ilvbugs

***Update*** Issue resolved. Suspected a bad fuel pump, pulled the pump and previous owner had installed an incorrect fuel pump and hacked up the fuel pump wiring harness to make it work. When I ran the part #, listed application was for a Ford E-150 van. A trip to the boneyard for a complete fuel pump sending unit fixed the problem.

It always stalls after turning a corner, in every instance that I can recall it was always a right hand turn. Going to run the diagnostic again to see if any codes have popped up.

Hi everybody, I've got a stalling issue with my 92 Legacy and I'm hoping one of the gurus here can help me figure out what's causing it. A few days ago my car started stalling, when I got home I ran the diagnostic and the CEL kicked out code 11-Crank Sensor. I installed a new crank sensor, cleared the codes and drove it again...still stalling. I ran both diagnostics using the black and the green wires under the dash again, no codes are popping up. About a month ago, I had codes for the coolant temp sensor, cam sensor and throttle sensor, I replaced all those sensors with new ones and it ran fine until this new issue popped up. My fuel filter, plugs, wires and timing belt have all been replaced within the last 1000 miles. Any ideas? Thanks in advance for the help! Mike

Just scored an NOS Throttle Position Sensor on Ebay for $22 shipped...looks like I'll be waiting for a few days to replace it.

Disconnected the battery last night to reset the ECU. When I got home today I followed the procedure in the link provided by Heartless, with the black wires connected the CEL flashed code 31- Throttle Position Sensor...this was the only code that came up. I tried to do the other diagnostic with the green wires but my car stalled about a 1/2 block from home and I didn't get a chance to finish it. So it looks like I'll be switching out the TPS tomorrow. I know that there is a calibration that has to be done, can someone provide me with the details? I'm not very good at using a multi-tester so if you could be very specific about what setting to select and what readings I should be receiving I'd appreciate it. Also, the terminology will mean nothing to me, so please keep it simple. Thanks again!

Heartless, Thanks for the link, I was under the impression that those wires were only used to clear the codes, I didn't realize they could be used to pull the codes. Will give it a shot tomorrow and see what it shows.

Coolant temp sensor was replaced at dealership when I had the codes checked. I'm assuming that the ECU was reset @ that time. I'll try to reset the ECU again since I've changed the cam sensor. The check engine light isn't flashing so I can't tell if there are any new codes, so I'm going by what the dealer told me at this point. I also understand how to read the codes if the CEL is flashing but it's not flashing and I've tried to find another shop that has an OBD1 reader for Subaru but no luck thus far.

987687- Thanks for providing some clarification on the different types of cam sensors used by Subaru. I went to the junkyard this week and bought 2 cam sensors and 2 TPS Sensors (1/2 price sale, got all 4 sensors for under $30). I installed one of the cam sensors, no change, installed the other one, same result. I changed the fuel filter and replaced the cracked inlet hose to rule out a clogged fuel filter. Question 1: Do I need to reset the ECU after installing a sensor? Question 2: Is there a test I can perform on the cam sensor before installing it to ensure that it's good? I've found a test that can be done to check out the TPS, going to do that tomorrow. If that checks out, I'm going to pull the MAF off of my 93 Legacy and see if that does anything, if not I've got a spare fuel pump in the garage. I really appreciate all the help that everyone has provided, this issue is frustrating the hell out of me. I've owned 3 other Legacy's all 200K + mile cars and they've never had an issue like this. The irony is that I bought this car from a 93 yr old lady, who bought it new and had it serviced at the local dealership it's whole life. I was able to get a copy of all the service records when I was there on Monday having the CEL codes pulled and she took really good care of it. It's never had any major problems until now. Anyway, I'd appreciate any suggestions that will help get to the bottom of this. Thanks!

Took the car to the dealer for a diagnostic, they pulled the following codes: 21- Coolant Temp Sensor 13- Cam Angle Sensor 31- Throttle Position Sensor They recommended replacing the Coolant Sensor and then driving it for a few days to see if the issue was resolved, so I had them install one while I was there. I got about 3 miles down the road and the car lost power, pulled over and car started right back up. This happened about 5 times while on the way home, after the first instance I called the dealer and they said to replace the Cam Sensor. I know that the 90-94 Legacy's are compatible but are there any other years that will work? I know that the new sensors are a 2 piece unit; sensor and removable wiring harness vs the old one piece sensor wiring harness. I've heard that some of the Cam Sensors for some of the 95-99 cars will work but I haven't been able to confirm this, the difference in cost is about $100. Anybody have access to an interchange manual?

Coswoll, Check your email, sending you my phone #...I live in Salt Lake and can help you.

Hi, I recently purchased a 92 Legacy, 2.2, FWD automatic with 95K on the odometer. When I got it, I noticed it idled high (1200-1400 rpms) when cold and then once it warmed up it idled around 750-800 rpm's. I installed a new set of plugs and wires, cleaned the throttle body up with some carb cleaner, checked for vacuum leaks (didn't find any) and no change. I also noticed the dreaded crankshaft pulley wobble... pulled the timing covers, replaced the woodruff key, center timing sprocket, front oil seal, timing belt, all the pulleys and put another crankshaft pulley on it...thankfully no damage to the crankshaft. While I was doing all this work I noticed the ignition igniter had a crack in it and replaced it as well. Work was completed last weekend and I still had the same idling issues until I went to start it up Weds. morning, it took me about 5 minutes to fire it up whereas on every previous occasion it would fire up immediately upon turning the key. Once I finally got it started, the check engine light was on....solid light, no flashing...no check engine light before Weds. morning. High idle issue has gone but now it idles rough and is hard to start when cold. Any ideas? I don't want to start replacing sensors or other parts at random hoping to fix the problem. Any help that the forum could provide would be greatly appreciated! Mike