provin1327

Horn works, brakes work. I have tried with brake pedal and without. I feel like anyone at the deslership will just have the same unknown problems as me. Maybe I will stop by tomorrow

The car not going into reprogramming mode has nothing to do with the remote. If I was hearing the first horn beep, reprogramming, and it wasn't working then I would know its the remote... I gave it another go, this time I armed the security system from inside by locking the doors. The light blinks like normal so I know its not in valet mode. I turned the key and the system went off. I cycled the key 3 times and the system disarmed so I know it can read the key cycles. Then I tried the reprogram steps but still no horn honk, I even kept going after 10 cycles, still nothing.

Remote is good, led lights up Yes the key dings when in the ignition Yes the door indicator works, the light on the dash comes on I do have the alpine system, the car came with the origional owners manual and it lists the reprogramming steps. I have made sure all of doors are unlocked, including the hatch, and all of the doors are closed. I haven't tried in a few days, I feel like I am destroying my ignition with all of these attempts!! Haha next thing I know the key is going to snap off inside there

Yes I have followed the cars101 instructions/link. I have the correct remote, with the grey buttons

I recently purchased a 1999 Legacy and it did not come with a key fob. I bought a used one on Amazon and tried to reprogram it. I followed the instructions found in the owners manual Open and close drivers door Cycle key from "lock" to "on" ten times, ending on lock and leaving the key in Horn will sound, open close door, press any button on fob, remove key from ignition. No matter what I do I can't get it to into programming mode, no horn sound at all. I have tried the ignition cycle slow and fast but it doesn't seem to matter. The horn does work, the security system works (I can arm it with the door lock button from the inside but I have to cycle the ignition 3 times to silence the alarm since I don't have a working fob) and I have tried the entire sequence multiple times with no luck programming the fob. I even tried disconnecting the battery, stepping on the brake pedal, and reconnecting the battery, still nothing. I did a quick google search and found a few threads of people having the same problem. Some of them never fixed it, others said it just worked randomly. Any advice?

Yep it's cable driven. A small plastic piece had broken off of the hot cold blend knob leaving the cable unattached at the knob end. Im not too worried about it for now but I will have to get a new unit at the junk yard

Came to the forum to ask another question and figured I would update this. Only issues I have had 1. The whine I was hearing when I test drove was the center diff and viscus unit. Once it got up to temp it would cause the front wheels to lock up on tight turns. This was because it was binding and acting like a locker. $60 for a new junkyard unit, took a day to install. 2. Drivers window controller just crapped out, easy fix. 3. Rear diff drain plug is close to being rounded, looks like someone tried to remove it with a 1/2" wrench but it actually takes a 13mm drain socket 4. Have yet to re-charge A/C as it is leaking, probably from the schrader valve on the low pressure side. Aside from that it's running good.

Does anyone have experience with the heat/ac blend door? I have a 1996 Impreza and the hot/cold blend knob on the dash does not work. If I want to switch between hot and cold I have to reach down into the passenger footwell and flip the door myself. I can't tell if it's cable driven, works on vacuum, or if there is a relay or fuse somewhere. I've searched and can't find any good information.

So I recharged the system and found a small leak on the low pressure side at the o ring. Now the clutch was engaging but was still blowing hot. I poked under the passenger footwell and pulled the cable that is on the flap, it was blowing over the heater core the whole time. New problem is finding out how to fix that because the heat/ac temp blend knob on the dash doesn't do anything. Is there a fuse or a relay for the motor that controls this?

I believe when I checked for voltage at that 3 wire plug on the input side I didnt have voltage but I will have to check again this weekend. Currently at work and cant test. I will try to update on Sunday, thank you so much for the information so far, wiring is not my strong suit

If I unplug that sensor and jump it and the clutch engages then I know its the sensor. I havent checked any of the relays yet but the fuses are good.

So its possible that power still isnt getting to the compressor even though the switch is flipping between the two AC modes? If I have continuity at the pressure sensor when the Subarubis running and the AC is flipped on doesn't that mean I have pressure in the system? If it was low on freon the pressure sensor would not have continuity right?

