Tat2Brat
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Posts posted by Tat2Brat
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Gloyale this is a FWD XT4 not a XT6 and even if they did have the struts I needed for my original equipment it would no longer apply since its now 5 lugged the bottom strut mount is different
Volkswagen super beatle strut inserts have been fitted in EA81/EA82 OE struts put a gland nut on top where you cut it open and viola! it wont go anywhere, and Koni yellow race inserts are made to slide into old sealed struts look them up and see how they work if you care to
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trying to drop my xt a little lower, but first some background.
5 lug swap done on my xt4 fwd. Has impreza everything with a reemed out EA82T control arm to fit EJ ball joint.
things i didnt realize but now do:
-FWD xt4 has the lowest strut subaru ever made (that I know of) so theres no replacement struts and this makes it harder to lower for various reasons.
- impreza struts make it sit wayyy up high. I knew it was gonna make it sit higher but danggggg lowering springs arent gonna make up the difference. i need shorter struts.
-I'm not as smart as i think i am
-I absolutely do not want coilovers unless they are super awesome ones and thats not in my budget.
So hows about this?
1018141450.jpgas you can see the plan so far would be to:
-get strut inserts (such as koni yellows) for the original super short FWD ea82t struts
-Prep original strut for cartridge insert
-Custom fab an EJ bottom strut to steering knuckle mount for the ea82t strut housing
-weld mount onto strut house 1/2 inch up from bottom (giving me half inch drop with losing any strut travel....Maybe? might be thinking about it wrong) still plenty room for the axle
-snag some lowering springs from the local custom coil spring shop dropping it another 1 and a half inches MAXIMUM anything more would be bad for my strut inserts
-throw my new custom strut assemblies on my XT!
also
i was thinking of setting the custom bottom strut mount holes at an
angle, the top hole farther out than the bottom correcting for camber.
Things I'm worried about
- Bottom spring perch hitting top of the tire (I sorta quickly measured it today before work and i think it will be ok)
- Everything else about this theoretical project/my non theoretical life
I could just get a 4x4 XT or XT6 but i'd rather work with what i have
(should of bought the 4x4 version to start with) oh well thats why its a project i suppose
Let's hear your thoughts on this
thanks dudes
stay sharp!
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trying to drop my xt a little lower, but first some background.
5 lug swap done on my xt4 fwd. Has impreza everything with a reemed out EA82T control arm to fit EJ ball joint.
things i didnt realize but now do:
-FWD xt4 has the lowest strut subaru ever made (that I know of) so theres no replacement struts and this makes it harder to lower for various reasons.
- impreza struts make it sit wayyy up high. I knew it was gonna make it sit higher but danggggg lowering springs arent gonna make
up the difference. i need shorter struts.
-I'm not as smart as i think i am
-I absolutely do not want coilovers unless they are super awesome ones and thats not in my budget.
So hows about this?
as you can see the plan so far would be to:
-get strut inserts (such as koni yellows) for the original super short FWD ea82t struts
-Prep original strut for cartridge insert
-Custom fab an EJ bottom strut to steering knuckle mount for the ea82t strut housing
-weld mount onto strut house 1/2 inch up from bottom (giving me half inch drop with losing any strut travel....Maybe? might be thinking about it wrong) still plenty room for the axle
-snag some lowering springs from the local custom coil spring shop dropping it another 1 and a half inches MAXIMUM anything more would be bad for my strut inserts
-throw my new custom strut assemblies on my XT!
also
i was thinking of setting the custom bottom strut mount holes at an
angle, the top hole farther out than the bottom correcting for camber.
Things I'm worried about
- Bottom spring perch hitting top of the tire (I sorta quickly measured it today before work and i think it will be ok)
- Everything else about this theoretical project/my non theoretical life
I could just get a 4x4 XT or XT6 but i'd rather work with what i have
(should of bought the 4x4 version to start with) oh well thats why its a project i suppose
Let's hear your thoughts on this
thanks dudes
stay sharp! -
Hello,
So I'm doing a 5 lug swap on a 1986 subaru XT turbo FWD. I'm almost 100 percent on going with some aftermarket struts and some custom coil springs. I would like to find some cheap springs to chop and size up so i can best estimate how long my springs need to be to put my vehicle as close to the ground as i would like. I can then take this cut spring to my custom spring maker for reference. Heres where my questions come in
A) when the spec sheet seen here
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/71926-spring-specs/
says diameter 130mm is that inner or outer diameter?
any alternative springs that fit and are cheap and easy to find?Not alot of 99+ year legacys around the scrap yards here and almost zero imprezas
dont feel like driving 100 miles for springs im gonna cut up
C) anybody have 99'+ legacy or 93'+ impreza front coil springs I can get for cheap? haha
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yeah both sides have them removed Thanks for the info. I have a few different ea81s so hopefully i dont have to throw one of those together!
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I have an 84 brat with an ea81 under the hood. Just got a new exhaust.
the exhaust flange studs were stripped out. I told him he would have to tap to the next size up.
He tapped the block and removed the spacers.
Is having the exhaust directly against the heads gonna cause me problems down the road?
the exhaust looks and sounds great besides my concerns
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Gonna prime my 83 brat soon. The plan so far....
1) sand it and repair rust (already done)
2) acetone it clean, possibly isopropyl alcohol after that
3) prime it!
4) body filler appropriate places
5) more primer
I was just gonna use the epoxy primers they have now a days cause they are pretty great
but then i was looking at my brat and sanding the rust off and thinking it would be great to have the acidic part of self etching primer
to get any of the surface rust that might be hiding in gaps or wherever (so hard to get it all)
can I body fill over the self etch?
or should i just stick to the epoxy?
