Dave804

I hate feeling like I'm hijacking, but it may help the OP too- any quick tips for identifying an OEM vs. AM axle on a vehicle? Quite a few subarus in the yards around me... Hahaha look at it this way- maybe your first heater core is good, so you can end up with one functional sub.

How much coolant did you add? Bleeding until the fans come on shouldn't be good enough. Nose inclined, heat on full blast, car idling keep adding ad nauseam.

Be careful pulling the batt cables on a modern car. Once running the battery is the bank to absorb any overage in voltage. All it takes is once instance of a surge killing your ECU to learn. Don't ask how I know haha. Also another vote for the alt. Seems like your VR is working if you get variance based on load. At least the alternator is up there on top! I'd rather get a new car than change a water cooled BMW alt. in this weather lol.

How well was the coolant bled after the hg swap?

Never realized I was lucky to have coolant recycling here. Call some auto wreckers in your area. There's still some very active pic a part places around here. They all sell recycled coolant. Basically shipped off, cleaned, bottled, shipped back and sold to cheapskates. Alternatively, slightly dilute green antifreeze at a constant VERY low temp in a crock pot can be used to clean buildup off of metal.

It looks like a 95 Legacy should be obd2. If not this video should help: If it's -2 I'm betting you'll pull a P0111/2/3 http://www.troublecodes.net/subaru/ The sensor should be that orange/brown two wire. The obd2 connector should be right above or below the hood latch, possibly under a little cover.

Welcome aboard, man. What diesels have you owned? Temp related no start these three things came to mind: Trash in fuel lines/lost pressure Failing electrical connection Gasket/vacuum issues. Will the car catch with some starting fluid down the throttle before you crank? How do the neg/pos battery and ground cables look? Any CEL codes? This cold snap is a pita on us good coasters for sure. It was 5* down here in Va this morning. Nothing like trying to adjust timing on your old Ford truck so you can make it to an 8am lecture haha. Times like these I really miss my w123/4

Didn't see any info on your model- but run in to this a couple times with my mother's 04 4banger. As stated above, tightening clamps and checking connections did the trick once. Second time I took a couple of the supply rubber lines off and when you bend them against their natural lay the cracks are very visible. From my experience you'll need to be under the car to deal with this. Alternatively, shouldn't be much at a shop. Retail price on 3/8 fuel hose is about $.83/ft. Maybe an hour of shop labor.

Hey man, right up the road from me! I was actually up at the Virginian when I got the call about mom. She's doing well. Was a weak heart from not dealing with high BP, not bad blockage. So she's gotten a lot stronger. I did replace the pulleys. Went with gates because their bearing races were noticeably thicker. I've bought a few bmw's with busted timing belts. Couldn't imagine doing an inframe on the subbie motor lol. Good to know on the tps. If this weather ever passes I'll check at the ecu. Will look at the oxy wiring. Pretty sure the wind up is just in D. It is an auto- I'll check on the idle in park tomorrow. The pulley had eaten most of the way through it's bracket and positioning bolt, so I just pulled a complete unit from a wreck with 80k on it. Wouldn't surprise me that it just burst like that- the car set for about 2 months while she was laid up.

I think you're found your area. Just be glad the power (I'm assuming) seats still work. I'd rather go through a divorce than try to remove dead power seats with a drill battery again hahaha.

That's a pretty big time between blows. Has to be some correlation. Like you said, is a non-regular driver moving the seat?

For the laughs: Here is the factory timing belt that had 145k on it. Looked much better than I expected, especially considering all of the in town and stop/go mom does. A few weeks ago the women folk took the car xmas shopping. My sister reported that "The car is making hamster noises" I didn't know wether to laugh or cry when I opened the hood. The sliding bolt for the AC pulley broke, leaving the pulley and belt riding against the timing cover.

A rudimentary, but effective, way to test would be pulling those components one at a time and see if any of them stop the blowing- then you'd have your shorted branch to chase.

Most of the time I hear people complain about sea foam it's for one of two reasons: They add it WAY too fast and lock the engine, or don't have enough buildup for it to be worthwhile. I'm a fan of using the vac line off the brake booster to add sea foam. Done this on 5 or 6 different brands of vehicles. It's large, easy to get to, and has a pretty consistent/strong vacuum at idle. Plus there's room to work. I usually add it to the vac first. Just tilt the can to about an 80* angle and hold the brake line up to it- that'll be enough suction to pull it out of the can without having to pour it in. I wonder if the IAT port on a subbie air box would be enough to add it- if you help the throttle plate open slightly by hand...

Afternoon, guys! I'm glad I found this board. It didn't show up as frequently as some of the others in searching, but the amount of traffic and technical info are great. Hopefully I'll be able to add to it. Anyway, mom's DD Outback has recently become my charge. 2004 ej25 base, 153k miles, she's the original owner. Here's what's been replaced: Both front CV's Plug Wires A/C system I replaced the plugs and timing belt this summer at 145k. I'll put up pics of that later. The car has a rumble at idle. There isn't a fluctuation in the needle, but it slowly builds like you're dragging a table across linoleum. It shakes the whole car, then goes immediately to a smooth idle. The whole process takes about 20 seconds. I've heard some theories about bad front shafts causing this. The car does have a clicking when turning low speed to either direction. I'm leaning towards this being a TPS issue. Here's where my question comes in- what % should the TP be at when idling. The weather is terrible and I'm getting over the flu, so I haven't pulled the ECU to check voltages- I'm just reading via the obd port. I'm getting 4.7-5.5% at idle, 89% at WOT. The furthest back I can adjust the TPS is to 1.6% at idle. When I did that I threw a P0122 and AT code 31. There were a few stores codes. P0032 P0113 P1512 P1514 P0464. The only one that comes back is the P0032. It happens as soon as you start the car, and the readings from it are pretty hilarious. I ordered a replacement Denso. Here's the rest of the OBD data I read: RPM: 687 to 700 flits back and forth Spark adv: 13* TP%: 4.7 MAF G/S: 2.69 IAT: 28C ECT: 90C Load %: 1.6 MAP: 25kpa 02B1S2: .06v 02B1S1: 2.156v EQ_RATB1S1: .999 The long and short fuel trims are both at 0.0. Anyone have any insight, I'd greatly appreciate it. Mom had a heart attack and has cataract surgery coming up in a month. So I have some time to play with, but it'd be nice to hand it back over to her running, and running well. -Dave