LovemyGLWGN
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Posts posted by LovemyGLWGN
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Thanks for this topic, potter2010. I too am considering just replacing my '88 Loyale for a minute, as it recently developed some mysterious engine problem... (to keep it short), and am looking on here for ideas, recommendations, thoughts. May need to post my own search, though, as to not interfere with yours!
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The price haggling phone call is used car salesman antics. It is priced way too high for a automatic. Bring out the KBB value for him.
They smell a sucker. Don't be that sucker.
Tell them you are a struggling student, your kid is sick and needs an operation, your dying mother want to see the mountain top one more time before she is gone. See how this works?
I love Loyales, I really do. But they aren't worth that much in resale especially the automatic. Have you driven that car at highway speeds? Do a test drive trying to hit 65 or 70 in 3rd gear which is the highest gear on the automatic.
Did you crawl under it to see if the axle boots are broken? Turn on the heater for a while and then the ac at least 10 min each to be sure there is no mouse piss in the hvac. 60k is the timing belt interval on the engine. Have they been done? If not. You are probably looking to pay a shop 2000 to do it and that is assuming they know Subaru EA82 and that each belt is 180 degrees different. Your $3000 car could top 5k before you can use it as a daily driver.
Not trying to be Mr negative but don't want you to get taken.
On the other hand if you have been taking apart cars since you were in the womb and have oil in your blood and the tools, time and money to fix whatever may arise, go for it.
If you are the type that hires people to wrench on your car and changing a ball joint scares you then this will quickly eat up your limited budget and you will come to hate the car.
Excellent advice! Whine, cry, ... mom is sick, kids need new shoes... try; I borrowed $200.00 more from MoM, but this is all I can put together... and flash the cash.., drop it on the table... , and like everyone here has said, it is an older car, so it's either a love affair or not.
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Just be sure to check the oil pan for metal. May have just killed mine, after all I've put into it... your problem sounds different, but we were chasing similar behavior on mine..
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Thanks to a member here, colemanapp, there is an '89 over by Joplin. complete vehicle, but rusted out pretty bad, the owner said. It is a turbo. How might that wire up with this wiring harness? The owner said that wiring harness has been modified, it appears, a couple of times. The price is right, though, but owner says it misses, and he would recommend we trailer it. They are about 4 hrs. from me.
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There is an engine on ebay... but if I go there, I would want to know it lines up and is viable... here is the link. Also,colemanapp said to try K&M in Columbia, Mo., they had one..
Oh, the link... http://www.ebay.com/itm/331696265023?euid=04ea06ec706d415ab94f121596e20e8d&cp=1&exe=13453&ext=34391&sojTags=exe=exe,ext=ext
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Won't be able to do compression test if crank won't turn.
But, air can be put to the cylinders thru the spark plug holes. Basically a leak down test.
May have to turn cams by hand to insure the valves are closed for each cylinder.
Part that confuses me is, you said it would crank over at first, now crank won't turn.
Maybe, broke t-belt has fouled itself around the crank pulley and has crank bound up. Seen other drive belts do that.
I have been wondering if it could do that... which is why I said 'crank pulley'? above. Problem here right now, is I can't get to it... need A set of wheels, and that won't be until Friday or Monday... we have one '87 Toyota truck still running, and it's been having some problems lately... geez... was going to go for a lift for my Subaru next!! Guess it'll have to wait! Looks like I'll have to 'unretire' myself, and do my own mechanic-ing for awhile. I really want to see what it did, and see if I can fix it, and even if I replace this engine, I want to build this one and sit it here then... assuming it is rebuildable.
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Do a compression test on all of the cylinders, in order to determine if you now have one with a shattered valve. Had you not had the metal in the pan, I would have guessed either the coil or the distributor.
Thanks for that idea! I have a 3-5 day wait for the fuel pump on my '87 Jeep, before I even have transportation again, am sitting home till then! I'll ask him to do that for me.
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That's crazy. I'm assuming it won't crank anymore? Was it in gear when it was pulled? It could have seized during the tow if the engine was turning AND the timing belt was broke because then the oil pump wouldn't have been pumping... Just a thought.
Geez... I'm rather speechless.. can't turn the crank, metal in the pan, and what happened was exactly as I described it happening. The ONLY thing that was odd was just before it quit, honestly felt like a mule team of horses couldn't have pulled it up that hill, for a whole 3-4 seconds before it quit... but no noises, no overheating, nothing.