I googled it of course but there is alot of different opinions out there thought i'd ask you knowledgeable folks
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Nice ! yeah the parts brat had a canopy on it for its whole life, so the bed is great but the rest is a rust bucket. Then my good brat is rust free except a bit on the bed and a sizeable spot under the rear bumper from where it looks like an old owner backed into something and never repaired it. Now i just need a friend that can weld.
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About time to do the body work on my 83 brat. None of the rust is threatening important structural areas so thats good. I was wondering If i cut big pieces out of my parts brat, can they just be welded in to my good brat by a professional? Hopefully saving me lots of money?
I can't weld and this is my first experience into auto body stuffs. So i dont know if this is a viable option or if there is something obvious that im missing that wont allow this to work. thanks for any advice in advance
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oh and here is this bit of info
Here's how your factory oil pressure gauge should behave on a healthy engine with a properly-sealed oil pump:
Startup: should go to around 45psi at idle, and go as high as 60psi when the revs climb.
Warmed up: Should go to 45psi and pretty much stay there when the revs are up, maybe go a little higher if you get on it.
Warmed up idle: Should sit just above the 0 mark, most likely in the 20psi range.
Sure these gauges aren't completely accurate, but they're much better than any domestic gauges I've seen...-
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I'd get a new oil sending unit before anything. See what that does and go from there. Also not sure but i think an oil pump either works or it doesn't. If your gauge goes up when in gear I would assume your pump works. You can always make sure by taking it out and inspecting. Never bad to replace the O rings and gasket while your at it. Just don't pry on it cause it will crack or break.
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Gitt's spring company in auburn will make you any coil spring you want
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http://i1371.photobucket.com/albums/ag300/ironmaiden861/0520141746a_zps18a8b941.jpg
Ahhhhh Will this work? 1/2 in. tube from air filter to pass. side valve cover
1/2 in. from driver side valve cover to pcv valve with 1/4 in. from that to pass. side
Thinking i might have to go with 3/8 in. instead of 1/4
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so I got the appropriate pcv setup now but something seems strange
I was kinda under the assumption that clean air goes in passenger side valve cover and gets the blow by gasses and out the drivers side cover to pcv
When i disconnect the hoses off the valve covers both are blowing
but shouldnt the passegner side be drawing air in?
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yeah did that too even got my wooden 15 pound gallagher-esque sledge hammer and nothing
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I cant seem to get the cyl. heads off of my spare ea81
I dont want to hurt the heads but its stuck in place
Cant get rocker assembly hard ware off but head bolts are out
Rods are able to wiggle around
tried some different solvents but no go
What gives?
Any suggestions to safely remove the heads
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You can put a catch can in the line before the air filter if you have to. Is your motor high milage?
Hard to say when i got it the guy said it had 150 thousand because the head blew on the original engine and he just swapped in a different ea81
the odometer reads 210 thousand so i dunno but its in pretty decent condition except the exhaust
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is it driver side valve cover to pcv then pass. side cover to carb?
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well i just swapped it so I really didn't put that much thought into it. I have the passenger side valve cover hooked to the air filter on the weber the driver side has a pod filter on the valve cover and the pcv is just hanging out. Just went down to the parts store and got a new PCV gonna throw that on today
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Did a weber swap now im getting oil all the way up the hose that connects the valve cover to the air filter housing
Is this normal? Any fixes?
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Is it ea81? not enough torque on the castle nut will cause excessive wear. Or maybe its not a worn part i've run into a situation that was close to what i see on the video. Parts store gave me a CV that wouldn't press itself into the hub. turns out the bell of the thing was slightly different tried 2 different ones til they got me one that worked and they were all the same part number
hope you get it figured out
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EA71 from understanding have the same diameter pistons as the ea81 but are a little longer giving higher compression ratio that will give you more power
after i put a weber on my 83 brat I took off everything i didnt need and that was that.
For awhile i was toying with the thought of a carbon fiber intake manifold set up with dual weber ICT 34's that would be radical Don't know how it would effect performance but it would sure be a neat trick
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I did for sure get the sender for the gauge and not the light. Got to get a mechanical pressure tester. The gauge was reading correct a few days ago before a valve adjust oil change new sending unit. so its pretty strange. I think I might just need a different brand sending unit
but will check oil pressure with mechanical tester just to make sure
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Just put a new oil pressure switch (the one to the gauge not the kind with the light) and now my oil pressure is way too high.
My old one gave good readings but it was bent and dripping oil from the body (not the threads) like somebody hit it on a rock or something.
Anybody ever have the problem of getting a high reading after installing a new oil sending unit?
just a thought for lowering ea82t FWD opinions please
in Subaru Retrofitting
Posted
Thanks but I've done all the math and all those would make my XT still sit higher than it did originally unless i get coil springs that are 4 inches high effectively cutting the upward travel of even the shortest lowering strut down to unawesome numbers. The reason for that is the front wheel drive version of the xt4 sat lower than the xt6 FWD or 4WD. All those options you mentioned would work but for strut travel,price of future replacement struts (vw rabbit strut inserts are gonna cost half as much as almost any strut for a subaru application plus I have upgrade options of the insert, like bilsteins) , and having the added benefit of feeling like I accomplished something. I think I will try my way first. Possibly wasting tons of money and time. Appreciate your input though. That is what I asked for.
Cheers