. I'm gonna let it sit overnight with the battery off...tomorrow morning change oil and plugs, and let 'er rip! And yes...a vac line was diconnected...I was too focused on the suspension. Oops!

Well...after working on the "getting it happy again" issue for a bit, I of course had to leap right into "make it faster"...and with a cone type air fliter and an inexpensive MAF adapter...one cold air intake! Well...not cold air YET but at least low restriction. However, there is one problem...the car will NOT idle. I can start it up and by leaning on the gas revs build nicely...but off gas it drops to very low revs, tries to stay, but dies. When I did a similar setup on my 2.5RS I had no issues at all. I suppose I could advance the timing to bring that idle up smooth again... With the RS it was just a matter of "resetting the ECU" via unhooking the battery, letting the ECU "forget" everything, then restarting and having the ECU re-learn with the higher flow intake. So I tried doing the same thing here...and no effect, still no idle. Has anyone else had an issue with a less restrictive intake and not being able to idle?

SUCCESS!!!! Disconnected the height sensor on the drivers side front strut...the one that was closest to the "accident". Light still stays on...so I'm bummed, thinking it'll be something else. I think about quitting for the night...but hey, I can probably pull the plastic mud guard enough to get at that passenger front connection...pull it...turn on car, compressor kicks on! Light on dash goes away! WOO HOO! Plug drivers side back in...and light stays off, compressor still runs...AWESOME. Well, mildly awesome. Looks like I'll need to source myself a passenger side front strut. But hey, at least I know it should work! There is one remaining "issue" though. I still want to check all the air lines and make sure there are no leaks...that compressor was running quite a while and I hate the idea of burning it out as it tries to fill bags that have leaks Thanks again everyone!

Well by bypassing the compressor relay I was able to get the compressor to kick on. By bypassing the two front strut solenoids I was able to make 'em click open. When I first start the car I can hear the compressor kick on briefly. The air lines are in tact. However, the bags are still not inflaiting. The good news is that there are two PDF files that are EXTREMELY useful here... http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/AirSuspenFall01.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/AirSuspSumm01.pdf One explains the whole system, the other goes through diagnostic testing. It looks like Turbone is probably going to be right. The compressor works, the solenoids work. And the blinking light on the dash indicates that the "control unit is getting an impossible signal from the reed switches in one or more of the struts". What I need to do is isolate that as an issue. That means disconecting the height sensors in each strut one by one...turn off car, disconnect from first strut, turn on car. If light doesn't blink, that strut is bad. If light still blinks...turn off car, disconnect from second strut, turn on car. Rinse and repeat. The "bump" didn't do a lot of damage to the car...just bent the bumper in and broke the blinker light housing. But...it could have been strong enough to damage that reed sensor. We shall see! And yes, it this is a complicated system, but it isn't impossible to understand...thankfully!

I went through all the "air suspension" threads here...and on the XT6 board...and copied all the relvant info into one document. 10 pages with 2 diagrams! Yow. I'm going to go through the whole system check each component as I go. Compressor, solenoids, lines, struts, and computer. I'm going to pull each strut out and clean 'em, replace all the o-rings (and grease them!) and we shall see what happens. Damn I wish I didn't have to work today! Oh well... Thanks again everyone here...I'll post up what happens.

Holy CARP! I found the relay...it was totally covered in goo underneath where the wires run into it. I bridged the two thick wire and low and behold, the compressor went on! That is a good sign I hope.... I'm now searching through your posts to see what other info I can gleam. LOL, I'm starting to miss my Leda coilovers from my RS Oh yeah....THANKS!

Argh!! I was hoping it wouldn't end up being an "inside the strut" kinda fix. Looks like my new toy is gonna be sitting in the driveway a bit longer. I just wonder if it is going to be worth doing all this troubleshooting to get a rather complicated (but cool) system working...or just swap "normal" suspension in. Looks like it's gonna be a big 'ol junkyard run!