Tachometer

I too miss the older SCC days. I remember when the USCC was full of cobbled together machines that usually blew up before the end of testing. Now it's these huge power monsters that are beyond 90% of the normal human tuner population. It's funny how Shiv's articles stopped appearing too I wonder what happened to his RS...and his RX-7. Kevin...you are the guy with that white OBS with black racing stripes, right? Weren't you in that group that had that meet with the 22B? Man...talk about old school hotness. PS: I'm dcrawford on I-club...er...NASIOC...whatever.

Maybe I'll dug up an older issue of Sport Compact Car...but they took a 200X 4WD ranger with the 4.0L V6 and took it to a bunch of different dynos to test the difference in RWD mode vs 4WD mode... From what I recall there was a difference in the readings...I just don't recall all the details. They may still have the article on their website...checking... Eh, they don't seem to have it up on their site. If anyone is really interested I'll dig up the issue and post some info here.

I remember back in the day when Sport Compact Car had their Project 2.5RS. They eventually turbocharged it and had a PILE of various piggyback computers keeping everything happy. I knew the guy who owned the car (he now runs Vishnu) and they had endless trouble trying to control everything with all those various computers. FCD, S-AFC, knockguard sensor, EDC, electronic boost controller, etc etc. Eventually they went with a TEC-II (funny...Shiv sells/sold those through Vishnu...hmmm!). It was an awesome machine that worked amazingly well. Now with the TEC-III you can tune even better. I've heard of that Greddy emanage and it sounds like a great solution for these kind of problems. A TEC-III would definitely be overkill...but mad could you do some wicked tuning. Great explanation Do It Sidewayz, that made total sense. That S-AFC is really popular for tuners probably 'cause it looks so cool but if air/fuel is your specific issue...then it is the perfect device. In some ways all this complicated electronic trickery makes me yearn for the days of carbs...but then I sober up

I was afraid that no one "made" them anymore. I'll see what he's got...thanks

True...it isn't a real complaint Maybe I'll head over again Saturday...ya never know

Well, the pushbutton 4WD car would have a locked center dif...which I suppose isn't really a differental (sp?) because there will be no speed difference between the shafts on either side. But I'm just being picky.

My old '86 GL-10's stickers on the side (rear doors, below the trim) have nearly completely faded away...barely can see 'em anymore. Does anyone know where I can get replacement stickers? Thanks in advance

If your car is AWD (in other words, power being sent to all 4 wheels at the same time) then you'll want to have the same size tires for all 4 wheels (with some exceptions). My Impreza had a viscous center dif and was AWD...and if there was a constant speed difference between front and rear wheels I'd "burn out" my center dif. That's why you don't tow those kind of cars with two wheels up and two wheels down. But it also depends on what sort of dif you've got. If your car is push button 4WD...then you can have different sized tires front vs rear...under certain circumstances. When you are just in FWD mode then it's no big deal, different sized tires won't matter. If you are in 4WD mode... -on dry pavement...you better have the same sized tires otherwise you could damage the dif -on wet ground/rocks/snow/slippery....then it's OK. If the tires can slip a bit then that slippage will prevent forcing your dif to do something it doesn't want to and hurt itself. Now some AWD cars do have different sized tires front vs rear...I believe the Porsche Carerra 4 does...but its center dif is designed with that in mind. It all depends on what type of difs you've got (torsen, viscous, open, etc) and how they were designed. But to be safe...use the same size

So I went to the pick-and-pull again this Saturday...hoping to find some various lil things to grab for the '86 GL-10. Last time I was there they had a coupla ones of various years...so I figured I'd be able to at least grab a couple items. Mind you roughly 1.5 - 2 weeks had passed... NONE of the Subaru's were there anymore! Not a single one! In fact, it seems that their entire Japanese car inventory was different. I was pretty blown away. I did find a much older Subaru (had big round headlights and a huge grill) that was pretty thrashed...a Loyale that didn't have much left to it...and an XT6 that was nearly complete. I was tempted to nab the wheels but honestly, I don't like the way they look. Sorry folks. I headed over to the European section to see if any Peugeots had shown up...and yep, there were two! Woo hoo...new wheels for my car! One had "decent" looking 14 inchers...but only 3 of 'em. Damnit! The second had AWESOME 14 inchers...BUT ONLY 3 OF 'EM! DAMN damnit! So I left with an new antenna for my parents Taurus and two mounting clips for my front grill that oddly were missing from my car. I guess this is both good news/bad news. Good news 'cause perhaps the inventory changes often. Bad news 'cause I am going to have to go more often!

That "setup" price is going to be a common problem for engines that don't have the aftermarket support of an EJ20T or B18C1...companies like ARP (or AEM, Greddy, Neuspeed, etc) just hasn't gotten around to making stuff for our cars because there has been no demand. So we are relegated to Home Depot, DIY and custom fabrication that just don't quite get the reliability/performance/cost benifit that others get. We will never see the aftermarket support that those more popular engines get...but without having someone pull the trigger on something like this, we'll never even take steps forward. Having said all that...I can't afford to buy head studs for that price. Bring it down SEVERAL hundred and I'd be into the idea. It's just like using www.emachineshop.com Have 'em build one thing and it'll cost an arm and a leg. Have 'em build 1,000...and each is super cheap.

Cusco probably makes some hyper expensive shifter bushings that would most probably be nearly impossible to find...but I doubt it. Pull out a stock one, take extensive measurments and have www.emachineshop.com make you a new set out of some harder rubber!

ah HA! Beauty.