So I know the dash switch works because when I switch it frmm AC to Max AC the fan blows much harder. I am hoping its just low freon and has been low for a while which is why there are no visible leaks, going to buy a can and recharge it tomorrow

Well I feel dumb, the fans are just doing a self test, everything is fine there. As far as the AC goes I am not getting voltage to the AC but I jumped the clutch and it does engauge. I do have continuity at the pressure sensor so I know it is not the sensor that is shutting off the system

Im not seeing any leaks or fluid anywhere.

1996 Impreza 2.2L 5 speed. The A/C has not worked since I bought it, it just blows warm air. I took a look under the hood and noticed the clutch is not engaging. I pulled the fuses and relays and they look fine. Will the compressor not turn on if it is low on freon in an effort to protect from damage? I pulled both the high and low pressure caps off and poked the schrader valves. A bit of gas did leak out so I know there is some stuff in there. I have not gotten the multimeter out to test for voltage. Second question, my fans turn on and off mysteriously when the key is in the "on" position. Not sure where to start with this at all. The fans seem to be running properly under normal driving conditions. Here is a video showing the wonky fans https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KxbEZR-n0oU

So I have a 1996 Impreza outback 2.2L 5 speed with 180,000 miles. Due to the previous owner not maintaining the fluids and running the transmission low on gear oil, the center differential is going bad and is binding up on tight turns after it is hot. Because of this I am no stranger to loud and clunky diffs when it comes to this Subaru. I am waiting for the weather to warm up to replace the center diff but I think I have a new problem in the rear. I drove home from work today and noticed a new whining/jumping noise on deceleration, keep in mind this happened before the gears were hot at all, I could hear it when leaving the parking lot. I have been hearing a gear whine since I purchased the Subaru about 4 months ago but this new noise is much louder. I am not sure if it's the center diff that is making all this noise or that maybe the rear diff and center diff are both going bad with the center diff locking up and the rear diff making all this noise. The noise is at its worst around 40 mph and then at highway speeds. It's also loud when in neutral or decelerating while in gear with a spike in noise around 40 mph. I also went to check the rear diff fluid and could not get the fill plug broke lose. It looks like it's a bit stripped or that the previous owner had the same problem and messed up the plug a bit. Fortunately for me I did not remove the drain plug before the fill plug. So that little piece of evidence also has me worried about the rear diff and if there is even any fluid in there . I need advice as to what to look for or if I can test anything on the Subaru to confirm where this noise is coming from. It sorta sounds like it's coming from the rear but I can never be sure with noises resonating through the drivetrain and cab. Should I jack up the rear end and turn a wheel by hand and listen? Could it be a bearing in the rear end that is going bad? I am guessing it is gears because it seems to be directly related to throttle and coasting, i.e the drive or coast side of the gears may be messed up, warped, etc. I have already pulled a center diff from the junk yard but I am considering making another trip to the junk yard for a new rear diff. Any advice on this? What about gearing, I don't want to pull a junkyard diff and have it be the wrong gear ratio. I can't find much info on replacing the actual differential, lots of videos on replacing fluid . Is this a time consuming job?

Yes all the fuses look good

There is one relay and one big plastic coverish thing that I cant seem to pull out

There is no abs light that lights up on the dash with key on

All the fuses look ok, anyy ideas on what to test first?

I tried it on some snow, locked up pretty quick, going to check the fuse box first

Correct me if I'm wrong but with ABS I should never really be able to lock up the brakes, or I should at least hear it buzzing. I looked just behind the passenger side light and saw the ABS unit under the hood but when I drive my 1996 Impreza I never feel the abs kick in and I can lock up the brakes. Am I missing something or is something busted somewhere? There are no abs or check engine lights on in the dash, is there a fuse or relay somewhere that I can check?

So after my last post the rough idle came back, but it looks like the PCV valve replacement has fixed it. That or it was a combo of the PCV, new fuel fitlter, and Seafoam that fixed it hah

Idle was smoother this morning so maybe the seafoam helped, it still feels a little rough but not as sporatic. Didn't realize the pcv was only 6$ lol, ill change it and report back