I did have it over to (a different) mechanic though last month, twice, because it would 'hesitate', no power at starting out lower RPM's. we did a tune-up, but he was picking straws, I believe. I had him test drive it, but he said he couldn't really feel anything, but then, I drive it all the time. I insisted it wasn't right, and he searched more, and came up with a backed out/loose plug. So we did the tune-up, which overall gave it a hair more zip, but hesitation was still there. Was going to take it back next month, as I really couldn't afford any more hunting this month...
I would tend to believe the shop that pulled it off the highway would have put it into neutral, after numerous conversations with them, they are quite savvy- by far not 'garage parts hangers'. I'm just numb right now, and need to get it home and need to look inside that engine.
I'm not a mechanical dummy (girl), but I am old(er), and reached a point where I no longer kept my own tools around for things like pulling tranny's and motors, and quit doing my own brakes, etc., but crap! I knew SOMETHING wasn't right... Crap!
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Hey, moosens, do you have any links to marketplace, for '88 parts, engine? Happy frikken new year is right...
Think my engine just bit it... -
Yes! That is what I had planned for mine, before it just 'crapped out' on me. Height of lift?
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Dave, still going over this thing in my mind, before I see it. My Subaru was towed about 10-12 miles, by the Service Station, by a chain. It is an '88 5 speed, and it has full time 2WD unless it is put into 4x. Could the towing have hurt anything?
We pulled the oil pan, as a quick 'look' into engine, oil pan is full of metal. Will possibly look for a replacement engine, and bring my baby home.. I'll need to tear into it here, as soon as it is warmer than 30* outside! Right now, I am on foot, and my other backup waiting on fuel pump. I want to know what did what! Inquiring minds need to know, and it might save somebody else the same heartache! Guess this topic is closed for now, and will post later this spring when I have torn it down and found out what did what. Thanks for all replies!
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What about a crank pulley?
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A seal couldn't stop the engine. A bearing seize up could, but I've never heard of a bearing seizing without loosing oil or overheat. And it wouldn't have cranked immediately after it quit.
Dave, still going over this thing in my mind, before I see it. My Subaru was towed about 10-12 miles, by the Service Station, by a chain. It is an '88 5 speed, and it has full time 2WD unless it is put into 4x. Could the towing have hurt anything?
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Well, with the distributor side belt off, it won't start.
The other side, it might run really crappy.
I don't know why it would be frozen, without a bunch of other typical severe overheat symptoms.
Me either. NO overheating symptoms... would a front seal, or anything else, like a ??? bearing be able to make it quit?
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Someone needs to explain to me how one one hand, the engine cranks, and on the other, the crankshaft doesn't move.
I have no idea, as there was no symptoms of overheating and no noise. It DID hesitate severely, just before it quit. Felt like a team of horses couldn't make it go 2 feet, for about 4 seconds before it quit. Hmmmm
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maybe engine would crank when it stopped on the roadside, and now in the shop having cooled down (either from operating temp or higher?} wont turn now.
If it was a siezed distributor you fear it must be the other side timing belt that came loose ?
Only once have heard of an EA82 with valves hitting pistons with belt coming off - modified beyond factory that must have been !
Can you confirm that your oil pressure light was working before, did not come on at least until engine stopped, and that engine was quiet right up to stop ?
You are not deaf , and feel you have normal range of hearing ?
Replacing the engine may be cheaper than spending many mechanic hour$ chasing a diagnosis to then find needs replacing.
Did you check your fluids see anything odd ?
Teeeth missing off the belt that was off or loose ?
which belt was loose? that cam turn ?
I can. It was not hot, was absolutely quiet, and I always have my 'antennas' on duty! I am constantly checking all temp readings, oil pressure readings, all of those, constantly. It just happens to be something I glance at and do a quick once over on, constantly... I will know more tomorrow, as to the rest of your questions, and I appreciate what to look for when I get to my car! It also had NO symptoms of overheating, hoses not stretched out..., no steam, will know more omorrow or tuesday, when I see it.
As to paying a mechanic hours to chase around, hunting, I will bring it home and tear it down myself first. He said both cams turn.
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My wagon just dropped me at the side of the road, 2 days ago. Just stopped moving. It would crank, had lights, power, all systems seemed to be OK, but wouldn't restart. I assumed timing belts, as my '92 did what seemed to be the exact same thing to me in 1999, but something else is going on...