Sure you can... When I installed my turbo gauge...right after, when I was very first testing I sat in the car, put it in neutral, and leaned onto the gas. Granted boost didn't build until much higher revs but it was there. I'm not EXACTLY sure...but this is a guess. Ever tried walking a dog? Let go of the leash and off it goes running. Hold the leash and he'll pull against it...building power. I'm guessing the engine needs that sort of "resistance" to really build exhaust flow. Like I said...guessing here.

Yep. Tiny! Good to know though...I guess!

What are the specs for the stock turbo for the EA82T? I'm looking for the make, name, compressor trim, turbine trim, housing sizes, etc etc.... Woot! Thanks in advance.

Ow...ok, maybe eMachine Shop isn't that hot. Well...if you needed a bunch of something it would! I made a simple 4 inch square piece of 6061 Aluminum, 0.047 in thick, with 2 1.250 in holes in it and had it annodized blue. Cost for one? $130+ Cost for 10 of 'em? $140+ Hmmm...maybe. I'll have to fiddle more.

Whoa...was just sorta surfing around and found this place, and it's AWESOME! You download CAD software, design a part...choose a material to have it made out of (ie grades of Aluminum, Stainless Steel, Titanium...even ABS or wood or cardboard!)...and it prices it automatically...whoa! Sure it's a bit pricey but wow I could think of a million uses!! http://www.emachineshop.com/ Also...McMaster Carr was a great source for some other kinda useful things (like those DAMN 4mm o-rings!) http://www.mcmaster.com/ Woot!

Oh man I woulda LOVED to have had that front bumper!!

One thing I am curious about is the flow rate of the stock injectors... Sounds like the stock fuel pump is up to snuff for some minor increases in boost pressure. The fuel delivery system though...hmmm... The pressure is there but can the injectors handle it? So does anyone know our injector specs? Perhaps there is a car out there with same size (fit wise) and impedance that our ECUs could handle yet would allow a higher flow rate.

Well, I was able to accomplish something! Phase One: Find Air Suspension ECU and figure out which wire is what...that was a bit of a pain but after seeing the wiring diagram turns out I had identified nearly all the correct wires. I cut two wires...the "Air Charge" wire (which opens the solenoid that runs air into the system from the tank) and the "Front Passenger" strut solenoid (that was the one that wasn't working...bad height sensor). I can take those two wires and ground 'em...and low and behold, the strut rises! Woo hoo! The computer still controls the rest of the struts...but cannot open the "Air Charge" valve on it's own...which is a lil scary right now. But no error messages, everything still works as it should. Now it's just a matter of cutting the rest of the solenoids, rigging up switches...and off I go! I'm still a lil worried about lowering...I know which wire will open the "Air Discharge" solenoid...well, we shall see... Awesome...simply awesome!

As I've been working on this beast I've come across a lot of old hoses that are in dire need of replacment. I even had one pretty much shatter in my hand as I was pulling it off...yow! Anyway, where is a good place to get replacement hoses for the engine bay?

Oh MAN! I am soooooo close to getting it all figured out! I was able to isolate several of the circuts I needed...and could manually raise the FR strut with a simple ground setup. I'm still struggling a bit here though, a couple lil minor issues. I REALLY and desperately need the ECU pin outs diagram for the air suspension computer. I was able to "trial and error" test and find several of the ones I wanted, but am still missing a bunch of 'em. Doh! Dang Haynes manual doesn't have 'em...just engine ECU. And yes...it is still rather annoyingly complicated, but not inansely though. Woot! Soon...VERY soon.

I'm working on a "project" of sorts for my air suspension...and NEARLY have it nailed down now. I was able to isolate several of the circuts I wanted but sadly couldn't quite figure 'em all out. I went through the system grounding the various lines and was able to isolate/activate all 4 strut solenoids, the compressor, and a coupla other things...but... I really don't want to go too hit or miss on this. I REALLY hope this won't be too different from one to another, but if I can get the ECU pin outs for a 1986 GL-10 air suspension ECU (not engine, just air suspension) I would REALLY appreciate it! Sadly the Haynes manual does not have it...just ECU Thanks!

One crazy thing I was thinking about doing was using a car stereo graphic equalizer to control the height on each corner...so I'd have sliders to adjust ride height But that would be pretty damn complex to do. I'm going to try this "manual" solution first. In fact, I'll be testing out my ideas tomorrow and will let you folks know either late Friday or early Saturday. And the car should automatically do that compressor recharge. The system "wants" to fill the struts off the air tank, not the compressor. The compressor only kicks on when there is detected low pressure in the tank. The stock computer pretty much already does that...sadly my method will be defeating the automatic filling of the struts, but the automatic filling of the air tank should still work... ...unless I'm not quite sure what you are getting at

Air/Air IC means that the compressed (turbocharged) air going through the intercooler is being cooled by air running around the intecooler...like the radiator on the front of your car. These types of intercoolers are the most common by a LONG shot...like 90% are air/air. They are extremely simple, easy to install and as long as you've got good airflow over that core...pretty efficient. Too big an intercooler will result in boost loss though. The key is to get air flowing over them, otherwise they aren't that useful. Air/Water IC means that the compressed (turbocharged) air going through the intercooler is being cooled by water running around the intercooler...like a...well...like your engine!. Air/water intercoolers are pretty rare...usually only in custom and/or aftermarket applications. They are much more complex than air/air but can be used when you are space limited (there are more components but you can spread 'em out) and can be extremely efficient if done properly. All modern motors are cooled by water (radiator fluid)...older Porsche's and VW's are cooled by air running around the motor only. Some bikes are air cooled too. Your Subaru is liquid cooled. The car's computer may be getting "used" to the new higher flow of the now more open air filter you put on it. That may be causing that "hiccup" you are talking about...but I can't say for sure 'cause I don't know much about your cars ECU.