Had a local (good) shop pick it up, and we both thought timing belts, but he told me he can't move the crankshaft. He also said one belt was off, but not broken. I am going over on Monday or Tuesday to look at it and find out more, but we're all confused a bit.
I will need to try to determine if it is froze, or if something else is happening. This guy made a slight 'suggestion' that .."maybe I should consider replacing the engine", and I about freaked. We have no idea yet what is going on! Not time to consider a replacement!
Any possible ideas welcomed. Questions going through my mind are: did the crank stopping cause the timing belt to slip off, or was belt loose and something else (dist) is causing problem... Not even sure what to start eliminating as source.
Thanks much, LovemyGLWGN
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Yes, assuming everything is original, there are pressure dampers every where. They are not regulators. There is one built right on an original fuel pump. I've had them rot out and leak. I came up with a mod to remove them and use an extra line Mounted one from a parts car.
That is exactly what happened: it rotted out and began to leak fuel, and it was built onto the original fuel pump. It may be the mod you used that I may end up needed...
thanks.. I'll go see them tonight maybe, and start presenting what I've learned here. THANKS
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I once bought a Loyale with a bad FP relay. It was sold because the mechanics couldn't figure out what the problem was. It took me months to figure it out, as it was intermittent.
Plug the green connectors together under the hood, and turn on the ignition. If the relay is OK, the fuel pump will cycle and will be very obvious. Try a hard wire direct from the battery to the pump to see if this makes it run. If so, crawl under the dash and change the relay.
Thanks! Will test these possibilities before I end up trailering it to another town. The other guy, who is more thorough, is 1 full hour away from me, and that is without pulling a trailered car! I know I had a gas leak, on the pump pressure regulator, by the rear passenger wheel, but I am trying to sort out what may have changed in this wagon, once that was installed... The mechanic who has it now is telling me there are 5 pressure regulators on this, and so, I know he is misinformed somewhere. Wish I had a schematic of this fuel system!
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You have a mechanic on the job and u are in here asking questions ?
Can you put the mechanic on the line ?
On mpfi subes, I think at the fuel pump at rear is a damper thing that could look like a pressure reg, but reg is at the end of a fuel rail - on mpfi - spfi have a pressure reg at the manifold ? Think I had one there on my import stuff. When it is only just running, you need a pressure reading taken to get an idea if it is still a fuel problem.
You have a mechanic on the job and u are in here asking questions ?
Can you put the mechanic on the line ?
No, he is lost as to what to try. I told him I would come here and get ideas, and then ask him if he has tried... (all of your suggestions).. it is possible the lines are switched as to flow, hadn't thought of that, and that is/ can be common... Thanks for thoughts!
He can try simple follow-ups and is generally a fair mechanic for most things, but I think I will trailer the car to another person who is an hour from here, but who would be testing pressure and flow and more... and have the equipment in his shop to do it, too.
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Spfi or carb?
Fuel injected.
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My Subaru is down, and nobody knows what to do to get it back to getting fuel. It started with a hesitant fuel problem, which came down to the fuel pump/pressure regulator located at the passenger real wheel. I ordered the fuel pressure regulator, and when it came in, had a wrong part. The one I needed has the pressure regulator built into the fuel pump. Returned part, and ordered the other one, but it wouldn't hook up, with the wiring harness. The mechanic bypassed clip, hookede it up, but the most it would do is to run briefly, then shut off, repeatedly. My wagon has now been parked, down, for a month nearly, and no clues in sight as to what to do. Can I put an electronic fuel pump in place, or what can be bypassed, or what is this part that is missing? Help!
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After digging into it, found that the problem is a fuel pressure regulator, which also developed a leak there. It is located at the rear passenger wheel. will proceed from here.
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My Loyale, which I finally put on the road less than a month ago, has been going through a million issues, which I fix according to the priority of the problem. But it IS on the road!!!
Current problem is reaching urgent. As I try to recall from the '92 I had, it feels similar. I believe I may either have fuel filter blockage, or injectors plugged.
It now will hesitate fairly severely going up any type of incline, which I can push it through with more gas, but it kinda feels like a plugged fuel filter. Am doing that today or tomorrow, adding injector cleaner, and will see after that if it is resolved or not...
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Hi, howew. Great people here, most helpful and knowledgeable!! A million good topics and threads to look through, too!